LR Freelander Td4 wont start

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RMexia

New Member
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Location
Portugal
Hello guys, happy to be here in this community

Bought a LR Freelander Td4 a few weeks back, its been on a garage for the last 10 years!

But i got an problem, i wont start at all!
With the scanner i only got the following DTCs:
- Maf
- P1195 (HPFP valve)
- P0190 (Rail Valve)

I have replaced:
- Battery
- Old fuel with new fuel
- FP on the tank
- FP on the engine compartment
- Fuel filter
- o-rings on the HP Fuel Pump

I got fuel at the entry of the HP fuel pump, but none at the rail. Even with the rail sensor out, and cranking, it dont sent any fuel to the rail.
The rail sensor measures 0 kpa's fuel pressure and if i disconnect him it will assume a fixed value, 149437kpa. With or without the sensor the car wont start.

I have checked the wires from the rail sensor to the ECU and all make continuity to it (i have read it here its an commun fault), so i can assume its all right.

The HP fuel pump valve i measured it, 2.7ohms of resistance. There is any more tests to test it? On the OBD2 it changes the Amps when i turn the ignition on and off.

Even with start spray, it starts and imediatly shut down when i stop with the spray. I tried to spray gor around 30s, to see if it runs, as soon as the spray ends, the engine shuts down.

The cam sensor, its wiring seems a little bit warned and cracked, could it cause this problems?

And crank sensor, there is any test we can do to check it? It shows RPMs on the dash of the car and on OBD2 data aswell, around 300/400rpms when cranking.

The MAF i have tried to disconnect and crank, wont start at all. It can cause the non starting or 0 fuel at the rail?

I also have checked the impact red bulb, its all good. As soon as i turn the ignition on, the FP starts buzzing.


Any ideias? Im about to buy a new High Pressure Fuel Pump. But its really expensive, so i just wanted to make sure im heading the right direction.

Thank you all, cheers
 
Have you tried the low pressure switch at the end of the rail sometimes either the plug or even the wires give up the ghost ,a new switch isn't expensive and check inside the plug spray abit of contact spray and check the wiring going into the plug
 
Hello Dbest43,

I already spray it with Cleaning brake spray + eletrical contact spray + brushing and blowed all till dry. All the green gunk its gone.
The wiring, as i said before, i have tested it, the pins back to the ECU of the car, all have continuity (checked with the multimeter).

The valve reads 0kpa and if i unplug it it shows a random fixed value by default 149437kpa
And without the valve in the rail, but connected or disconnected have the same values as before mentioned and the car will not start. And not a single drop of fuel its sent to the fuel rail.
 
Have you tried undoing pipes going to the injectors to see if it's getting through could be air locked had a similar problem loosened the pipes and kept cranking till it finally came through
 
I have tried that also, loosened one and then all pipes. No fuel its getting there.
Fuel its getting to the pump, but it seems the pump its not pumping it up to the rail.

Is there any sensor that could do that? Cancel the fuel pumping to the rail?
 
RMexia said:
I have tried that also, loosened one and then all pipes. No fuel its getting there.
Fuel its getting to the pump, but it seems the pump its not pumping it up to the rail.
Click to expand...

Hi,

When you said it was in a garage for 10 years, without running ?

Regards
 
Hi

The engine will not run if you unplug some sensor or valve.

But if there is no fuel in the circuit ... 0kpa it's logical, no fuel leak ?
 
Dbest its from 01/2001. First's TD4's around (they come out 11 or 12 of 2000 here)...

AlteredTech, yes, 10 years sitting on an garage without running.

I got fuel reaching the HP pump, i have checked the entry tube and make another test, i disconnect the Pressure Valve on HP fuel pump and as soon i turn on the ignition, fuel come out of the hole (were the sensor was located).
Got no leaks visible, either from the HP pump (outside of the engine) or any other tube.

My concern its, even if the pump went bad, he should deliver some fuel to the rail i think. Unless the HP Fuel Pump got stuck somehow. Or maybe that HP Pump valve its bad?
 
