Loud cracking noise - rotational with rev's

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Taking off what i can.. apparently means not the rad cause i cant get the fan off. (Another time me thinks)

Taking off stuff to clean however and ive got this off to flush through and check its operational. I cant get her to flow through both tubes. Is this trashed and need a new one? Using little sprayer as pictured as it builds up a good little pressure. This may have something to do with my cooling issues before the pump went if these are supposed to flow. Tried it from both ends incase it was a 1 way valve and i was trying it the wrong way.



Land rover wants 56 quid for this part... i'll pay it if i have too but is there better ones etc?
 
I cant see the image (might be blocked at work) but there is a small bore pipe that has a valve in it - the Y shaped thing...? If a pipe wont flow either way then that's a problem.

Fan - obviously have the belt on to stop the thing moving. It's a wrong way thread so to undo smack the fan spanner towards the passenger side of the car. Might take a couple of belts to get loose.

Edit ok looked at the images on the phone.

Those hooked over pipes are almost certainly transmission breathers from the gearbox and transfer case. Looks like a Defender this too..?

The cap - no idea. Is that grease inside it?
 
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Yeah its the Y peice jobby not playing ball. The fan moves when hitting as its slipping.. probably from all the water/coolant thats hit it. The 32 spanner aint very manly either so i'll get a bigger fan spanner jobby to fix this said issue. From how its looking i should be able to get around it.. bit of a pain as it'll be easier with it off.

I'll order the landrover one.. isnt cheap but i suppose its lasted 20 years so can't complain too much on that.
 
If the fan moves jam some rubber between the belt and the wheel at the bottom so it traps it as it starts to turn. Old piece of a drivebelt is ideal if you have a scrap one you can cut 2 inch off.

It will come it may take some smacking but it doenst usually present problems removing it until you drop it at the end and hole the rad, it's heavier than you think!

Also looking at injector 4 there appears to be a spill pipe cap missing?
 
I do have the old belt still so i'll try that little trick ta!

You referring one of the 3 hooked over pipes that needs to go onto the little nipple by the fuel line? If so which one should i fit of the 2 and where does the other one go? And then where does the one on the other side go?

If your on about the big black cap im stumped as didnt see any others there across the top?
 
Nooo. Those hooked pipes are the breathers - if there is three then one will be the front axle breather as well as transmission. Leave them as they are.

The injectors have two spill tubes for excess diesel - these need daisy chainging to number 1 and then a long line goes to the back of the injection pump for return to the fuel tank. However the number 4 injector only has one pipe so the other end usually has a black rubber cap which looks like it's missing. is there a diesel leak from that brass spill pipe outlet?
 
Legend.. now i know what they're for that helps no end! Your right it is daisy chained back. Im out just grabbing a thermostat as was getting burned to crap working on the truck so i'll report back in a bit when im home. Funny though how they are just hanging about and not attatched to something though.

Fingers crossed thats what this black cap is. Has a bit of a thread on inside and has white gunky stuff inside.. maybe old grease to help as a waterproof seal?
 
Cap and suggested location? Am i blind or what?



Edit;

Dont forget the cap but today ended in this...



Well wasnt a full day but basically i had a real nightmare and one of which was the bottom rad hose was rusted to the point i had to remove rad to be able to smash it off. Worked out alright though in the sense the radiator is pretty trashed so i guess i'll be getting a new one. Any suggestions on what to get? This one has pure daylight going through it and i doubt shes really up to much now.



Cheers all

EDIT: There is a radiator place in Avonmouth called Arrow Radiators about 20 mins drive from me, i'll give them a shout and see what it would cost to get this one back to her former glory against buying a new one. Seems to be a 50/50 split on new alu rads vs the original job. Only has a couple of reviews but was the most local one to me.
http://www.arrowbristol.co.uk/car-radiators/3154161
 
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That cap looks like the end of a universal joint (if it is make of metal). I would get underneath and look at both propshafts in case one of the circlips has failed, you wont like driving around with a flailing propshaft! The Rad is toast, if it is an original (metal one) look to see if there is anyone local who can recore it for you, would cost about the same as a new plastic/aluminium one but I think steel/copper is just a stronger setup, after all its lasted 20 odd years already. The Y piece does have a valve in it as is used as part of the bleeding system,must admit I've never tried pumping anything through it so don't know how much resistance will be felt
 
upload_2017-8-26_8-51-52.png
 
The cap I am stumped by but mines a Disco not a Defender so there could be something I dont have.

Rad - it's toasted. And so will be the engine if not swapped. IF thats a metal side tank one get it recored if possible. Does the oil cooler look OK - get them to check.

If a plastic side tank one, get a replacement. It'll probably be Britpart, it's going to be fine, as despite the reputation Britpart have for some things they are very good. I work on the assumption if it needs case hardening, if it seals or if it rotates dont get Britpart. Whilst I'm on that though any britpart you order with a G suffix is made to Geniune spec and should be as good asn OEM part. Britpart wheel bearings marked as a G suffix for example are Timken... the non G are some unnamed Chinese plant that makes them from toffee...

spill pipes on the injectors. Yes they are daisy chained and the pipe on the no 1 goes to the back of the diesel pump. What about 4? There is an injector with only 1 spill pipe fitted - thats normal but there is an unused spill pipe - does that have a blanking plug on it or a cap? Otherwise it'll leak diesel. IT looks like there is no cap fitted.
 
