Let’s play find the coolant!

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So the saga continues...

Last night was not good - had a blow out of the rear offside but luckily was by the services exit so managed to limp into the car park and change the tyre.

40 minutes later, on the motorway at 50 -> sudden loss of power. No smoke, just lost power and cut out.

So, things I’ve checked;
- no oil in coolant
- no coolant in the oil
- head temp start the time was 87-90 with direct IR measurement
- engine will crank but not fire
- sounds normal to crank
- cranked by with rocker cover off shows all moving
- push rods not bent, rocker arms intact
- solenoid clicks with power
- cranking gets diesel to the injectors

I’ve not taken the head off again and haven’t taken the injectors out.

Other details;
- just been filled from about 1/3 to full with diesel around 60 miles before
- running really well, no smoke
- run on motorway about 30 miles 45-50mph

I thought it’d be solenoid/lift pump issue but seem to be able to get fuel to the injectors.


Thoughts?
 
So the saga continues...

Last night was not good - had a blow out of the rear offside but luckily was by the services exit so managed to limp into the car park and change the tyre.

40 minutes later, on the motorway at 50 -> sudden loss of power. No smoke, just lost power and cut out.

So, things I’ve checked;
- no oil in coolant
- no coolant in the oil
- head temp start the time was 87-90 with direct IR measurement
- engine will crank but not fire
- sounds normal to crank
- cranked by with rocker cover off shows all moving
- push rods not bent, rocker arms intact
- solenoid clicks with power
- cranking gets diesel to the injectors

I’ve not taken the head off again and haven’t taken the injectors out.

Other details;
- just been filled from about 1/3 to full with diesel around 60 miles before
- running really well, no smoke
- run on motorway about 30 miles 45-50mph

I thought it’d be solenoid/lift pump issue but seem to be able to get fuel to the injectors.


Thoughts?

Collapsed air intake hose?
 
Thought it could be an option but the hose looks good. I haven’t checked the manifold and filter box so will give that a look

The hoses can collapse internally, with nothing visible on the outside, and sometimes the collapse is intermittent, so it will turn over, catch and die immediately as the hose collapses inside.
 
The hoses can collapse internally, with nothing visible on the outside, and sometimes the collapse is intermittent, so it will turn over, catch and die immediately as the hose collapses inside.

That is a good shout! I’ll take a gander later.

Other than that - does the solenoid’s click mean it is working or is it worth dismantling it anyway?

For a ‘simple’ engine it does seem to have some particular needs!
 
That is a good shout! I’ll take a gander later.

Other than that - does the solenoid’s click mean it is working or is it worth dismantling it anyway?

For a ‘simple’ engine it does seem to have some particular needs!

You could try removing the solenoid, or replacing it with another, but if there is fuel at the high pressure unions it must be working.

They are a simple engine, and usually work well. My guess is that you have a maintenance backlog, and that a number of things need replacing.
One you have done that, it should be reliable.
Go right through it, change all the filters, fluids, and rubber components. I usually do that straight away when I buy an old landrover.
The parts are inexpensive, and it saves hassle later.
 
You could try removing the solenoid, or replacing it with another, but if there is fuel at the high pressure unions it must be working.

They are a simple engine, and usually work well. My guess is that you have a maintenance backlog, and that a number of things need replacing.
One you have done that, it should be reliable.
Go right through it, change all the filters, fluids, and rubber components. I usually do that straight away when I buy an old landrover.
The parts are inexpensive, and it saves hassle later.

I imagine you’re right. I’ve done head gasket, hotspots, oil, coolant, air filter, oil filter, thermostat and clearances.

I get the feeling that, pending inspection of the air intake hose, this is a fuel issue but with getting fuel to the injectors I’m struggling.

I think I’ll check/ remove the air hose, remove/wipe/refit the injectors, whip out the solenoid, reprime, recharge the battery and give it another go. Any more intense servicing will need a tow to a garage unfortunately - unless she runs i can’t get her down the lane to my drive way to work on her!
 
I imagine you’re right. I’ve done head gasket, hotspots, oil, coolant, air filter, oil filter, thermostat and clearances.

I get the feeling that, pending inspection of the air intake hose, this is a fuel issue but with getting fuel to the injectors I’m struggling.

