Landrover 90 cappings

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LaxfieldLandy said:
That looks good to me. So did you go for the proper roller and brush method?
Have a look on the Paintman website. I’m sure they’ve just started stocking something to restore enamel paint. I am tempted to use their coach enamel anyway.
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That was 16 years ago! I used a brush, I would be careful, coach painting is a very skilled trade, it takes a huge amount of skill and knowledge, the paintman will sell you paint and show you how to paint akin to painting a shed but you wont get the mirror finish that a skilled coach painter will get. If it were me, Id spray it, you can correct that, you cannot correct coach enamel. If you balls it up, it stays that way, If you balls it up and want to remove it its like tarr, it took me 8 months to rebuild my Ninety, a lot of which was painting, by hand, with a brush. I would never, ever paint with enamel again.
You cannot restore enamel paint, you can clear coat it, you can repaint it, but you cannot restore it like you can cellulose paint.
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
I’m trying to work out what bit I’m looking at on there!
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I think, cos I cant see the photo you quoted, thats the tub to chassis mount and where the seatbelts attach. Basically, aluminium on metal will corrode, the aluminium becomes sacraficial and will corrode but the metal wont, so the tub will be full of corrosion where it mounts to the chassis, I know, not good!
 
I’m nearly tempted to paint it all with rattle cans as I’m fairly handy with cans and I don’t have a compressor. A lot of people seem to go for the roller method though. Mines never going to be a show stopper and I use it properly too so I don’t want anything too fancy. Once spray shop quoted me £6000 to spray it!!
 
I dont know about Raptor, never seen one up close, but it depends on what you want to do with it. If you are going to buy new boots and hat and show it off you may as well give it a nice new coat, if you are going to drive it through fields of scratchy scratches enamel it, if you are going to roll it down the side of a mountain raptor it, cos it wont matter anyway. The easier it gets (and cheaper) the worse the finish will be, there is no cheap option for a show room finish.
You could just leave it be, it has scars, it has history, it has a patina.
 
I cant find any recent pics, this was about 4 years ago, its way way worse now, but from a glossy (Tekaloid is very, very glossy) to this and no way to correct it, I guess it isnt bad, but you need to do it properly from the get go, back to alimuniom, etch primer, high build, paint, then clear if you want to, each time wet sanding down to 1k grit, then another ball clenching coat with a brush!
DSCF2570.JPG
 
nobber said:
I dont know about Raptor, never seen one up close, but it depends on what you want to do with it. If you are going to buy new boots and hat and show it off you may as well give it a nice new coat, if you are going to drive it through fields of scratchy scratches enamel it, if you are going to roll it down the side of a mountain raptor it, cos it wont matter anyway. The easier it gets (and cheaper) the worse the finish will be, there is no cheap option for a show room finish.
You could just leave it be, it has scars, it has history, it has a patina.
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There’s patina and then there’s mine…
My front end is dulled bronze green, the new bulkhead is Coniston, the doors are a different shade of bronze green, the rear tub is another green with huge brush marks in the paint, the offside rear corner is dented and filled terribly with filler and then sprayed with bright green paint. The new rear door has the same treatment but not enough paint so it’s patchy. The rear lower lower corner panels are still in useless black powdercoating and cracked showing the ali and the rear light clusters are just rust now! o_O
 
nobber said:
I cant find any recent pics, this was about 4 years ago, its way way worse now, but from a glossy (Tekaloid is very, very glossy) to this and no way to correct it, I guess it isnt bad, but you need to do it properly from the get go, back to alimuniom, etch primer, high build, paint, then clear if you want to, each time wet sanding down to 1k grit, then another ball clenching coat with a brush!View attachment 246437
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It still looks good to me and all one colour too!!
When I repair the bottoms of my doors I’m planning on fitting thin butyl tape between the door skin and frame to hopefully slow it down a bit.
 
LaxfieldLandy said:
It still looks good to me and all one colour too!!
When I repair the bottoms of my doors I’m planning on fitting thin butyl tape between the door skin and frame to hopefully slow it down a bit.
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Its not all the same colour! its about 4 different shades.
 
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