Freelander 1 Lower front suspension arm

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Hippo

Hippo

Lord Hippo
Posts
54,067
Where do we like to buy replacement lower front suspension arms? And what make?

Part numbers:
RHS = RBJ102920
LHS = RBJ102930

I want to change the ball joint but it looks easier to replace the whole arm with a new ball joint already fitted. There seems to be a lot of price difference online. Most don't list the brand which makes me think they is hiding something.
 
I've had both Britpart and Bearmach arms and the quality has been rubbish on both - split gaiters within 3 months/2000 miles on the Britpart and Bearmach I have a groan from and issues with the gaiters again
 
Hi Hippo,

TBH

If the radius arm is in good condition, it is only a matter of grinding off the rivet heads and punching them out.

The new ball joint assemblies come with the bolts in the kit and you can replace both with good quality parts for less than the price of one arm.

its also a relatively quick straight forward job, which with a bit of care can be done with the arm in situ.
 
Aftermarket bottom arms are the bane of my automotive life.
I have never changed them on my Freelander, but the CT has mentioned "minor play" for the last few tests, so probably not far off.
However my experience of them on other cars is NEVER good. Original parts tend to last ten years or so and then you fit aftermarket replacements...Delphi, Moog, QH, doesnt matter what is written on the packet, they rarely last more than two years and the cheaper ones will be lucky to last a year. I am also pretty sure that overly soft rubber bushes allow for variable suspension geometry when in use meaning tracking alignment is a best guess at an average setting, hence tyres wearing faster than they used to.
 
I only do 4k miles per year. Should I be going to the main dealer for them? The wing bit is rusted on both sides. Hence wanting to replace the arm at the same time. I have a knocking noise which is due to the ball joint.
 
Hippo said:
I only do 4k miles per year. Should I be going to the main dealer for them? The wing bit is rusted on both sides. Hence wanting to replace the arm at the same time. I have a knocking noise which is due to the ball joint.
Click to expand...

Shocking price from Landrover, about £160.00 each.....:eek:

Wire wheel and Rust treat them then blow them over with satin black...
 
It deserves quality parts tho hippo, a lot of aftermarket stuff is rubbish, you get what you pay for. So it depends on the size of your wallet, how lng are you keeping the car, mileage etc.
 
Mileage makes no odds. Cheap chinese **** has a lifespan measured in months at best.

A couple of years back I restored an old Morris Mini van. I bought all new upper and lower balljoints and track rod ends from the mini equivalent of britparts. After fitting, it took me another few months to finish off the rest of the car, in which time it travelled a grand total of about 100 meters, mostly being pushed in and out of the workshop. when finished, I drove it 30-odd miles for inspection where it failed on all rubbers being perished on every single ball joint.

Whats the point?
 
I've never had any luck with a wire brush and re-painting. I tried that on me rear drums and the paint comes oft too easily. Even tried it again on fresh metal with an under coat and it's the same.

Price bracket is what I need to pay I guess. It could rise to the main dealer price if needed.

It's just passed 40k miles. On borrowed time some would say. I plan to keep it until it's unfeasible to repair due to cost, or feked. It's would annoy me to give away such a good condition vehicle, on such a low mileage. The other day the bloke that welded me captive nut spotted it after last seeing it 2.5 years ago. He's bought a diesel FL1 now. Having the keys to mine must have had an affect.

I though I'd do both sides at the same time. 1 side is causing a knock sometimes on bumps. It's coming from the ball joint. Didn't want to mess with drilling and the arms have rust all over them which is only to be expected considering their position on the vehicle. I have me trackace to check wheel alignment after replacement.

Looking at price it seems LR is about £167 each side. I get 10% oft with allegiance card.
Many sell just the ball joint under the part number of the whole arm.
Delphi, bearmach and others are in the £30 to 40 zone.

Lemforder is £115 - I'm wondering if they're the manufacturer of the original LR fitted arms?
 
Had Qdrive ones from euro parts on my dads k series for 2-3 years and seemed fine, would of lasted longer but car was written off. Of course you can buy genuinely from the likes of island 4x4.

If you want my advise just do the ball joints with genuine ones as it will be easier over all, if you change the arms you may need new rear bushes etc

Lemforder are always recommended in Range Rover world, put their ball joints on the p38
 
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If I only replace the ball joint with the bolt on type is that good enough for a future mot? Will they question why the arm hasn't been replaced or is changing the ball joint only an option that's ok?
 
its fine to just change ball joint if thats all thats failed , why would you go to a main dealer just put g after part number and google
 
Had a better look in daylight this morning and the arms don't look bad. As it's only the ball joint with a fault I will look at getting just that bit as above.

While I'm ere... I wondered how often the front calipers should be replaced? Is there a set interval or is it when they fail/leak? Just wondering.
 
Last edited:
Hippo said:
Had a better look in daylight this mroning and the arms don't look bad. As it's only the ball joint with a fault I will look at getting just that bit as above.



While I'm ere... I wondered how often the front calipers should be replaced? Is there a set interval or is it when they fail/leak? Just wondering.
Click to expand...


Wouldn't have thought there is an interval more just as needed. I have had callipers last well over 200k. It will come down to how they are used, does the car sit for extended periods etc. You can normally tell if there is a problem as stopping gets worse, pulls, rusty disks etc.
 
Thanks all. Lemforder ball joints on order. I have also got it some front brake pads and engine air filter. Add that to insurance, tax, mot and a new indicator stalk anorl. It's had more than enough presents this month. At least we found the knocking sound that's taken a few years to get worse enough on a low mileage to detect.
 
Working on this today and am stuck.

Can get the ball joint out of the bottom of the brake bracket thing. Can undo the nut but not all the way to get it oft. The rest of the arm is disconnected in the hope it would allow the correct angle for the ball joint bolt to come out but it still won't. I'm wondering if the ball joint bolt is threaded? I can't make my mind up when looking at it.

What am I doing wrong?
 
I just searched for "freelander drive shaft remove" in goo gle and selected the images option and me own pic appears as the first image. So I must have been able to get the drive shaft out before, even if it was the other side. So that's the plan for now and then I can whack the ball joint with clear space.

oagV5z4.jpg

P3271807 oagV5z4
 
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