Low annual mileage

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MaxTheDog1

MaxTheDog1

Active Member
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Posts
165
Location
N. Yorkshire
Hi All,
I’ve had my 06 FL1 for just over 12 months now an have done 2800 miles in that time. It’s done 147k in total. I’m wondering is there anything I should/ could do to dodge any untoward ‘events’ that may happen because of the low mileage. I’m retired now, but when I was working I did around 160 miles a day so I’ve no experience with low annual mileage motors.
I will add that although I’ve no service history of the FL, it drives perfectly with no odd thuds, knock etc and all the electrics are doing their thing. I’ve had to Araldite the tailgate handle mountings as per a thread on here somewhere and clean the window electric controls on the drivers door. I think it’s a great motor all round.
Cheers,
Michael.
 
I wouldnt worry about it too much but it might be advisable to do oil changes more often rather than waiting 3 years until the mileage warrents it.

Col
 
Hi Max.
Is the Fl a diesel or petrol? when you bought it did you give it a service then, ie oil, oil filter, air filter, pollen filter, PCV filter diesel only which is very important, fuel filter, if the above were not carried out by you after you purchased it, and you do not have any idea when it was last serviced i would do all of the above.

If it's a petrol car V6 then the belts maybe need to be done, which are 90,000 or every six years, this is done along with thermostat, water pump etc at the same time.

I will hold back saying any more until we know what FL1 you have.
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Hi All,
I’ve had my 06 FL1 for just over 12 months now an have done 2800 miles in that time. It’s done 147k in total. I’m wondering is there anything I should/ could do to dodge any untoward ‘events’ that may happen because of the low mileage. I’m retired now, but when I was working I did around 160 miles a day so I’ve no experience with low annual mileage motors.
I will add that although I’ve no service history of the FL, it drives perfectly with no odd thuds, knock etc and all the electrics are doing their thing. I’ve had to Araldite the tailgate handle mountings as per a thread on here somewhere and clean the window electric controls on the drivers door. I think it’s a great motor all round.
Cheers,
Michael.
Click to expand...

Hi,

There should be no issue with low mileage, only doing annual service with oil change.

I have done 12000 miles in 4 years, only for small rides, I put 5w40 oil.
It's better to change oil each 6 months, but you can change it every years with no issue.

The air conditioning need to be used at least once a week for at least 15 minutes.
 
Thanks Colt and Arctic, sorry about that. You’ve basically answered my question. I was wondering about at least the engine oil and filter. It’s a 2 litre TD4. It had been serviced by the (LR specialist) dealer. What’s the PCV filter?
Cheers,
M.
 
For the TD4 if you have no history is better the check or renew :
- The auxiliary drive belt, no need to change the water pump if it is not leaking.
- Checking the VCU bearing for cracked rubber, and the 3 uv joints for play, and also the front diff support.
- Brake fluid change.
- Air conditioning refill.
- Changing the pcv filter, most of the garage doesn't know about it.
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Thanks Colt and Arctic, sorry about that. You’ve basically answered my question. I was wondering about at least the engine oil and filter. It’s a 2 litre TD4. It had been serviced by the (LR specialist) dealer. What’s the PCV filter?
Cheers,
M.
Click to expand...
LLJ500010 | Filter - Crankcase Breather - Cyl Head - Td4 & Td6 | Frl1 - RR L322 - Land Rover Part LLJ500010 (lrdirect.com)

If you don't have this part on the bill when it was serviced, you will need to change it.
 
Thanks Alteredtech,
Sounds like me, pootling around near home - tip, shop and allotment runs.
Think I’ll get the annual service done. The air con doesn’t work, but seeing as we’ve just been through the hottest summer on record and I drove around with all the windows down I think I can live without it! :) On the subject of temperature control, the heated seats are fantastic and put my Jags to shame.
Cheers,
Michael
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Thanks Alteredtech,
Sounds like me, pootling around near home - tip, shop and allotment runs.
Think I’ll get the annual service done. The air con doesn’t work, but seeing as we’ve just been through the hottest summer on record and I drove around with all the windows down I think I can live without it! :) On the subject of temperature control, the heated seats are fantastic and put my Jags to shame.
Cheers,
Michael
Click to expand...

