Freelander 1 Looking at buying a FL1 06 that's had the prop removed.... advice please

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shaunclark_sc

Member
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16
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Leeds
Hi All....

A friend of a friend has a FL1 2006 TD4 that's had the prop removed as it's failed and I'm considering buying it.... as that's the only explanation I've been given what are the risks? Would it be a matter of bearing replacements or a VCU or potentially both OR maybe something I'm not considering here? Is it something that I should stay away from as it may be a costly mistake?

The diff also has a slight leak too, could this be a result of the failing prop?

Also it's a smokey on startup... they seem to think this is an injector fault and may need replacement injector... how much do people think this may cost?

Al advice greatly appreciated!

TIA
 
Buy an 05 Freelander that is complete as I think it's cheaper to tax.
Avoid a 2WD Freelander, unless you don't mind having hassle with insurance and aren't wanting to use it in snow.

The diff leak could be a red herring, but could also mean it's been damaged by a failing VCU and or bad tyre maintenance.
Best avoid it, unless it's a top spec model that's extremely cheap.
 
Nodge68 said:
Buy an 05 Freelander that is complete as I think it's cheaper to tax.
Avoid a 2WD Freelander, unless you don't mind having hassle with insurance and aren't wanting to use it in snow.

The diff leak could be a red herring, but could also mean it's been damaged by a failing VCU and or bad tyre maintenance.
Best avoid it, unless it's a top spec model that's extremely cheap.
Click to expand...

It's a 55 plate 118k HSE TD4 2 door for £700. I think that is cheap. Insurance isn't an issue as it's going on a trade policy (I buy/sell motorcycles part time) BUT I would intend on getting it to 4wd as I want to use it in the snow! ha

Andy - I'll search that thread down, thanks!
 
So, having read various threads including the one linked above... it may not be worth the buy due to the expensive to replace IRD.

Is there no way to test the IRD from on the ground?

I think I'll leave this one anyway - potential VCU/Rear diff/IRD all sound like hassle I'd rather not let myself in for!

So I've found another FL1 local... 2004 (54) another TD4 HSE with 115k miles. How can I check the VCU/Rear diff/IRD on viewing? I read in other threads to check the IRD oil isn't metalic or has filings in... anything else to confirm?

Thanks again all....
 
There is a limit to what you can reasonably check when buying/viewing a vehicle. I'm not sure I would want anyone jacking my car up to do the OWUT and certainly not draining the IRD oil. If it has got good servicing documentation, check to see if it has had a replacement vcu. If not and it is high mileage, expect to replace the vcu. A test drive is your best guide, as previously said, reverse on full lock and listen for grumbles. Freelanders resist reversing on full lock to some extent so doing so on tickover won't be possible if the vcu is working. Stay clear of ones with no prop and/ or mismatched tyres.

Col
 
I've done OWU test on several before buying. Use the car jack, pop the centre cap off and take a 32mm socket and a breaker bar - you can tell if it is tight or not without taking bags of shopping to hang on the bar to make 5kg !!! My torque wrench clicks at about 70 - 80 lbft when they are too tight as a rule of thumb !
 
You can tell if the VCU is stiff, simply by jacking up a rear wheel and trying to turn it by hand. If it turns slowly by hand, the VCU is ok. If you can't turn it by hand, the VCU is dead.
 
If you buy a Freelander always budget for a replacement VCU - it'll probably need one, if it doesn't then you'll be pleasantly surprised rather than disappointed when it needs one.

If the car has trouble reversing on full lock, then who knows how long its been in that condition and what damage its done - demand an oil change on the IRD and an inspection of the old oil. Even experienced Freelander drivers can have trouble detecting if the VCU is to stiff using the reverse on full lock - so if you think "s**t its bad" - then it will be! If they won't allow it, walk away. You could get a garage to do it - but tell them to loosen the fill plug before the drain to stop handing the car back with any embarrassing problems and take the correct oil along for them to use (can't remember off the top of my head what it is - a search will find it).

If an IRD has been damaged but hasn't 'gone' (banging etc) rebuild kits can be bought for under £200 - but it is a lot of effort to remove, rebuild and reinstall it (and therefore costly at shop rates). Once the gears are damaged, then there is no inexpensive way to rebuild one.
 
Reverse on full lock int a sure test. Especially if the VCU and props are missing. Happened to someone on ere but can't say who. Yer knows who yer is. ;)
 
If you know your way round a tool box and can happily get grubby then go for it.
I've just bought a 06 td4 with 133k for 350
Just needed to reckon the turbo, which I put on today.
 
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