More importantly, have you got any history as to when the timing belt was last changed? If its has also been neglected then that may have been overlooked too, every 72000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first) IIRC. A broken belt with bent pushrods etc is something to avoid.
Loud cracking noise - rotational with rev's
- Thread starter Coffee Addict
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
Currently trying to track this information. Seller says it was done but has no receipt. He has however used the same garage for many years so the search through there system has begun. I'll be looking for a knowledgable member to do the cam belt change for me should this arise.. i'm bristol based but will travel to know its done correctly. Seen quite a few horror stories with things not being tightened correctly and keys being damaged etc. Also someone who has done there fair share will be able to spot any other potential issues while they are at it and i can sort there and then and it not bite me in the ass later. From reading up i'll be needing the belt and tensioners and there is a few seals that need to be bought at the same time. Ive bookmarked a page on the PC (on phone now) with a shopping list if this arises.
Im really thankful for all the suggestions and extra thoughts going into this so please keep them coming. The engine and everything around it is coated in oil so any idea's there is welcome. The left side of the engine while standing at the bonnet is fairly clean without much on it, the right side however is completely plastered in it right the way down to the sump and ultimately on the floor. If for example it was the rocker cover gasket (the highest one?) Shouldn't the oil be sort of uniform down both sides?
I could be dealing with more than one leak of course and not putting that out of the question. See in my thread with the egr removal the turbo housing is dry top side and the oil is higher so dont think its coming from the turbo or turbo feed. Its also round the front a bit as you can see by the caked up tensioner.
Only time ive played with anything rocker related was an old Honda to repaint it in red as every owner did so i'll once again put my hands up and say i know nout.
I'll get and fire a load of pics into this topic when i get 5 mins later and a torch to highlight it a bit.
Ta
Mark
Im really thankful for all the suggestions and extra thoughts going into this so please keep them coming. The engine and everything around it is coated in oil so any idea's there is welcome. The left side of the engine while standing at the bonnet is fairly clean without much on it, the right side however is completely plastered in it right the way down to the sump and ultimately on the floor. If for example it was the rocker cover gasket (the highest one?) Shouldn't the oil be sort of uniform down both sides?
I could be dealing with more than one leak of course and not putting that out of the question. See in my thread with the egr removal the turbo housing is dry top side and the oil is higher so dont think its coming from the turbo or turbo feed. Its also round the front a bit as you can see by the caked up tensioner.
Only time ive played with anything rocker related was an old Honda to repaint it in red as every owner did so i'll once again put my hands up and say i know nout.
I'll get and fire a load of pics into this topic when i get 5 mins later and a torch to highlight it a bit.
Ta
Mark
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
This is what I'm thinking - the particulate crud on stuff is bits of ground up belt caused by oil falling on it - but theres precious little way of getting leaking oil on there - even if the rocker cover leaks the fan will blow it backwards away from the belt. Now power steering fluid.... if the bearing on the PAS pump fails it leaks fluid over the belt and makes a loud cracking noise....
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
If you are confident with the spanners a timing belt is easy on the 300 - if you are happy pulling belt tensioners off and dealing with stuck fasteners you wont have issues with a cambelt swap. You do need a puller for the crank pulley and a holding tool for it to do it back up, but drill bits and screwdrivers are more than sufficient to accurately set the timing. I take the radiator out so it doenst get damaged as it's a convenient time to do a full coolant swap and flush as well.
The trick as you note is getting the crank bolt done tight enough - that's where an expensive holding tool is needed. If you are going to keep the car a while its an expense worth laying out for though.
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
I'd certainly have a crack if i had another pair of eyes with me. (Any takers if required? Expenses and time will be covered of course). im not scared to get stuck in.. if im foolish and break something then grrr and i buy a new one. An engine however isnt so cheap to replace.
Armed with a new longer breaker bar, im about to go out and tackle the job. I have both belt sizes to hand at this point also.
It is worth noting at this point the owner said his mechanic told him the steering box was leaking, this however could be the pump and the fan blasting across.. something i hadnt thought off but i will certainly check when im at it. I will photo as much as i can this afternoon and let you guys see what im working with.
