sierrafery
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It's officially called "surge damping":Ha! I have only known it as a 'Clutch Switch', not an anti surge circuit, oh well, one less thing to check!
It's officially called "surge damping":Ha! I have only known it as a 'Clutch Switch', not an anti surge circuit, oh well, one less thing to check!
It's officially called "surge damping":
You can swap the chips without probs it's a socket fitted just work with care as to not pull the socket's soldering, looks like this, if you dont have the special tool to grab the chip lever it out carefully with thin screwdriver all around to remove it then push the replacement straight and fully in, it has a positioning slot... you'll figure it out
just tighten it untill it overboosts then back one if no overboost we'll speak again, eventually make sure it's not stuck open it should move with a certain forceThanks, would I need to make any other changes to Wastegate for example or just start her up and see?
just tighten it untill it overboosts then back one if no overboost we'll speak again, eventually make sure it's not stuck open it should move with a certain force
Mine is disconnected, seems to drive just fine. Tempted to plug it back in see if anything happens.Ha! I have only known it as a 'Clutch Switch', not an anti surge circuit, oh well, one less thing to check!
It's not about rpm or speed in your case as it's about just gaining a bit more boost cos your's seem low, the overboost protection is set to 1.42 bar caculated by the ECU so once the boost exceeds that regardless of speed it kicks in unless the wastegate is stuck closed then on a well fuelled vehicle it kicks in at around 2500rpm as no boost is "wasted". In tour case the wastegate should be adjusted as to open as late as possible but to not let the boost exceed that 1.42 bar at maximum load. On defenders the best way is to let the wastegate softer and fit a manual boost controller between the turbo outlet and wastegate valve, then the boost curve gets smoother as it opens on the MBC's setting while on direct boost actuation the more tight the wastegate is the more "agressive" it gets so it can be jerky on fast throttle activity if you see what i mean... that's why they fitted the wastegate modulator on D2sat what speed/rpm would I need to be before I can expect it to overboost? Would it overboost as relatively low speeds/rpm's?
Ha! I have only known it as a 'Clutch Switch', not an anti surge circuit, oh well, one less thing to check!
Then as long as there's no surge on gear change means that your's is underfuelled a bit like when the clutch is depressed all the time unless it was remapped accordinglyMine is disconnected, seems to drive just fine. Tempted to plug it back in see if anything happens.
It hasn't been mapped that I do know. I might plug it in and see if anything noticeable happens sometime.Then as long as there's no surge on gear change means that your's is underfuelled a bit like when the clutch is depressed all the time unless it was remapped accordingly
Stock Chip went in fine, result was a much less angry drive and although ZERO bunny hopping, there was a palpable difference in power going up hill. Though I'm not suggesting it was bad, just very different and needing to drop a gear into 2nd rather than powering up the hill in 3rd (also, bear in mind I am talking about a quick, steep climb of no more than 1/4 of a mile, if that. Much smoother acceleration and generally more in line with what I am after.You can swap the chips without probs....
Just a thought, but do you know any local with a td5 that would let you have a quick shot to reset your 'normal'?
Not sure, I guess that contingent on the engine, weight etc...but at a guess not third!What gear would you use in a modern hatchback?
You better figure out first exactly what's what on your vehice cos it's about MAF connected/disconnected not MAP cos with MAP disconnected it woud run like sh*t and about the MAF i already explainedStock Chip went in fine, result was a much less angry drive and although ZERO bunny hopping, there was a palpable difference in power going up hill. Though I'm not suggesting it was bad, just very different and needing to drop a gear into 2nd rather than powering up the hill in 3rd (also, bear in mind I am talking about a quick, steep climb of no more than 1/4 of a mile, if that. Much smoother acceleration and generally more in line with what I am after.
Hoping to get out later to check the boost as suggested - weather permitting, its going to pour down here later, not good if I am going to be in and out of it.
As a matter of interest I did two recordings one with MAP connected and the other without. What are your thoughts, it certainly felt better with MAP disconnected - isn't there a MAP bypass we can do, is it worth it or even relevant to me?
Nano MAP Connected
Nano MAP Disconnected
You better figure out first exactly what's what on your vehice cos it's about MAF connected/disconnected not MAP cos with MAP disconnected it woud run like sh*t and about the MAF i already explained
It's possible that the PO bought a generic remapped chip on ebay and those are rudimentary injector duration maps ... if you want it good get a proper remap from a reputable tuner which can work with limiters to addapt it to your needsI am thinking, as mine had been 'mapped' by the owner before the chap got it off (and he didn't know any details himself) that map might have been contributing to it not being close to my 'normal'.
It's possible that the PO bought a generic remapped chip on ebay and those are rudimentary injector duration maps ... if you want it good get a proper remap from a reputable tuner which can work with limiters to addapt it to your needs
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