Hi, if the Air conditioning doesn't work, most of a the time a refill can do the job.
But if all joints get dry, you need to open the system to change the joints and put air conditioning oil on them.
 
Last edited:
MaxTheDog1 said:
Thanks Colt and Arctic, sorry about that. You’ve basically answered my question. I was wondering about at least the engine oil and filter. It’s a 2 litre TD4. It had been serviced by the (LR specialist) dealer. What’s the PCV filter?
Cheers,
M.
Click to expand...

I thought you said you don't know its service history? did they not stamp the book it was last serviced. low mileage is also bad for the EGR it can get clogged up, along with the manifold and MAP sensor.
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1

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2

EGR.
mp6N17Dl.jpg
3

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4

PCV filter.
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5

Map sensor blocked & clear one side by side.
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6

Maybe check the belts for cracking etc. they are not expensive to change out.
UJ8tZj3l.jpg
7

Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Land Rover Freelander Rover 75 - 5PK2030 | eBay

Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Freelander 75 Impreza Legacy MG ZT - 5PK870 | eBay

I would also get the A/C tested and gassed up as it can damage the compressor if all the seals go dry.
 
I cleaned the EGR valve at 100k miles and it was not that dirty.
Unless there is a hole in the boost pipes that throw black smoke and the car never see the freeway there is no reason that the EGR valve get totaly clogged.
It good to clean it, but I won't stay clean for long.

There is another problem with the freelander, the boost pipes become oily, and I never find how to cure it ...
The temp sensor in the boost pipe leak oil, never find how to fix it.
 
Last edited:
Apologies Arctic for the confusion. I don’t have the service manual, but only the refurb details. But I’ve decided to replace all the filters and fluids so I’ve at least got a baseline to work off. Speaking of which, how do you replace the gearbox, IRD and diff fluids?
Cheers.
 
MaxTheDog1 said:
Apologies Arctic for the confusion. I don’t have the service manual, but only the refurb details. But I’ve decided to replace all the filters and fluids so I’ve at least got a baseline to work off. Speaking of which, how do you replace the gearbox, IRD and diff fluids?
Cheers.
Click to expand...

Diff doesn't have a drain plug, so need to use a syringe.
For the manual gearbox and IRD first remove the fill plug !!! Then you can remove the drain plug ( Always in that order ).

For manual gearbox you need MTF94 oil, and the fill plug is in a very odd place.
IRD and Diff doesn't use the same oil, you need 75W80 and 80W90
 
Last edited:
MaxTheDog1 said:
Apologies Arctic for the confusion. I don’t have the service manual, but only the refurb details. But I’ve decided to replace all the filters and fluids so I’ve at least got a baseline to work off. Speaking of which, how do you replace the gearbox, IRD and diff fluids?
Cheers.
Click to expand...

Also leave the clutch fluid as it is, don't touch it, you will end up changing the clutch master.
 
Many thanks Alteredtech and Arctic2 for your assistance today. I’m surprised there’s only on fill point in an ‘odd’ place.
The diff’s the same as the Jag, only it’s fill point is behind the rear bulkhead and requires a hole making in that first! Got the syringe.
 
I have done multiple diff oil changes with a manual vacuum pump and then used the Transmax bottle to pump the new oil into diff. It's doable, but not enjoyable. Recently I found a cheap electric pump meant for diesel and stuff. It did the oil change nicely. Pumping the old oil out was actually quite fast. Pumping the new thick oil in was a bit slower.

The diff takes only under a liter, so even the manual method is not that bad.
Screenshot_20221110-072211_Photos.jpg
 
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