Rad out coolant flush is no worries.. im currently flushing through at present so i'll hold off on the big refill until we find out about this cambelt.
Thanks again,
Mark
Armed with a new longer breaker bar, im about to go out and tackle the job. I have both belt sizes to hand at this point also.
It is worth noting at this point the owner said his mechanic told him the steering box was leaking, this however could be the pump and the fan blasting across.. something i hadnt thought off but i will certainly check when im at it. I will photo as much as i can this afternoon and let you guys see what im working with.
Rad out coolant flush is no worries.. im currently flushing through at present so i'll hold off on the big refill until we find out about this cambelt.
Thanks again,
Mark
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
Ok, this has taken forever! With my internet cutting out then crashing the pages etc it was serious testing my patience.
Went out and purchased these.. Any excuse for some new tools huh.
AAAAAAAAND now we're at a standstill on the pic front again... GRRRRRRRRRR!
Where can I upload tooooooooooo?
Went out and purchased these.. Any excuse for some new tools huh.
AAAAAAAAND now we're at a standstill on the pic front again... GRRRRRRRRRR!
Where can I upload tooooooooooo?
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
How far did you get - still having issues?
Photowise, https://www.thebalance.com/top-free-image-hosting-websites-1357014
Photowise, https://www.thebalance.com/top-free-image-hosting-websites-1357014
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
Just uploading to Imgur now and see what happens.
New tensioner and belt is on, the old belt was actually ok on the underside with the ribs, no tears etc on that.
New tensioner solved the noise issue straight away (Checked by starting with aux belt off first as suggested)
With the new tools - longer breaker bar and some impact sockets I got the old tensioner budged. Right old state though as the pics will reveal!
I took a load of random pics of the pulleys etc to show how dry they are compared to the gunk on the tensioner and then some of the side of the block to see what you guy think about this oil leak.
Only thing I felt had play was the alternator - this is charging fine at present and making no noise but its on the back of my mind for the future.
Belt off change was a quick one really, ordered both side belts the erm 1580 and 1595. I have the other size here as a spare in case I actually make it to the sailsbury meet and someone needs one.
Once they upload i'll fire them on and then its onto your keen eyes to tell me what I've missed and or the state of things.
Cheers,
Mark.
New tensioner and belt is on, the old belt was actually ok on the underside with the ribs, no tears etc on that.
New tensioner solved the noise issue straight away (Checked by starting with aux belt off first as suggested)
With the new tools - longer breaker bar and some impact sockets I got the old tensioner budged. Right old state though as the pics will reveal!
I took a load of random pics of the pulleys etc to show how dry they are compared to the gunk on the tensioner and then some of the side of the block to see what you guy think about this oil leak.
Only thing I felt had play was the alternator - this is charging fine at present and making no noise but its on the back of my mind for the future.
Belt off change was a quick one really, ordered both side belts the erm 1580 and 1595. I have the other size here as a spare in case I actually make it to the sailsbury meet and someone needs one.
Once they upload i'll fire them on and then its onto your keen eyes to tell me what I've missed and or the state of things.
Cheers,
Mark.
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
It is still possible to read the markings on the belt then to get a length from it?
The oil is a mystery - lets see what the pictures show....
The oil is a mystery - lets see what the pictures show....
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
I should add while we're waiting on the photo - Now I've fitted the new tensioner, moving that was straight forward to release the tension, using the new 24" breaker bar I had to get my body weight behind the old one, the new one I could have moved easily with my old bar. Still.. It'll be needed elsewhere I'm sure.
(Just uploading to see if this works.. Will re-edit if this shows!)
Yeah that'll do!
I fitted the right belt, I looked at them side by side stretched out but also those markings on the tensioner showed me I was in position and when it's 'stretched' so that was handy.
Pictures with a belt are the old one. Had a really oily top to it however. Except the pic with the new tensioner. This has taken an AGE to upload so no order I'm afraid here goes; Please refer over to the members projects area and look for LULU for more underside pic's.
(Just uploading to see if this works.. Will re-edit if this shows!)
Yeah that'll do!
I fitted the right belt, I looked at them side by side stretched out but also those markings on the tensioner showed me I was in position and when it's 'stretched' so that was handy.
