Location of door light switch?

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R

Rubberduck

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Northern Ireland
Hi,
I have my door cards off at the front of my 2004 Disco 2. I am trying to trace the door switch in the door for the courtesy lights.

The issue is that the automatic interior lights position stays on in the automatic (centre) position, the light goes off in the off position as it should for both the front and very rear light. The centre light had no bulb in it when I bought it, I put one in and it stays permanently on.

After searching many forums, I have found that there is no push switch like on common cars. The door cards are off to try and locate this elusive switch to try and get the contacts cleaned as mentioned in other threads. I have traced the wires to the central locking, electric windows, speakers and what I presume are the wires to the electric mirrors.

Can anyone pinpoint where the door light switch is? I am hopeless with wiring diagrams. I have searched for pictures of the interior doors and can't find any for weeks now.

Lastly, the bonnet switch was also disconnected on purchase, I reconnected it, set the alarm, and opened it, the alarm sounded as it should, so I am assuming this switch is fine. The alarm always sounds once on locking the Disco which highlights a door or bonnet open. Any other ideas out there? I hope someone can help me.

Many thanks,
Mark
 
The mis-lock sound when locking and interior lamp being on would normally point to the door switch being faulty on other vehicles, but unfortunately with the D2 they are now part of the lock unit.

Another one of the 700 improvements the D2 has over the D1
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Have you any ideas of how to fix this or do I just put up with it? If it's a case of putting up with it, that's cool, it's still streets ahead of my 08 diesel Zafira, £4,500 spent in 10 months!
 
read carefully the quoted part and if you know your volumetric alarm was active try to rule out by exclusion which part is at fault or at least isolate the fault somehow if you can...e.g, if the volumetric alarm will become active it means the trouble isnon the bonnet switch's circuit...or leave the windows open, lock and open doors one by one...the alarm must go off on the good switches and no action on the faulty one as it is already monitored as open... but as the passenger and tail doors are "all in one" if the fault is on that part of circuit this trick might not work
Partial arming
Partial arming allows protection of as much of the vehicle as possible if the alarm is armed with one or more doors or
the bonnet open.
Partial arming allows the vehicle alarm to be armed even if the following conditions exist. When the bonnet or door is
closed, the BCU activates the perimetric alarm and the volumetric alarm after 15 seconds have elapsed:
l The bonnet is not closed: If the bonnet is open when the alarm is armed, the BCU activates super locking and
volumetric sensing. In this condition, the alarm enters a partially armed state. All other functions of the alarm are
active and the BCU monitors the bonnet for a change of state. If the bonnet closes, the system is completely
armed.
l The passenger door, a rear door or the tail door is not closed: If a door is open when the alarm is armed, the BCU
does not activate super locking or volumetric sensing. In this condition the alarm enters a partially armed state.
All other alarm functions are armed and the BCU monitors the open door. If the door closes volumetric sensing
and super locking become active.
l Failure of a door latch switch: If a short circuit in the door latch switch occurs, the BCU presumes the door is not
closed. In this situation the BCU does not activate super locking or volumetric sensing. All other alarm functions
are armed.
l Damaged wiring harness: If a short circuit in the wiring harness for the door latch switch occurs, the BCU
presumes the door is not closed and does not activate super locking or volumetric sensing; all other alarm
functions are armed. If an open circuit in the wiring harness for the door latch switch occurs, the BCU presumes
the door is closed and arms the alarm as normal.
Click to expand...

if no joy with this tha fault is still traceable but not easy, those switches are normally closed , they open when you close the door so when a door is opened the switch closes to earth and the BCU will trigger the alarm... there could be two issues, one switch doesnt work or somewhere the wiring shorts to earth, unfortunately there are only two circuits, the driver's door and the other 3 doors which are all connected. if you want to find the faulty one you have to remove alll the door cards and unplug the actuators one by one:...unplug one - lock , if you get misslock plug it back, unplug next - lock... when you dont get the misslock that's the faulty one.

if you have basic electronics knowledge you can trace the faulty switch with a multimeter but you need RAVE to see the diagrams and connector views and measure on each doors wiring at the connector
 
Thanks for the replies. Sierrafery, I'm away out to try out your ideas. May as well remove the rest of the door cards after the initial test of windows open, as I have two cards off already. Thanks again, will keep ya posted if I get anywhere.
 
Well, I did as you suggested Sierrafery, what can I say? Fantastic!!!!!! I tried the drivers door and the alarm sounded. Next I tried the passenger side and..... Nothing! I removed the switch to the lock and..... We have a working alarm and courtesy lights, flamin' brilliant, well chuffed. Just going to get some contact cleaner to see if this solves the problem (Hopefully) Failing that, what's the best way forward for me? Been at this for weeks, glad I asked the question now.
 
if contact cleaner wont do the job(i doubt it would but maybe you-re lucky to be some corrosion not faulty microswitch) you can leave it unplugged and lock unlock the door by hand untill you get hold of a new latch assy... IMO second hand is not the best choice as you'll see that it's not very easy to replace.
 
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