Lanoguard

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Bitkrusha

Member
Posts
14
Location
France
Pick your collective brains?!

I've just read through a lot of the existing threads on here regarding Lanoguard.

It seems like a good option. YouTube vids show it being relatively easy to apply and a few of you have done it.

I'm just about to get my 2003 Disco 2 td5. It's got 70k on the clock, so I'd really like to keep on top of the rot before it begins.
What I'd like to know is how to deal with treating inside the chassis rails?
There'll be loads of **** in them. I don't really want to force water in there and even if I do the crap has nowhere to go!
Whats the best way to deal with this prior to treating?
Thanks
 
Not used it before but have heard of it, im replacing rotten sill on my 51 plate was just going to redoxide paint then waxoyl it but going to look into lanoguard
 
You do need to thouroughly wash out the muck and the only way to do it is with a pressure washer, the chassis does have drain holes in it and the crap will wash out, it just takes time.
My mate used to drill 19mm holes in the low points of his Defender chassis so the crap could be easily washed out.

Then you need to dry the chassis. Over the last few weeks it has been ideal weather to do that.
Once dry Lanoguard is a great sealer that when warm gets thin and sprays everywhere.
I'm just about to get my Hilux steam cleaned underneath (bus companies have to do this to thier fleet every 6 months) and it will get a spraying of Dinitrol RC900 and then liquified sheep ...
Hopefully the weather will stay warm and dry so the chassis gets a chance to dry out.
 
Rotherham Rover said:
Not used it before but have heard of it, im replacing rotten sill on my 51 plate was just going to redoxide paint then waxoyl it but going to look into lanoguard
Click to expand...

There's a few quite good vids on YouTube. The overriding issue with wax oil is that it goes white and flakes over time.
Lanoguard has to be re applied yearly but I quite like the fact that a fresh coat of protection is happening every year
 
Bitkrusha said:
There's a few quite good vids on YouTube. The overriding issue with wax oil is that it goes white and flakes over time.
Lanoguard has to be re applied yearly but I quite like the fact that a fresh coat of protection is happening every year
Click to expand...
Yes thats very true, it wouldnt bother me having to re apply each year like you say its another layer of protection.
 
I have used Lanoguard and whilst it us easy to apply it didn't go as far as I expected.

I haven't really given it enough on the road time in wet weather to give you a proper review, but I don't mind reapplying it every year as it actually makes me look at the chassis.

My chassis is 30 years old so I don't want to hide anything under a black film - I want to see what is happening so I can decide to address it or be ready for the inevitable chassis swap.

I am going to try fluid film next as its working out a bit cheaper. I have not done the inside of the chassis yet as I have an outrigger and my rear crossmember to fit next week. As soon as they are fitted I need to address the inside, but I was looking at one of the ML treatments for that but open to suggestions.
 
Thanks for your replies. You've answered all my concerns.
I saw a video of a guy who cut four 25mm holes in the chassis of his LR. I would feel quite nervous doing that as I can't help feeling that would affect the integrity of the chassis.
I'm not keen on fling it with water but I can't see another way round it. Bullet must be bitten
 
Mud etc inside the chassis will hold water against the metal. A chassis tends to rust from the inside out. You have to get muck out. Use a karcher drain unblocker or simular. The jets have an unbelievable power. Muck and mud will be washed out. As above add some small drain holes. If you have a compresser then pump air in to blow out the water. Patch weld the chassis with roses tin if you blow holes in it.
 
Hippo said:
Mud etc inside the chassis will hold water against the metal. A chassis tends to rust from the inside out. You have to get muck out. Use a karcher drain unblocker or simular. The jets have an unbelievable power. Muck and mud will be washed out. As above add some small drain holes. If you have a compresser then pump air in to blow out the water. Patch weld the chassis with roses tin if you blow holes in it.
Click to expand...

It's a bit of a design flaw on these things eh!
I'm definitely getting a drain unblocker attachment for the pressure washer. They look great.
So you're recommending patching the chassis with thicker, higher grade steel than originally used by the factory?
 
Bitkrusha said:
It's a bit of a design flaw on these things eh!
I'm definitely getting a drain unblocker attachment for the pressure washer. They look great.
So you're recommending patching the chassis with thicker, higher grade steel than originally used by the factory?
Click to expand...
Roses tin as in a chocolate tin ;)

There's a number of freds in the project section which show what others have done to patch weld.
 
Bitkrusha said:
It's a bit of a design flaw on these things eh!
I'm definitely getting a drain unblocker attachment for the pressure washer. They look great.
So you're recommending patching the chassis with thicker, higher grade steel than originally used by the factory?
Click to expand...
One of a number of design flaws.

We used to use the sheet metal cut off an old fridge or cooker for welding patches on chassis.
You want the oldest appliance you can find, metal quality is better on old ones.
Cut out the plates with a grinder, and clean up about a quarter inch at the edge before welding.
Then weld the plate on the chassis enamel side in, then you can paint the outside, and that bit won't be rusting from inside as well.
 
Turboman said:
One of a number of design flaws.

We used to use the sheet metal cut off an old fridge or cooker for welding patches on chassis.
You want the oldest appliance you can find, metal quality is better on old ones.
Cut out the plates with a grinder, and clean up about a quarter inch at the edge before welding.
Then weld the plate on the chassis enamel side in, then you can paint the outside, and that bit won't be rusting from inside as well.
Click to expand...

It can't add much to the structural integrity of the chassis can it?
Could you just plug it with a rubber bung?
 
Bitkrusha said:
It can't add much to the structural integrity of the chassis can it?
Could you just plug it with a rubber bung?
Click to expand...
The original metal isn't that thick either.
Because the plates are welded all round, most of the load on them is across the plate, in which dimension it is quite thick.
And the chassis is attached to numerous other body parts, which adds to it's stiffness.
The main consideration when plating a chassis is that the MOT testers hammer will not penetrate the chassis.

Trying to weld very thick steel to a chassis is likely to result in a lot of melting of the original metal.
 
Turboman said:
Trying to weld very thick steel to a chassis is likely to result in a lot of melting of the original metal.
Click to expand...

I hadn't considered that. Very good point.
Nothing more irritating than chasing a bloody hole when your welding.
My mate who I'm buying this Disco 2 from is a Land Rover nut and has gone through it with a fine tooth comb. It all seems in really good nick. Only 70k on it should mean a relatively solid chassis.
Although the headliner's drooping and the sunroofs have both leaked. That'll be my first job!!
 
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