Pictures with a belt are the old one. Had a really oily top to it however. Except the pic with the new tensioner. This has taken an AGE to upload so no order I'm afraid here goes; Please refer over to the members projects area and look for LULU for more underside pic's.
Last edited:
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
Could you be losing steering fluid from the hoses at the bottom of the top up reservoir on the left side of the rad? That could get blown back onto the belt area....
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
I guess only so many pics per post? dunno what the hell is going on here
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
http://imgur.com/4mYu0Rd
http://imgur.com/7xry2mm
http://imgur.com/joafU01
http://imgur.com/dPEZcxJ
http://imgur.com/ywi0wI8
Ok now its all a link.. Guys I am done! Please edit to fix whatever the hell I've broken!
Last edited:
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
OK that's a smaller alt pulley (and doesn't look like a standard alt either). I'd check the belt length and make sure you have the 1580mm one not the 1595mm
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
Im 99% sure it is the 1580 so all good. What do you think to the pics?
Deleted this part as James answered in seperate s.o.s thread. Thanks again for all replies
Deleted this part as James answered in seperate s.o.s thread. Thanks again for all replies
Last edited:
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
I think you have a leaking down the side of the block - either a rocker box gasket or a P-gasket, or both is leaking.
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
I have a receipt here for dec 16 for a new rocker gasket being fitted. So. I'll degrease what i can and fingers crossed all that top oil is from before and thats now sorted i guess. However - she is still loosing oil so something somewhere is still letting it go.
Yesterday i had a panic moment about a hole underneath with in a different thread i got told this was a wading hole so nothing to worry about. Came back and then she let herself go all over the floor (coolant).
This appears to be coming from the water pump so this pump and seal i will be changing. Looks like i'll be doing this P seal while i'm at it. If nothing else its all peace of mind. At least i know how to do the tensioner and belt now! I'll confirm the 1580 belt while i'm at it too.
Yesterday i had a panic moment about a hole underneath with in a different thread i got told this was a wading hole so nothing to worry about. Came back and then she let herself go all over the floor (coolant).
This appears to be coming from the water pump so this pump and seal i will be changing. Looks like i'll be doing this P seal while i'm at it. If nothing else its all peace of mind. At least i know how to do the tensioner and belt now! I'll confirm the 1580 belt while i'm at it too.
There aren't many things that can cause a 'high-up' oil leak, rocker gasket (and don't forget the three seals on the hold-down bolts), the combined intake/exhaust gasket is prone to breaking up, this can also cause a mess. Head gasket is another but I think that is more towards the front of the engine. Just give it a really good clean down and then go for a short drive and see if you can locate the source, if nothing shows just keep driving it and looking every so often
chris-the-gerbil
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 994
- Location
- Leeds
OK looking at your other thread where your water pump has crapped out - long thread coming up. If there is any teaching of how to suck eggs I apologise.
You have to take the waterpump off to fix obviously - don't skip on a cheap one as good OEM spec ones are only about £25. Get a gasket. Now to get the pump off you have to undo three long bolts on the lower part of the pump. These go through the pump, through the housing and then through the P gasket and into the block. Look up above about how-to swap the leaking P gasket and you will see.
I would strongly suggest that you replace the P-gasket when you do the pump. The bolts are going to be disturbed which upsets the seal on the gasket, the gasket may be leaking, and it's been installed for a long time. I'd swap that gasket because its only a couple of quid and a good insurance against future problems.
Now your gunk that is on everything from the belt. Looks like belt grindings - could be mixed up with coolant form the water pump before it let go. That can give a greasy feel. The rest of the front of the engine looks clean so swap the pump and see how we go...
Now filling... that's a fun thing. The header/expansion tank on a Disco 300tdi is not the highest point of the system. Fill it in the expansion tank and you airlock the head. So. Look on the rad top - there is a bung. There is a similar bung on the top of the thermostat housing. If they are plastic take them off and chuck them and order the proper brass replacements - again a quid each at most. Get a new thermostat as well. Sort all the cooling system at once.
