Land Rover 300tdi clutch not disengaging after engine out

Hi, I’m just finishing a 300tdi conversion in my mid 80s One Ten. I’ve used a 300tdi out of a discovery 1, including the R380 gearbox, and positioned the engine in the ‘stock’ defender location. Everything lined up, bolted on, etc. it was going too well.

After basically finishing everything, I tried the clutch and I can’t get any gears when the engine is running. When I try to move it into 1st there isn’t any grinding noises, but it won’t go into gear and as I push gently on the gear the car starts to pull forward. It’s the same for all the other gears, and reverse, but pulling backwards obviously. It does this whether the clutch is down or not, seeming not making any difference at all.

I did not replace the clutch assembly, I used the disco one as it was in reasonable condition. I did have it off though, as I replaced the rear main oil seal.

I can confirm that the hydraulic system is working as it should, the push rod is attached to the fork, and I’m 99% sure that when push the clutch pedal down I can hear the thrust bearing pushing down on the clutch fingers and it springs back afterwards. The clutch pedal feels exactly like it used to and completely normal. When the engine is off I can select gears with no problem. When I put it in gear and then start the engine the car pull forward with or without the clutch down. I’ve tried adjusting the master cylinder end, and the slave cylinder starts to engage the push rod almost immediately (I unbolted it and held it in place while someone squeezed the clutch).

I’m certain I’m going to have to have the box off again, but was hoping someone might have suggestions for whether to start looking (or even a magic bullet that sorts it without removing the box!!)

Could you have put the clutch plate on the wrong way?

This may be happening because the friction plate is stuck to the flywheel. If you had it skimmed and its sat around for a bit then it might have got a bit rusty hence the plate sticking to it. You have described exactly the problem i had a few months back. I took the 90 into the yard and started it in gear,1st, and then jabbed the brakes on and off and i mean really stood on the pedal a good few times. Stopped it and then restarted and it selected all gears no problem and took up a smooth start. I put it in low box by the way. Didnt want it to stall out when doing the braking to try and release the stuck plate. Give this a try,bit easier than taking the box back out. Hope it works for you, sorry for wasting your time and hopes if it doesnt but i hope you get a good result my friend.

Hicap phill said:

Could you have put the clutch plate on the wrong way?

Click to expand...

That is the obvious fault, are you able to try a longer slave push rod? Depending on free play of course

Hicap phill said:

Could you have put the clutch plate on the wrong way?

Click to expand...

I did that 'once' and had exactly your symptoms @Geckomike

Disco one/R380 in my 90 had same problem if you left it stood more than a couple of weeks, had to start it in gear and drive with the clutch down to free it off, no idea why, maybe damp getting in and sticking plate to flywheel.

Thanks all for the suggestions. I tried starting in gear and pressing the brakes a whole bunch and it didn’t free up. So I took the gearbox off again. The friction plate was the correct way round, but did have burn spots which it didn’t have before.

I’m guessing it did get stuck to either the flywheel or pressure plate and then got really hot while trying to break it free. Just ordered a clutch kit and will give the flywheel a good clean before fitting. Hopefully that solves the issue!

For any one who has the same issue. My follow up is that a new clutch kit and new fork solved the issue. Gearbox is like a dream now!

Well done...