I think I’ll check/ remove the air hose, remove/wipe/refit the injectors, whip out the solenoid, reprime, recharge the battery and give it another go. Any more intense servicing will need a tow to a garage unfortunately - unless she runs i can’t get her down the lane to my drive way to work on her!

Try testing the lift pump, and replacing with a new Delphi one if in doubt.
Wouldn't bother removing the injectors, except to test them properly, and recon if necessary.
Remember you need a full set of copper and steel washers every time they are removed. Wiping makes no difference.
My money would still be on restricted air intake.
 
Try testing the lift pump, and replacing with a new Delphi one if in doubt.
Wouldn't bother removing the injectors, except to test them properly, and recon if necessary.
Remember you need a full set of copper and steel washers every time they are removed. Wiping makes no difference.
My money would still be on restricted air intake.

She lives!

Faffed about for a while. Solenoid in good condition and working, air hoses fine, fuel to injectors and battery recharged.

In the end I caved and pulled the injectors to find them all caked in carbon deposits, washed them off with diesel, replaced them and she leapt onto life!

Got her home, idles and drives really well again, starts and restarts multiple times.

So, I need to buy a full new set of washers for the banjo rail (some warped) and the copper and domed washers for the injectors.

Any ideas why the injectors (And presumably the inside of the hotspots) are so caked in soot?

To recap, I’ve never changed the fuel filter, and has just filled up a 1/3 tank of diesel to the brim with new stuff.

Filter full of stuff?
Stirred up mess from the engine?

Only new feature is the oil low pressure light is now on, oil level is fine...new switch time!
 
She lives!

Faffed about for a while. Solenoid in good condition and working, air hoses fine, fuel to injectors and battery recharged.

In the end I caved and pulled the injectors to find them all caked in carbon deposits, washed them off with diesel, replaced them and she leapt onto life!

Got her home, idles and drives really well again, starts and restarts multiple times.

So, I need to buy a full new set of washers for the banjo rail (some warped) and the copper and domed washers for the injectors.

Any ideas why the injectors (And presumably the inside of the hotspots) are so caked in soot?

To recap, I’ve never changed the fuel filter, and has just filled up a 1/3 tank of diesel to the brim with new stuff.

Filter full of stuff?
Stirred up mess from the engine?

Only new feature is the oil low pressure light is now on, oil level is fine...new switch time!

Could be a number of things, including poor quality fuel, and not being driven hard enough.

Get the new washers in quickly, old ones may cause problems. Make sure there is only one steel washer, right way up, around each injector tip.
Change fuel filter, use a Delphi filter, inspect old one for crud. Water trap should be drained weekly.
Try and keep the fuel tank as full as practical at all times, stops condensation in the tank.
 
the oil pressure warning light coming on indicates low oil pressure rather than low oil level (although low oil level will give low pressure).

So as you have a sump full of oil be certain your oil pump is working and the pickup is clear and be certain that the light is lit in error rather than there being an actual oil pressure problem.....
 
the oil pressure warning light coming on indicates low oil pressure rather than low oil level (although low oil level will give low pressure).

So as you have a sump full of oil be certain your oil pump is working and the pickup is clear and be certain that the light is lit in error rather than there being an actual oil pressure problem.....

The sensors are prone to failure, and he may be running very thin oil.
 
The sensors are prone to failure, and he may be running very thin oil.

Yes very true but would be worth checking what the oil pressure actually is rather than ignore the light and do damage after all this work.

Durite guage isn’t very expensive and with a T piece you can keep your light and have an analog gauge
 
Yes very true but would be worth checking what the oil pressure actually is rather than ignore the light and do damage after all this work.

Durite guage isn’t very expensive and with a T piece you can keep your light and have an analog gauge

I usually change the sensor first, as they are cheap, provided there is oil physically visible around the rockers when the cover is removed.
 
If it just cut out when running well, could the problem be that it is simply pulling air from some joint somewhere or , failing that, there could be a blockage in one of the feed pipes that only occurs when suction is being applied from the lift pump.
 
Adding Millers or similar fuel additive will help the old girl run a bit cleaner - as will regular servicing. You may also notice a small increase in power - anything helps with the N/A!
 
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