Well was advertised for £1895.
Price was dropped to £1700 within half an hour of me being there and looking round it.
After test drive and me mentioning gearbox and chassis cover up was told would drop to £1625 as other buyer was part exing a car.
Other thing is was on the road when I came to view not outside a house. Seller was a self employed trader who also delivered cars with his 4x4 and trailer. Not a problem I guess as long as I cult sign paperwork in his house.
But does mean might not be in his name. I'm not sure how it works with traders on logbook.
He obviously wants to get rid of this vehicle, so it could be a pain in the arse or it could be a bargain. Unfortunately only you can decide that.
1. Re the chassis rust :you can buy prepared repair panels and sensible money, just clean up the old section and weld the new one over the top, job done.
2. Re the autobox : Once the engine is up to temp; to get the auto "off the line" you really do need to give it a good bootful. Once it's up to maybe 25mph progressively let the throttle down a bit and you'll find - assuming the autobox is ok - that you get good running from 30mph upwards and it should go into Torque Converter lock-up at approx 55mph, on a light, 'cruising' throttle. If it doesn't go into lock-up (feels like another gear) at about 55 on a light throttle, something is wrong.
Is this a good car for you? Well first and foremost are you happy 'on the tools'? If you are not an enthusiastic DIY-er, walk away.
If all the windows/mirrors/central locking works as it should, I would offer him £1400 cash and then fix whatever needs fixing - but that's just me.
Servicing:
1. Change all oils (engine, autobox, tranny box, and both diffs) and all filters;
2. Change brake fluid and coolant ( these won't have been done !!!)
3. Clean the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold with brake & clutch cleaner;
4. Remove all brake pads, clean caliper pistons and re-fit;
5. Grease all prop nipples;
6. Check the functioning of all sensors using Hawkeye or Nano Evo.
Now you have a baseline to evaluate the performance of this car. It is essential to do the above first.
It will be improved by:
Modifications:
1. Removing the EGR valve - not just blocking it off, full removal;
2. If the exhaust downpipe still has a cat in it, buy and fit a De-cat downpipe;
3. Run tyres at these pressures: 33psi front; 36psi rear;
4. Clean out the intercooler;
5. Get a Dynachip Tuning re-map. Mike is a first class bloke and comes to your premises to do the job. It costs between £225 and £250 depending on ECU type but it'll be the best motoring money you've ever spent.
There's some food for thought. But in general, if you have the cash, take readies with you - it will make negotiating much better.
Re the paperwork, if this guy is not the registered keeper, he needs to have some method of proof that he has the right to sell it - or you could be buying a knocked-off motor.
ENSURE that the registered keeper has signed at the bottom of page 2 of the V5.
On the top of page 3 there is a section for traders selling cars. Also you need to get a paper receipt, here is one I always have with me:
"Sale contract, car – 21 November 2014
Seller: ????????????????????????????????
Buyer: M. JEBSON David, 2 Le Puy Cesset, 23350 La Cellette, France.
2000 Green Land Rover Discovery TD5 ES
Reg no: µ*********
VIN: *******************
I, ??????????????? the undersigned, being the legal owner of the above vehicle, sell it to
Mr. David JEBSON, for the sum of £ **** this day the ???????????? 2014.
Paid in full.
Seller..................................................................Buyer:......................................................
Signature..............................................................Signature:................................................
at:.......................................................................... at:..........................................................
Date: .......................................................................Date: