Landrover discovery 2 wont start
- Thread starter HARRRISON
- Start date
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sierrafery
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One post earlyer you said that nanocom won't read the ECU now you say it's all good so how do you know it's all good if you can't scan it? first of all can you hear the new fuel pump running?
I took the ecu off then took to daniel at storm tuning for table testing and all good.
Yes i can hear the pump which i couldn't before and done the purge process
sierrafery
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And did you rule out the crank sensor yet? ...also check fuse F20 interior fusebox
Yes done crankshaft sensor tested all fuses relays ect ect ect
neilly
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Is your battery fully charged?
Cheers
Cheers
Yes battery fully charged
sierrafery
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If it's manual try to bump start it cos there are cases when the starter motor has an internal issue and disturbs the crank signal, even if you r battery is fully charged and the starter spins well measure the voltage while cranking cos if it drops close to 10V or below the engine will not start.... though a live session with tester would be good to see if the crank signal is actually reaching the ECU or not.
brian47
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Reading through this thread and what is and isn't working, I'd say it might be time to get the voltmeter out.
The OP says that a Nanocom can't connect to the engine ECU. It would be interesting to know whether it can connect to another ECU on the vehicle, say SLABS or the BCU. That would then rule out a problem with the diagnostics socket.
The OP has also said that he's had the engine ECU tested off the vehicle and it works OK. This would then point to something being amiss on the vehicle such as wiring, a fuse somewhere or maybe a faulty connection in a plug. An ECU fault could also be indicated by the odd indications on the dashboard.
Check or recheck the fuse F24 (10 amps) on the passenger compartment fuse board. If that's OK then a voltmeter check on pin 33 on the "B" plug (not the red plug) on the ECU with the ignition key in the II position. This supplies the working power to the ECU.
The OP says that a Nanocom can't connect to the engine ECU. It would be interesting to know whether it can connect to another ECU on the vehicle, say SLABS or the BCU. That would then rule out a problem with the diagnostics socket.
The OP has also said that he's had the engine ECU tested off the vehicle and it works OK. This would then point to something being amiss on the vehicle such as wiring, a fuse somewhere or maybe a faulty connection in a plug. An ECU fault could also be indicated by the odd indications on the dashboard.
Check or recheck the fuse F24 (10 amps) on the passenger compartment fuse board. If that's OK then a voltmeter check on pin 33 on the "B" plug (not the red plug) on the ECU with the ignition key in the II position. This supplies the working power to the ECU.
sierrafery
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That's why i asked about the pump if it's running cos if the ECU doesnt get power it doesnt close the earth path for the main relay then the pump has no power either
brian47
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I don't have any indications of what goes on in the ECU, I only have the RAVE diagrams which show the ECU as an empty block.
I did think about that when I wrote it, but with so many other inputs to the ECU, some of which are at a 12 volts potential, there could be the possibility of some kind of "ghost" power feed finding its way to the pump relay.
sierrafery
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If you watch the diagram you'll see that the pump relay's coil gets feed from the main relay and the ECU is activatig it on the earth path so IMO if the ECU doesnt have feed the pump would not run though if the engine main harness is chaffed somewhere and there are multiple shorts in it everything is possible
- Ignition on
- Tighten all the earth points behind the ECU
- Check voltage between battery negative post and fuse 1 (in the engine compartment fuse box) should be 12v. If not, you probably have a problem with the main relay
- Try resetting the inertia switch if you haven't already, however I wouldn't have thought this would be the issue, but the main relay is interlocked with this.
- Tighten all the earth points behind the ECU
- Check voltage between battery negative post and fuse 1 (in the engine compartment fuse box) should be 12v. If not, you probably have a problem with the main relay
- Try resetting the inertia switch if you haven't already, however I wouldn't have thought this would be the issue, but the main relay is interlocked with this.