Once you've fitted the new stat with it's bleed hole upper most, I fill mine as follows. I've flushed and drained the block (drain bung is on the front left side fo the block - it's obvious to see when you swap the P-gasket.) so drain plugs back in, and 5.5 litres of antifreeze concentrate in the header tank. Slowly fill the RADIATOR with clean water (deionised ideally) and eventually it fills fully. Do it slowly letting it settle. The level in the header tank will rise to about half full. Fit the bung to the rad and also the header tank cap. Now fill the rest of the engine through the top of the thermostat until full. Bung in there. A small headspace is fine it will push it out but you can usually get it mostly full.
Once both those bungs are in place and sealed - check the header tank and top up to about half if needed. Start engine and check for leaks... top up the header if needed.
Its easier if the car is parked facing uphill but I've never airlocked mine at all following this way even on the flat or facing downhill. Just be wary and keep an eye on the temp gauge for a bit - 300's really do not like overheating.
You have to take the waterpump off to fix obviously - don't skip on a cheap one as good OEM spec ones are only about £25. Get a gasket. Now to get the pump off you have to undo three long bolts on the lower part of the pump. These go through the pump, through the housing and then through the P gasket and into the block. Look up above about how-to swap the leaking P gasket and you will see.
I would strongly suggest that you replace the P-gasket when you do the pump. The bolts are going to be disturbed which upsets the seal on the gasket, the gasket may be leaking, and it's been installed for a long time. I'd swap that gasket because its only a couple of quid and a good insurance against future problems.
Now your gunk that is on everything from the belt. Looks like belt grindings - could be mixed up with coolant form the water pump before it let go. That can give a greasy feel. The rest of the front of the engine looks clean so swap the pump and see how we go...
Now filling... that's a fun thing. The header/expansion tank on a Disco 300tdi is not the highest point of the system. Fill it in the expansion tank and you airlock the head. So. Look on the rad top - there is a bung. There is a similar bung on the top of the thermostat housing. If they are plastic take them off and chuck them and order the proper brass replacements - again a quid each at most. Get a new thermostat as well. Sort all the cooling system at once.
Once you've fitted the new stat with it's bleed hole upper most, I fill mine as follows. I've flushed and drained the block (drain bung is on the front left side fo the block - it's obvious to see when you swap the P-gasket.) so drain plugs back in, and 5.5 litres of antifreeze concentrate in the header tank. Slowly fill the RADIATOR with clean water (deionised ideally) and eventually it fills fully. Do it slowly letting it settle. The level in the header tank will rise to about half full. Fit the bung to the rad and also the header tank cap. Now fill the rest of the engine through the top of the thermostat until full. Bung in there. A small headspace is fine it will push it out but you can usually get it mostly full.
Once both those bungs are in place and sealed - check the header tank and top up to about half if needed. Start engine and check for leaks... top up the header if needed.
Its easier if the car is parked facing uphill but I've never airlocked mine at all following this way even on the flat or facing downhill. Just be wary and keep an eye on the temp gauge for a bit - 300's really do not like overheating.
Coffee Addict
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
- Location
- Bristol
Ive ordered a p gasket which will be in tomorrow and ive picked up a water pump (decent one) - now.. in my haste as im going to tackle a few jobs at once i got the degreaser out and the sprayer. Im a little lost for 4 reasons. 3 are these breather or vac lines ive managed to ping off. One i can see is next to the fuel line but not sure which of the 2 to fit and one on the other side. Cant seem to see where they're supposed to fit. Looking back at previous pictures though these 3 were all off already? Seems odd. Pic shows empty fitment right by fuel line though?
4th thing is this cap.. wasnt on my drive before i started. I have been blasting underneath so is this a cover from something you recognise or a bit of debris from somewhere ive managed to dislodge?
Thanks again for the help.
Mark
P.s you are aloud to tell me to down tools and stop as i clearly dont have a clue.. however.. you'll need to come round if thats the case!
4th thing is this cap.. wasnt on my drive before i started. I have been blasting underneath so is this a cover from something you recognise or a bit of debris from somewhere ive managed to dislodge?
Thanks again for the help.
Mark
P.s you are aloud to tell me to down tools and stop as i clearly dont have a clue.. however.. you'll need to come round if thats the case!
