Leak from underneath defender 90

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Update, the passenger door now opens from the outside. But, we wanted to check under the bonnet and now the bonnet doesn't undo 🤣 bonnet release cable does nothing, we tried pulling catch from behind front grill but no luck yet. Any tips to get it undone?
 
Have you tried pulling the cable while the other person pushes down or lifts the bonnet?
Otherwise take the grille off and pull/push the catch release over.
 
Anaconda said:
Have you tried pulling the cable while the other person pushes down or lifts the bonnet?
Otherwise take the grille off and pull/push the catch release over.
Click to expand...
We didn't try pushing down on it at the same time, will give it a go tomorrow! Did manage to pull the latch completely from behind the grill but it wouldn't budge. We are going to check the level in the transfer box tomorrow as the leak has reduced a lot
 
Shelly crane said:
We didn't try pushing down on it at the same time, will give it a go tomorrow! Did manage to pull the latch completely from behind the grill but it wouldn't budge. We are going to check the level in the transfer box tomorrow as the leak has reduced a lot
Click to expand...
If you managed to fully pull the latch through the grill it will just need a bit of a wiggle. With the latch fully pulled try pushing down hard on it, if that doesn’t work try pulling side to side. And most importantly try doing both of those relatively hard. A gentle nudge doesn’t do much on an old defender!
 
dag019 said:
If you managed to fully pull the latch through the grill it will just need a bit of a wiggle. With the latch fully pulled try pushing down hard on it, if that doesn’t work try pulling side to side. And most importantly try doing both of those relatively hard. A gentle nudge doesn’t do much on an old defender!
Click to expand...
It's these sort of things that people don't bother to sort. Spend a bit of time lining everything up and lubricate every now and again and it should open ok.
Let's face it a Defender bonnet needs to be opened on a regular basis.
 
Anaconda said:
It's these sort of things that people don't bother to sort. Spend a bit of time lining everything up and lubricate every now and again and it should open ok.
Let's face it a Defender bonnet needs to be opened on a regular basis.
Click to expand...
Completely agree with the above and should have said. I was more focused on getting it open.
To alight it you need to remove the grill (just large cross head screws) then loosen (not not undo) the tow bolts holding the latch in place. This will then allow you to move the latch around to perfectly line up the bonnet.

The bolts to loosen are these two circled in Green (pic from Google). If you have a later style latch these will be captive nuts (square shapes) and the bolt will need to be loosed from the underside

IMG_2771.jpeg


Later style with cative nuts (pic also from Google):

IMG_2773.jpeg


EDIT: should have said from memory these should be M6 bolts so will need a 10mm spanner.

It is also worth checking and maybe replacing the plastic bushing in the bonnet hinges. As these can cause the catch to miss-align as they wear or the slots breaks. Part number: 346849
 
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dag019 said:
Completely agree with the above and should have said. I was more focused on getting it open.
To alight it you need to remove the grill (just large cross head screws) then loosen (not not undo) the tow bolts holding the latch in place. This will then allow you to move the latch around to perfectly line up the bonnet.

The bolts to loosen are these two circled in Green (pic from Google). If you have a later style latch these will be captive nuts (square shapes) and the bolt will need to be loosed from the underside

View attachment 340326

Later style with cative nuts (pic also from Google):

View attachment 340327

EDIT: should have said from memory these should be M6 bolts so will need a 10mm spanner.

It is also worth checking and maybe replacing the plastic bushing in the bonnet hinges. As these can cause the catch to miss-align as they wear or the slots breaks. Part number: 346849
Click to expand...
We've had another go at getting it open but it won't budge, pushing down hard or side to side its solid! is there a bonnet pin that's in between those two bolts when it's shut? Does that need releasing somehow? As think the release cable is broken as you can feel a dangly bit of broken wire from below that area. Thanks for extra info for once its open 😊
 
If you look at Dago's photo's above, the one with the green circles, and you look inside the catch hole you can see a half circle.
This is part of a plate that slides to the left, forming a circle, which allows the catch/pin to be released.

It's awkward to get at but yoiu can do it with a screwdriver (for example) and pull that (sprung) plate away and relase the bonnet.


Here is a videao which shows the catch moving at 26 seconds in ....
 
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The bonnet pin that drops into the hole between bolts in pic above can not be released/removed while bonnet is shut.
Follow instructions above, Get some lube in there. Sometimes when the lever has been moved over and still does not release bonnet a hard slap of the hand on the bonnet will get it to move. [ while holding lever over]
 
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The main latch is a pin that goes in the round hole in @dag019 s pics actuated by the cable.
If the latch you are talking about the latch but its the saftey latch in the square hole to the right, then you are not going to get the bonnet open.

If the cable has broken you should be able to pull it through the grill and pull it that way. But the latch pin can be relased through the grill if you know where it is if the cable isnt broke.

Remove the grill to get better acess and you will see easier.

I can reach in my grill with my finger and release the bonnet.

J
 
marjon said:
I can reach in my grill with my finger and release the bonnet.
Click to expand...
Because this is a very common way to open the bonnet and there is no security and because the cable is so prone to snapping (as you have found) I have made a cable loop through the grill as my permanent bonnet release similar to a series rather than running it to the footwell. The
Military ones have a proper handle by the catch but you need the whole front panel for that and it is quite expensive!

IMG_2776.jpeg
 
dag019 said:
Because this is a very common way to open the bonnet and there is no security and because the cable is so prone to snapping (as you have found) I have made a cable loop through the grill as my permanent bonnet release similar to a series rather than running it to the footwell. The
Military ones have a proper handle by the catch but you need the whole front panel for that and it is quite expensive!

View attachment 340367
Click to expand...
We will 100% be doing this, great idea! And shouldn't have a problem opening it with the latch through the grill now. We were trying the wrong latch 🤦‍♀️as didn't know how the release cable worked until the video above, didn't realise that it just pulled a little latch too!
Thankyou all again
 
Shelly crane said:
We will 100% be doing this, great idea! And shouldn't have a problem opening it with the latch through the grill now. We were trying the wrong latch 🤦‍♀️as didn't know how the release cable worked until the video above, didn't realise that it just pulled a little latch too!
Thankyou all again
Click to expand...
Glad you got it open in the end. If you are going to do this on yours the little brass connector I have used is just an electrical terminal block with the plastic removed. So is nothing fancy! And the cable was the broken release cable.
I will take a picture in the morning of my cable routing. It runs along the top of the panel to and down through a hole further along to get the vertical pull to actually move the lever horizontally. It sounds more complex than it is.
 
If you fit a new cable make sure you oil/lubricate the inner cable before you fit it.
Britpart ones are OK for a few years as long as you pull the release handle straight out, otherwise they weaken and the handle snaps off.
Do a temporary one for now because after a week or two, as you go round the truck, you will find other stuff. You can do one order then and save on p&p and such like.
 
Anaconda said:
If you fit a new cable make sure you oil/lubricate the inner cable before you fit it.
Britpart ones are OK for a few years as long as you pull the release handle straight out, otherwise they weaken and the handle snaps off.
Do a temporary one for now because after a week or two, as you go round the truck, you will find other stuff. You can do one order then and save on p&p and such like.
Click to expand...
Good idea 😊 it does feel that every time we go to do one thing we get another problem 🤣
 
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