End one has nothing fitted to it as per pics, by end i mean closest to bulkhead not rad. This is why i posted about those breathers as they are the correct size to fit on so thought one must go onto it. Edit.. quick google search of 300tdi fuel breather pipes shows end one is free of anything being attached. The 3 hooked breathers however are not visable. Heres the lllink i was looking at (doing this on my phone at work again)
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=42192&start=10

Edit. Shows a hooked one fitted at the start of the chain on other google images though


She is heavy on diesel though so i wonder..

Rad wise.. edited earlier post about going to cost up a re-core as its trashed. The rest is leak free and all metal no plastic. No oil leaks on cooler etc it just seems to be all the fins are AWOL.
 
Well... the recommendation of changing the P gasket was spot on. Waterpump actually dry and fine (i have a new one and gasket anyway) but check this little beauty.



Thanks again to all who has helped so far! One problem i got was the bottom bolt holding on the casing was super tight so i wrecked the head. Smashed on an imperial socket to get it off though and a proud moment.. didn't run straight for the kettle!

If someone could give me a link on paddocks or ebay or whatever for this as i'll need to put in a new one.



To clear it up, its the one at the bottom closest to crank pully with a 10mm head. Its not the one to the right which is twice its length and uses a bolt on the end.

Cheers,

Mark.
 
Coffee Addict said:
Well... the recommendation of changing the P gasket was spot on. Waterpump actually dry and fine (i have a new one and gasket anyway) but check this little beauty.



Thanks again to all who has helped so far! One problem i got was the bottom bolt holding on the casing was super tight so i wrecked the head. Smashed on an imperial socket to get it off though and a proud moment.. didn't run straight for the kettle!

If someone could give me a link on paddocks or ebay or whatever for this as i'll need to put in a new one.



To clear it up, its the one at the bottom closest to crank pully with a 10mm head. Its not the one to the right which is twice its length and uses a bolt on the end.

Cheers,

Mark.
Click to expand...


Here you go, recommend that you replace all the pump bolts with new, they are quite soft and the long ones are prone to corrosion/snapping. Will make your life a lot easier in the future if the pump has to come off again. You will find a lot of corroded fasteners on vehicles this age, I always try to replace with new wherever possible, may cost a bit more to do a job but if it is a keeper then you will save yourself future hassle.

upload_2017-8-27_19-49-23.png
 
Thanks for that! I've now heard back from the previous owners garage of choice and no cambelt change is on record. So.. looks like that'll need to be done as she is now overdue. Is anyone available by any miracle to help me with this? I can obviously go get the belt and tensioner and stuff but i dont have much in the way of tools from where i am working now (on the drive with a dead truck..) let alone locking keys and pullers etc i dont have in my big box in the garage anyway.

On a positive note.. dropped off the rad this morning at Arrow Radiators in Avonmouth for a strip down, clean and pressure test with a re-core and a repaint to finish up. Looking forward to seeing it all done! Its a 48hr turn around too which i thought was more than reasonable.
 
It's a bit far to drive to Bristol sadly....

You will need a holding tool for the crankshaft and a puller for the pulley and it's possibly worth getting a replacement as they don't last forever. I can probably winkle out the pictures I took when I did mine.

What price did they quote for the rad if you don't mind me asking. 48 hours isn't a bad time for a recore.
 
I think it was about 120 all in but i'll conferm tomorrow. In my head i was happy to pay whatever a 'new' one would cost as i appreciate its hands on work too. Normally its same day but they needed to order the cores but i said no worries on that front.. truck is still in peices so bigger fish to fry!

I see a little inspection cover i think so i'll snap a pic in there for your eyes and if you guys think its safe to travel so to speak i'll make the journey wherever that may be. I'd rather travel and have the job done right as ive said before.

I know even though im changing so much of the coolant system i'll be looking at it for weeks and panicing at the slightest drop of water on the floor! Edit: i wondered from cambelt back to cooling system sorry... same thing applies though!

Edit again.. thats what hotels are for anyway.. overnight stops and the use of a shower you dont need to clean after getting oily and the wife bans you from the house.
 
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120 hmm can get a replacement rad for 80... but if you have a metal tank one and they do a copper coring then it's probably worth the extra. You might want to see what state the intercooler is in as well - they can be recored too and a new cheap intercooler is 140 so that's certainly worth recoring if it's gone.

If you mean the small inspection cover on the drivers side that is circular and has three bolts don't bother. That's for a tool to hold the timing belt whilst you swap the injection pump so you don't have to retime the engine. If the belt is suspect, or of unknown age swap it don't waste time faffing about looking because it needs swapping regardless.

Not sure what you mean about the hotel though...
 
Intercooler is in good nick, at least seems it and fins are all in place etc so leaving that be. Washing it out it held the water with no leaking, i know its not under 15psi at this point but a good indication at this point that its ok jist mucky inside.

My rad is the copper/brass jobby with a metal oil cooler part, i could see alu ones online for about 100 but its a 50/50 thought on this.. im sure some will argue recore mine and others will say bin it and buy new. The guys could have supplied me a new one if i wanted.. time will tell if i made the right choice!

Hotel was for travelling to get the truck done right.. if its a long journey to have it done properly i'd rather that then 5 minutes away and it not done correctly and/or other problems not sorted at that time if there is any. Hence hotel for overnight stop if required.

Yeah that was the casing i was on about so i guess i wont bother. I now know it needs doing but as i say shes sat on my drive so wether or not i could risk driving "up country" to get this done or if i needed to have it done locally.
 
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