Land Rover 90 - First Landy

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
IK7 said:
Its spent nearly all of its life on a farm and I don't think its been looked after other than scraping it through an MOT every year.

The only reason I suggest Hammerite is because I can get it free from where I work. I've only been using it to cover/seal the welding I've done so far, but I'll look into cover it in something better.

On other news, I've now got all lights working, but just need to fix the front side repeater as its cracked and broken.
Click to expand...

Farmers aren't often known for looking after landrovers, I am the exception that proves the rule. But I come more from an engineering/ machinery background than a farming one! :)
Looking at that chassis, I would also hazard a guess that it has been kept in a coastal location, or at least one exposed to coastal winds. Rots steel like nothing else. :(

If you get Hammerite free. it should be ok as topcoat, but get a couple of coats of rust resist primer on first, let it dry and slather with hammerite to throw the water.
 
What would be your choice of rust resist primer? Also, would it be beneficial to wire brush everywhere first, then apply it?

Hopefully if the weather is good I'll get more of the welding done Wednesday and Thursday. Other than that, I haven't got much else to do.
 
IK7 said:
What would be your choice of rust resist primer? Also, would it be beneficial to wire brush everywhere first, then apply it?

Hopefully if the weather is good I'll get more of the welding done Wednesday and Thursday. Other than that, I haven't got much else to do.
Click to expand...

Myself I use corroless, but it is hard to get. For that chassis any good quality stuff will do, avoid the cheapest own brand stuff.

Yes, preparation is the most important bit, wire brush, production paper, chipping hammer on the worst bits. Then wash off thoroughly, use a pressure washer if you have one, to get all the dust off. Leave to dry well, and paint.

And make sure you spray loads of used gear oil or similar into the chassis when it is welded up! :)
 
Not too much to report other than I have patched up the O/S/F outrigger, hopefully going to get the rear cross member done tomorrow. That will just leave the N/S underside chassis rail.

Hopefully get more pics to go with the progress i've done so far!
 
IK7 said:
Not too much to report other than I have patched up the O/S/F outrigger, hopefully going to get the rear cross member done tomorrow. That will just leave the N/S underside chassis rail.

Hopefully get more pics to go with the progress i've done so far!
Click to expand...

Keep up the good work mate! :)

Think of the money you are saving, a galv chassis for that is knocking on 2k at a guess, and you will put of the massive job of fitting it for a year or five! ;)
 
Managed to get the chassis rail done, however there was a lot of filler under there, which worries me somewhat.

Only thing left is the rear cross member and N/S/F outrigger, then I can get on with protecting it. I've done my pre-MOT checks and everything else is spot on, which is a relief.

A question for someone who is a lot more clued up than me; I can get a hold of a TD5/TDCI chassis (galvanised) a lot cheaper than I can get a hold of a 200TDI variant. Other than the engine mounts, is there anything else drastically different that will caused major problems if I swap my shell and gear onto it?
 
Finally, after months of work, I've managed to scrape this 90 through its MOT.

Next things on the list are an oil and filter change, tidy up most of the body work, get a radio installed and carpet out the back.

The other thing I noticed when driving it back from the MOT station is it has developed a rattling/knocking noise coming from somewhere, which sounds like a bracket is loose. Any ideas on where the best place to start for that it?
 
IK7 said:
Finally, after months of work, I've managed to scrape this 90 through its MOT.

Next things on the list are an oil and filter change, tidy up most of the body work, get a radio installed and carpet out the back.

The other thing I noticed when driving it back from the MOT station is it has developed a rattling/knocking noise coming from somewhere, which sounds like a bracket is loose. Any ideas on where the best place to start for that it?
Click to expand...


That is a good result, a landrover is always better being used than being taken to pieces for ten years :)

There are always rattling and knocking noises, could be a body stay rusted out, or the shocks knocking due to rubbers worn out. It will out when it gets bad enough! :D
 
The good news is I've located the rattling noise, the bad news is its the front prop shaft. Can these be rebuilt or will it be easier just getting a full prop?
 
IK7 said:
The good news is I've located the rattling noise, the bad news is its the front prop shaft. Can these be rebuilt or will it be easier just getting a full prop?
Click to expand...


You can change the prop shafts UJ's quite easily, it's not a big job and relatively cheap too. Google it or search the forum and you should be able to find yourself a how to guide.
 
This may be a stupid question, but is the UJ the same on both front and rear props, or is there a specific one for the front?
 
Hard to say on yours as it's had an engine change, but on many of them the UJ spiders are bigger on the front than the rear, with a different part number.

A press is helpful if you're swapping them, but it is possible to manage with different sized sockets and a vice. With the latter method it helps if you have assistance as I always find it needs three hands. If the splined slider section is very loose as well a new propshaft might be the best answer, but they're usually not hideously expensive.
 
Managed to get the prop shaft off, with only one rounded nut, unfortunately I had to cut the bolt off to release it. Whats the best way forward to re-attach the prop at the transfer end? Just use a bolt and nylock or pull the flange off to insert another bolt into it?
 
Well, the 'proper' way is to take the flange off so you can install the correct bolt the right way round. It's usually not too difficult - they don't put up too much of a fight in my experience.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Land Rover 90 rear door
Replies
14
Views
704
bluedog333
bluedog333
C
Defender TDCi Puma 90 - Diff Lock Light
Replies
12
Views
610
crashmat
C
W
Locks and keys
Replies
8
Views
540
Windy scotland
W
M
1984 90 whats it worth?
Replies
7
Views
712
Forestrax4x4
F
johnnymarrsbarres
Tdci sunroof seals
Replies
1
Views
153
Def90man
Def90man
Back
Top