So 10 years even you manage to start it, you will have some issue, since fuel line can become dry and cracked. Brake can be also an issue.

The loom for the fuel rail pressure sensor can be corroded. Do you have a reading of that sensor ? Peharps the car never had the upgraded loom.

When cranking you should have the high presure pump that goes from 0kpa to 6000 kpa. Do you have any reading for the pump ?
 
Last edited:
Nodge68, do you have some schematics from the pins from the plug of the camshaft sensor to the ECU?

Just to check the loom
 
Last edited:
AlteredTech i will upgrade the brake lines before hitting the road. Safety first, always!
And i got IPO to do(our Anual MOT here).

I have checked the loom by check continuity with an multimeter from the plug of the rail sensor to the ECU. If there is signal passing with the multimeter, i think i can assume its correct.

Ecu pin 35 - white/yellow Rail plug
Ecu pin 20 - Brown/green Rail Plug
Ecu pin 33 - Blue/Black Rail Plug
They all give me continuity from plug to ECU.

And i have checked, between Pin 3 and earth - 5v with ignition on;
Pin 1 and earth - 0/0.2ohms (if i remember correctly) with ignition on

And its the original model, not the upgraded model wich enter on the ECU case from the side...

From the sensor on OBD2 program that i got it reads 0kpa with ignition on or cranking. And opening an injector metal pipe, do not come out any fuel, so the reading 0kpa its correct i think.
 
Hi,

Do you have a basic fault tester, or something specific with advanced reading ?
For the codes, erase them, and restart the procedure, each time you unplug something it gives you a code.

To start you need to have when cranking :

At least 600 to 700 rpms on the starter.
At least 6000 kpa out of the hp pump. Fuel rail sensor give you that pressure.
If you have a value, so the sensor is working ... if you have 0kpa, there is no presure ... can be the fuel pump accuator, the pump or the fuel rail pressure sensor, or the loom.
At least 1bar in the low pressure pump. The sensor is in the left front wheel arch.
Injectors with a normal leak back.
A working cam sensor.
A working crank sensor.
 
Last edited:
RMexia said:
Nodge68, do you have some schematics from the pins from the plug of the camshaft sensor to the ECU?

Just to check the loom
Click to expand...

Not to hand I'm afraid. A simple continuity check to the plug at the ECM should test the wiring ok.

Are both low pressure fuel pumps running?
The ECM will prevent rail pressure if the LP pumps aren't supplying over 250kPa of pressure.
 
AlteredTech, i got a regular Delphi replica from ebay + ELM27 with Torque. So i can see some live data.

Nodge68, Low pressure sensor in this case its on the cap of the fuel filter. Standing still its around 100kpa and with ignition on its around 450kpa. The fuel pump on the tank and in the engine compartment are both NEW.
Got a good flow of pressure arriving to the HP Fuel Pump. I have checkdd the feeding tubes to a palstic bottle.

I need to check:
- Camshaft Loom (Continuity to ECM- 3 wires and near the camshaft sensor they appear to be warned out with the plastic cover cracked, but its lacking the signal to ECU and shut down HP Fuel Pump? )
- Cranshaft Loom (Continuity yo ECM)
- Camshaft Sensor ( is there some test to do with it?)
- Crankshaft Sensor ( i think its working, because i got RPM reading on the cluster + Autocom machine)

Even with camshaft sensor dead, with easyspray, it should not start? I tought td4 cam sensor was obly for starting...
 
RMexia said:
Even with camshaft sensor dead, with easyspray, it should not start? I tought td4 cam sensor was obly for starting..
Click to expand...

It'll fire on easy start, because it's a diesel. However if the cam sensor isn't returning a timing signal, the ECM won't power the injectors, as it can't know the timing sequence.
 
Hi

To understand, the engine does start with easy start and immediatly die.

I you have the rpm reading the crank sensor is working. So it works.

The maf sensor should give you air presure, if you have it, it works.

You stay at 0 kpa, and no fuel out off the high presure rail, you certainly have a dead high presure pump. More likelly the valve on it.

For the cam sensor change it, to be sure it not causing issues.
 
Last edited:
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