Looking for advise

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jaydisco4x4

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Southport
Just looking for some advise please I’m viewing a d2 tomorrow with slight corrosion to the chassis it’s only in 1 spot on the passenger side the rest of the chassis is fine, would this be a easy fix or am I best walking away, thanks
 

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All D2s end up with rusty rear chassis, more or less. If it looks grotty from the outside the inside will be awful. (Basically the chassis where it dips beside the fuel tank rusts from the inside out.)
That looks worse than mine did before I had large parts of it cut out and new thicker plate welded in.
You can get 1/2 or even 1/3 chassis to fit, not too expensive, but it depends on what you want to do.
 
I am no disco expert but that looks rather crusty;)
Go and look but be prepared for it to be worse in person, Is that were the bump stop should be? if it is then it shows the lack of love that disco has had. so expect some more to show up on viewing:D

If you dont have the DIY skills or the wallet, you may want to look a little longer:).

J
 
I’ll probably still view it but I think I’ll take a hammer with me an give it a good look over thanks for the reply’s
What is the ruling on taking a hammer to inspect a vehicle. Just thinking if more rust patch or section falls off, are you not damaging a sight as seen vehicle. Especially when you walk away, are you liable for causing more as if you damage a car body.
 
I’ll probably still view it but I think I’ll take a hammer with me an give it a good look over thanks for the reply’s

Small ballpein, no pointey stuff;)

What is the ruling on taking a hammer to inspect a vehicle. Just thinking if more rust patch or section falls off, are you not damaging a sight as seen vehicle. Especially when you walk away, are you liable for causing more as if you damage a car body.

I suspect the owners face would tell before even tapping anything:eek:.

But that rust looks close to suspension fixings I.E MOT failure I think;).

J
 
Thanks for the concern i have been told I can check over the chassis properly, I wouldn’t go banging on someone’s car without them knowing firsto_O he’s a elderly man who got his grandson to take the pictures so he can’t tell me much, yes a hammer is not perfect it was a quick reply I’d probably use a screwdriver :p saves getting it home and needing a full chassis
 
Thanks for the concern i have been told I can check over the chassis properly, I wouldn’t go banging on someone’s car without them knowing firsto_O he’s a elderly man who got his grandson to take the pictures so he can’t tell me much, yes a hammer is not perfect it was a quick reply I’d probably use a screwdriver :p saves getting it home and needing a full chassis
Must admit I use a screwdriver, turn up in a set of overalls and make it clear I m going to examine it properly.
The look on their faces when I hand them big bits of rust that have fallen off, is quite fun, altho it proves going there was a bit of a waste of time.
but then checking a car out is never a waste of time!
 
Hahah I can imagine the look on there face, if they advertise it as solid they can’t really say much when the rust falls off under inspection :oops: turns out it does need welding, local fabricator said half a day for £150 but as every discovery there’s a lot more niggles to work my way through, think the exhaust manifold gasket has moved and is blocking it, I’ll definitely have more posts the next few weeks :)
 
I've seen people/sellers on here say they will refuse to let anyone near their chassis with a screwdriver/hammer etc
Why would you refuse unless you know it's knackered?
You won't do any harm unless it's not solid metal
 
Hahah I can imagine the look on there face, if they advertise it as solid they can’t really say much when the rust falls off under inspection :oops: turns out it does need welding, local fabricator said half a day for £150 but as every discovery there’s a lot more niggles to work my way through, think the exhaust manifold gasket has moved and is blocking it, I’ll definitely have more posts the next few weeks :)
If the exhaust manifold has not been done it'll prolly need it, so better to go ahead and do it. If all studs etc are intact, with a bit of very careful removal, (cannot emphasise enough HOW careful) you can take it off get it refaced and grind all the webbing away, then replace it.
Beats the nightmares a lot of us have had, me included, of snapped off studs etc!
If that quote includes removal of the fool tank, it looks a bit too good to be true, but then maybe it isn't as extensive as others have been. And make sure he cuts the rot out rather than plating over it, and he does it with thicker plate than original.
My bloke charged me £200 plus Vat, (I think) and he struggled with removing and replacing the tank. which he was decent enough to not charge me extra for.
 
I've seen people/sellers on here say they will refuse to let anyone near their chassis with a screwdriver/hammer etc
Why would you refuse unless you know it's knackered?
You won't do any harm unless it's not solid metal
The harm there would be chips into any protective finish, on my disco the original LR under seal + Ziebart coating which has and worked very well, so no rust or repairs requiring welding in the 24+ years… but then only 49,347 miles on the clock. I expect it would go to auction if i ever needed to sell :)
 
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The harm is there would be chips into any protective finish, on my disco the original LR under seal + Ziebart coating which has and worked very well, so no rust or repairs requiring welding in the 24+ years… but then only 49,347 miles on the clock. I expect it would go to auction if i ever needed to sell :)
That's a fair point, but you wouldn't go investigating a tidy motor. I'm on about rusty sheds with piles of crud, mud and rust, patched patches etc. A sound chassis or bulkhead etc doesn't need touching, i agree you'll do more harm than good
 
If the exhaust manifold has not been done it'll prolly need it, so better to go ahead and do it. If all studs etc are intact, with a bit of very careful removal, (cannot emphasise enough HOW careful) you can take it off get it refaced and grind all the webbing away, then replace it.
Beats the nightmares a lot of us have had, me included, of snapped off studs etc!
If that quote includes removal of the fool tank, it looks a bit too good to be true, but then maybe it isn't as extensive as others have been. And make sure he cuts the rot out rather than plating over it, and he does it with thicker plate than original.
My bloke charged me £200 plus Vat, (I think) and he struggled with removing and replacing the tank. which he was decent enough to not charge me extra for.

to be honest I’ll probably send it to my local specialist to do iv never done one before and I don’t fancy starting with this lol iv heard about the studs snapping I’ll leave it to some who who knows abit more, the welding will be done by md engineering on instagram his work looks spot on give them a look if your in the northwest, it’s parked up for the time being but I’ll hopefully start the work over the next few weeks, thanks for the advise
 
Nor does filler:D
i shared a Cortina once with other youths and we filled the holes in the sills with cardboard with a skim filler over the top, for the front seats that were detaching them selves from the floor I used the lids from 4x4 junction boxes, the boxes were free issue back then so used to sandwich the seats bolts to the rotten floor, so with no cost which the other youths thought was a wonderful idea, and with the cardboard provided by Kelloggs also FOC…fantastic.:D
 
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