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80 quid to have it galvanised is the least of your worries buddy, you will end up pouring thousands into it, may as well build something that is going to last.
 
80 quid to have it galvanised is the least of your worries buddy, you will end up pouring thousands into it, may as well build something that is going to last.
Genuine question, where is it £80 to get a chassis galvanised? I’ve got no idea about prices, but if it was less than a couple of hundred then it’s a no-brainer really.
 
nice to see its arrived you can buy a zink primer off ebay that does the job or go to tor at birtley and get it from there and some enamel dont buy there thinner its expensive and you dont need it you can just use celly gunwash from the body shop place left further up the road in the estate thats what i did stripped everything and get cracking stock up on flap discs wire wheels knotted wire discs for grinder etc and de rust everything best think i bought was a blast cabinet everything comes out like new,then lash tones of primer and paint on everything rub the lot dow da sand all body panels etc so you have some nice clean parts to play with.ref putting back end on i would sort ya tub out and use that to line it all up then weld it ive personally never had to put one on but i would be making some extra plates dressed around it too for added strength as you dont want to pull ya back end out when doing some pulling or towing,measure once and check measure twice check again measure three times and check again thats my rule as ive made an arse of a few things in the past which ive never done again.if you look at mine in the picture i had everything prepped and sanded and painted before it got back from being galved so everything was nice and shiny its been sitting so long now its all rusting again and doesn't look like that anymore lol i need to get it painted just finding someone to do it properly is the issue ive seen some paint jobs done by pros pmsl looked like it was painted with a roller.If i had a booth would do it myself when its your own you make sure its rite or if you like me i am a totally fanny so it has to be or i would start again.
 
Its usually around 80 a ton, or was the last time I checked, just phone up and ask, the only thing will be size but ive seen bigger getting done.
 
Shop around, look for companys that do agricultural work. Re the rear end, build a jig around the existing, cut it out then weld the new one in, no need for the tub to be attached.
 
good idea never done one before thank god aint needed too mine was a 1989 looked like it had just came out the factory before it was galved lol
 
nice to see its arrived you can buy a zink primer off ebay that does the job or go to tor at birtley and get it from there and some enamel dont buy there thinner its expensive and you dont need it you can just use celly gunwash from the body shop place left further up the road in the estate thats what i did stripped everything and get cracking stock up on flap discs wire wheels knotted wire discs for grinder etc and de rust everything best think i bought was a blast cabinet everything comes out like new,then lash tones of primer and paint on everything rub the lot dow da sand all body panels etc so you have some nice clean parts to play with.ref putting back end on i would sort ya tub out and use that to line it all up then weld it ive personally never had to put one on but i would be making some extra plates dressed around it too for added strength as you dont want to pull ya back end out when doing some pulling or towing,measure once and check measure twice check again measure three times and check again thats my rule as ive made an arse of a few things in the past which ive never done again.if you look at mine in the picture i had everything prepped and sanded and painted before it got back from being galved so everything was nice and shiny its been sitting so long now its all rusting again and doesn't look like that anymore lol i need to get it painted just finding someone to do it properly is the issue ive seen some paint jobs done by pros pmsl looked like it was painted with a roller.If i had a booth would do it myself when its your own you make sure its rite or if you like me i am a totally fanny so it has to be or i would start again.
I know the place at birtley will have a look. got a mate should get me plenty flap discs etc from work. By the way I spoke to Birtley Galvernising and they only do brand new metal, says they would not touch old chassis.
Shop around, look for companys that do agricultural work. Re the rear end, build a jig around the existing, cut it out then weld the new one in, no need for the tub to be attached.
I couldn't weld for my life, but know plenty welders that will do it for me. Give me more info on building a Jig please Nobber,
 
well leeds galv do it alsong as you get it shot blasted ,they drop it into tanks of acid to clean it etc then it gets washed off and dried etc,i contacted birtley once they simply ignored me,its worth getting done though if ya chassis is mint am gonna get my td5 done when i can be arsed to strip it shouldn't take too long waiting for better weather.
 
well leeds galv do it alsong as you get it shot blasted ,they drop it into tanks of acid to clean it etc then it gets washed off and dried etc,i contacted birtley once they simply ignored me,its worth getting done though if ya chassis is mint am gonna get my td5 done when i can be arsed to strip it shouldn't take too long waiting for better weather.
Do you know how much they charge?, Might give the Blaydon one a try too
 
I know the place at birtley will have a look. got a mate should get me plenty flap discs etc from work. By the way I spoke to Birtley Galvernising and they only do brand new metal, says they would not touch old chassis.

I couldn't weld for my life, but know plenty welders that will do it for me. Give me more info on building a Jig please Nobber,

If you cant weld you wont be building a jig, if it were me I would use box section and/or angle bolted to various parts of the rear chassis making sure it cant move or be moved, I would use the rear tub mountings as alignment holes, but this is off the top of my head, it would be a lot easier if I had the thing sat in front of me.
 
If you cant weld you wont be building a jig, if it were me I would use box section and/or angle bolted to various parts of the rear chassis making sure it cant move or be moved, I would use the rear tub mountings as alignment holes, but this is off the top of my head, it would be a lot easier if I had the thing sat in front of me.
I get what you mean by using angle iron to hold it in place. I know a good welder, will have a word I'm sure he will be able to do it.
Thanks
 
You are welcome, chassis prep is the biggest, most important part of what you are about to do, its the foundation of your project, I would much rather have a banger sat ontop of a solid galvy chassis than a 4k paint job sat ontop of a patchwork quilt.
 
Just a couple of quick questions while we are on the subject of welding, hadn't noticed before but there are no front outriggers on the chassis, Now he had the new spare crossmember so I'm hoping these are in one of the crates when they come, if not I know they are not dear to buy.
Also the front shocks and springs Terafirma, will I have to put the same on the rear?, not sure if they are heavy duty, or normal. with a bit of luck they might also be in with the rest of the spares.
 

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Mate you need to get some photos of where the outriggers should be, if they are missing thats going to cause you no end of headaches getting new ones aligned correctly.
 
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