Low oil pressure
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I've seen that pump, it's 195 us plus shipping of 20 us, it's just shy of 300 can. If I knew this was gonna fix the eng I'd spend that kinda cash, but....... I don't. I was seeing if someone had a hgf eng and swapped in another eng and had the hgf engine lying around waiting to go for recycling.
Everyone keeps telling me it's 100 for a pump, maybe of in Europe, but not here in canada, the exchange rate is killing me since the dollar tanked.
Thanks
For all the help
Lowbank
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thats ok, and I understand.
I also from my experiance over the years would bet on the shells need replacing.
How many miles has the engine done???
I also from my experiance over the years would bet on the shells need replacing.
How many miles has the engine done???
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- Preston Lancs.
By the way 1 bar = 14.5 PSI. 14.7 PSI is the international standard atmosphere at sea level at 15 degrees c. And is in fact 1.075 bar.
I know.By the way 1 bar = 14.5 PSI. 14.7 PSI is the international standard atmosphere at sea level at 15 degrees c. And is in fact 1.075 bar.
Perhaps you better inform MGR as the figures, correct to sea level at 15°C or otherwise came straight off there oil pressure data sheet. It took you two weeks to try and rubbish my data. Did you have to look it up?
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I know.
Perhaps you better inform MGR as the figures, correct to sea level at 15°C or otherwise came straight off there oil pressure data sheet. It took you two weeks to try and rubbish my data. Did you have to look it up?
No it's something i know. Being a pilot and working on aircraft for a lot of years and building my own it's the sort of thing you know unsurprisingly. ISA is what altimeters are set to. Not trying to rubbish anything just correcting an error. The oil pressures will be slightly less than said. Only just seen it. Touchy little chap aren't you.
Lowbank
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So Wammers, a pilot from Preston.
What do you fly?
What do you fly?
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- Preston Lancs.
Just light aircraft when i did fly. Long ago now.
Lowbank
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went up twice in a 4 seater Piper, once in high winds, that was kinda fun.
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- Preston Lancs.
Landing at Liverpool in a 22 knot cross wind when the max for the plane was 25 knots was quite interesting. Also Barton where you had to hold the nose wheel off the ground to stop it getting knocked about, was also entertaining. Never land or take off from Barton if you have loose teeth.
So I'm bring this back from the dead, I found a new oil pump off ebay, that was a reasonable price but still more then I wanted to pay! So the last 4 days I've swapped out the pump and did the timing belts since I had to remove them anyways. Started it up, no issues with the timing ( no tool belt change) but I still have low oil pressure after a bit if driving ( 5-10 mins city).
Is there any more cheep fixes to try? Am I now looking at a rebuild of this eng?
Recap all that has been done to date, new sending unit installed, oil changed to 10W40 synthetic, changed filter to a wix ( same time oil was changed), dropped and cleaned the sludge out of the pan and pick up, confirmed oil press is low with gauge, now changed oil pump. When it's running at idle, it's reading 1-2 psi, and off idle it goes up to approx 20 psi.
Is there any more cheep fixes to try? Am I now looking at a rebuild of this eng?
Recap all that has been done to date, new sending unit installed, oil changed to 10W40 synthetic, changed filter to a wix ( same time oil was changed), dropped and cleaned the sludge out of the pan and pick up, confirmed oil press is low with gauge, now changed oil pump. When it's running at idle, it's reading 1-2 psi, and off idle it goes up to approx 20 psi.
It's running at under half the correct oil pressure. If you've exhausted all possibilities other than the bearings. Then there's little else it can be. The bearings don't generally wear out unless the oil/ filter changes have been missed, the filter hasn't been pre-filled with new oil before installation, the wrong oil has been used, or its been run dry.
Looking likely that a bottom end rebuild is in order. The bearings are cheap to obtain but the engine does need removing to carry out the work.
Looking likely that a bottom end rebuild is in order. The bearings are cheap to obtain but the engine does need removing to carry out the work.
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Lowbank
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- Burnley, lancashire
certainly looks like the shells are worn out to me
The removal is not a problem. If I'm gonna do this on the cheep, besides for the bearing shells, anything else that I need to order? I haven't looked to much into it just yet, I'm not looking at doing a full rebuild, as the car is not worth too much so the less I put into it the better. I'm just gonna do the shells and nothing else so what all needs to come off and what can stay on? As it will come down to cost if I'm gonna repair this freelander!
Thanks for the answers
Thanks for the answers
The very minimum you will need is a set of shells. These were size graded from the factory. Most replacement shells come in a standard size however.
For a quick get you going again repair, you could literally flip the engine over after removal and strip the bottom end only. However you will need to remove the timing belt and oil pump off the front. You'll also need to remove the flex plate at the back so that the rear crank seal can be removed.
Otherwise it's just a strip down of the block. The main bearings are held in place by the bearing ladder. There's loads of different lengths of bolts to hold everything in place. No gaskets are needed as an anaerobic sealant (I use Loctite 574), is used in assembly. Some lower block bolts are patch bolts from the factory. These will need thread lock on reassembly.
Bear in mind that you should only change just the shells if the crank isn't worn. The white metal of the shell is a sacrificial coating which will erode. If the white metal has been completely removed in use, the crank will likely be damaged. This would generally require a regrind of the journal and matching undersized bearings fitted. This will add to the rebuild costs but will increase the engine life considerably. Good luck
For a quick get you going again repair, you could literally flip the engine over after removal and strip the bottom end only. However you will need to remove the timing belt and oil pump off the front. You'll also need to remove the flex plate at the back so that the rear crank seal can be removed.
Otherwise it's just a strip down of the block. The main bearings are held in place by the bearing ladder. There's loads of different lengths of bolts to hold everything in place. No gaskets are needed as an anaerobic sealant (I use Loctite 574), is used in assembly. Some lower block bolts are patch bolts from the factory. These will need thread lock on reassembly.
Bear in mind that you should only change just the shells if the crank isn't worn. The white metal of the shell is a sacrificial coating which will erode. If the white metal has been completely removed in use, the crank will likely be damaged. This would generally require a regrind of the journal and matching undersized bearings fitted. This will add to the rebuild costs but will increase the engine life considerably. Good luck
That doesn't sound too bad of a job to do, since I already have done the timing belts, installed a new oil pump. No gaskets is a bonus, in a cheep rebuild. Is there a way to know what shells were installed already? Or will I have to open it up first and see? I'd like to have everything sitting here before I pull the eng, as we are still driving it, I know even with low oil pressure but we need the use of the car still.
If I remember searching, there was colors for the bearings, what would be the standard ones to buy? Are the con rods one worth doing as well as the crank since I'll have it opened up that far!
Thanks for all the help with my strange questions on getting this hippo back up and running with no issues!
Cheers
If I remember searching, there was colors for the bearings, what would be the standard ones to buy? Are the con rods one worth doing as well as the crank since I'll have it opened up that far!
Thanks for all the help with my strange questions on getting this hippo back up and running with no issues!
Cheers
There are 10 or 12 bearing part numbers for the main bearings alone. They are sized in 0.003mm, increments each given a colour code. This makes it difficult to choose bearings without doing a strip down of the engine first. To make things more complex, each journal could have a different size bearing.
More issues have shown up in this hippo, so now it's starting to look like the wife wants something more reliable for her daily driver. It's starting to look like we will be parting ways sooner then later, thanks for the info on the bearing shells, we will see what she wants to do with the freelander now!
