Bern
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I would only use any of the existing wiring to switch a relay if I were you.
Series 3 Landy finally on fire!
- Thread starter 85Santana3
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Colthebrummie
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In reference to carrying a spare, where do you draw the line? With an old landy, (and many new ones), any one of a number of parts are likely to fail, you can't carry a spare of everything, I don't even bother carrying a spare wheel anymore.
Col
Col
Asking for trouble IMHO.
+1 - this the right way to do this. Anything else could bite you on the bum quite severely - I mean, hot overloaded electrical wiring and petrol?
- what could possibly go wrong? 
85Santana3
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Disco1BFG which part is asking for trouble getting powered from coil or the 15 A fuse?
Bern you are talking to an electrical ignoramus my friend. Please explain what wire and what relay? There are no relays in this truck anywhere and the mechanic specializing on electric work chose to connect the power line to coil. What is the right way to do this? (Who knew adding an electric pump could get this complicated and costly!) and this is only temporary till I find a good mechanical one.
The supply wire to the coil will be rated for that current load - I.E. the rather dynamic draw of the coil. It is unlikely to be rated for, nor be able to supply the extra current required to run an electric fuel pump without problems up stream - which leads me to the problem with the fuse - where in the circuit is this ? if it is downstream of the coil, it is only protecting the fuel pump wiring, and NOT the coil wiring to which you have just added an additional load! Is the coil supply fused ?
A relay would, if wired correctly, alleviate all this. Have a nosy here:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay
I strongly suggest you learn how to do this stuff yourself - it will 1) save you a fortune, 2) be good for your brain, and 3) produce better results than most so called professionals IMHO.
85Santana3
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DISCO1BFG apparently the mechanics around me are dumber than they look.
The fuse is installed between the coil and pump so it is protecting the pump I guess. The coil was not fused prior to this installation.
I would really appreciate if somebody explains what is the right way to do it.
1. where should I get power from?
2. where should I install a relay or fuse?
If I know how to do it right doing it is not difficult (2 wires after all).
1000000 thanks in advance
The fuse is installed between the coil and pump so it is protecting the pump I guess. The coil was not fused prior to this installation.
I would really appreciate if somebody explains what is the right way to do it.
1. where should I get power from?
2. where should I install a relay or fuse?
If I know how to do it right doing it is not difficult (2 wires after all).
1000000 thanks in advance
Bern
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- Wells, Somerset, UK
A relay is basically an electrical switch, you use a small current to switch a large current.
You can use the wire you already have from the coil to switch the relay.
The feed for the pump would then come from a new cable connected either to the battery itself or the starter motor, fused of course, and run through the relay.
You'll need to check how much current your pump will draw (it's probably written on it somewhere) si that you can get the correct rated cable and relay.
Something like this perhaps:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Rela...831066?hash=item1ca648285a:g:A2QAAOSwZ8ZXBV~F
If you look at the wiring diagram (3rd picture) you'd wire pin 85 to the coil wire, 86 to earth. Pin 30 to the battery and pin 87 to your pump.
And I'd mount it on the bulkhead!
You can use the wire you already have from the coil to switch the relay.
The feed for the pump would then come from a new cable connected either to the battery itself or the starter motor, fused of course, and run through the relay.
You'll need to check how much current your pump will draw (it's probably written on it somewhere) si that you can get the correct rated cable and relay.
Something like this perhaps:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Rela...831066?hash=item1ca648285a:g:A2QAAOSwZ8ZXBV~F
If you look at the wiring diagram (3rd picture) you'd wire pin 85 to the coil wire, 86 to earth. Pin 30 to the battery and pin 87 to your pump.
And I'd mount it on the bulkhead!
Indeed. It's a recurring problem. When SWMBO's clutch went in her D1, I asked a "mechanic" to give me a price for doing the job, as I was very very busy. His reply was that it was not worth putting a new clutch in as, "it'll be as rotten as a pear". It had just passed an MOT with no advisories - but such is the quality of some "professionals" - I've been trying to sort out a wiring problem on a commercial product for a couple of hours - and it is truly appalling what passes for "professional" IMHO - I decided at lunch time to take the wire cutters to the lot, and start from scratch. I'm pretty sure other cable colours are available other than red and black !!!!!
.In answer to 1) - any convenient ignition live will be fine to power the relay - given you'll know the colour of the live feed to the coil, then you can follow the loom, and break into it with a proper soldered and heat shrink wrapped joint in a convenient position for the relay..
In answer to 2) IMHO, @Bern has it - put it in a convenient place on the bulkhead - relay sockets are available to make the job neater, simpler, and more maintainable - I'd fuse the main supply to the relay AND the relay coil too - it is then as safe as houses so to speak - again, remote fuse boxes are available, both for modern blade type fuses, and for older glass tube fuses - which are more period correct for your series
rob1miles
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I'm a big fan of fused relays, simplifies the wiring and its obvious which fuse does what.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Rela...172406?hash=item1a2d7acd76:g:A8sAAOSwPyBZrS-X
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Rela...172406?hash=item1a2d7acd76:g:A8sAAOSwPyBZrS-X
Colthebrummie
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Avoid buying the cheap Chinese relays.
Col
Col
Colthebrummie
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If you mount the pump on the bulkhead, be aware that some pumps can't lift fuel very high so if it is too much above the tank, it might not pull the fuel through. Also, use some rubber in between the pump and the bulkhead because they can be noisy.
Col
Col
85Santana3
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I will try to correct the problem this afternoon. If you didn't hear a big noise and smelled smoke consider the job successful
Bern
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A good point! I had a phase of going through lots of pumps in my 90, I think it was the biodiesel it was running on that was doing it! So I always had a spare pump. I actually don't have any spares in the series 3 at the moment, or tools for that matter!
I run a 200di ex discovery engine minus turbo, new fuel pumps are not reliable after being out green laning with a group one vehicle failed with blocked fuel filter and the next time out failed with fuel pump diahragm split fuel leaking badly engine still running but risk of diesel conatminating oil..
Luckily I was carrying spare pump fixed in 15mins. So I now carry spare pump and fuel filter, always carried a bag of tools
Luckily I was carrying spare pump fixed in 15mins. So I now carry spare pump and fuel filter, always carried a bag of tools
rob1miles
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I fitted a new mech pump and it worked fine as a pump but caused a huge oil leak as the flange was thinnner and the studs didn't clamp the gasket properly but it didn't show for a while until it got hot.
