Disco 2 Lack of power

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Sufficient of a fallacy for it to have been mentioned umpteen times on this forum by respected posters, and even you have said "after the turbo". If a hose delaminates, it can let a flap of material float which then can catch the pressure and form a partial blockage.
But then what do I know?
I'm not saying it can't happen, it's very often quoted yet I've never seen, during my searches regarding power loss, for which I have done many times having had various related issues, anyone who has actually found a delaminated hose to be the cause of their problem.
 
I'm not saying it can't happen, it's very often quoted yet I've never seen, during my searches regarding power loss, for which I have done many times having had various related issues, anyone who has actually found a delaminated hose to be the cause of their problem.

see posts 2 and 3 on this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/72189-td5-intercooler-hoses-power-loss.html
this one is related and you might find something on it you could try
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/91072-300tdi-turboboost-issue/
or this
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476490
or yet another which had a different problem but mentions delamination
and this, on this site, post #34 onwards https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/range-rover-p38-2-5dse.327998/page-2
 
see posts 2 and 3 on this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/72189-td5-intercooler-hoses-power-loss.html
this one is related and you might find something on it you could try
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/91072-300tdi-turboboost-issue/
or this
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476490
or yet another which had a different problem but mentions delamination
and this, on this site, post #34 onwards https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/range-rover-p38-2-5dse.327998/page-2
Like I said, I didn't say it can't happen but all but one of your examples are symptoms of another problem, not the cause. One of them is due to a restricted snorkel intake and not hose related at all. I'm not trying to argue with you, I'm just saying that delaminated hoses are often quoted but rarely the problem. Just to add, mine are fine. My intercooler is looking worse for wear so I think that is likely the problem. It's ballooned top and bottom as they often do and there are oil stains in the matrix suggesting a leak. The problem arises only really on hard throttle as the revs rise. My theory is that as the pressure increases due to boost, the air escapes from a hole or more likely a crack in one of the intercooler galleries opening further, causing a loss of boost. At least that's what I'm hoping as whilst a new i/c is not a particularly cheap fix, it's a simple one.
 
Great, it does look like you might have found it and as you say, not the end of the world when it comes to price, also opportunity for an upgrade should you feel the urge!
 
Still not got round to replacing the intercooler, however before I do, another symptom I should have mentioned, is that when I'm climbing an incline (It doesn't have to be steep), where you would expect the engine to have enough grunt to pull up the hill in the gear it's in, it drops down a gear, as if the gearbox is compensating for lack of engine power. It does the same on the flat under relatively hard acceleration. It kicks down when it doesn't feel like it should, like the engine is labouring so it kicks down to compensate.
 
Ya have to rev the TD5 to get the grunt out of it..

I'm revving mine to 3k quite regularly to get it going.

below 2.5k it's gutless ;)
 
Ya have to rev the TD5 to get the grunt out of it..

I'm revving mine to 3k quite regularly to get it going.

below 2.5k it's gutless ;)
Oh, I know it's no Ferrari... it's my second td5. This one was great when I first got it but it's had a few issues which have been sorted. A dying fuel pump was my last issue, after fitting a new one, it went as good as ever but recently it's been struggling with power. I checked a few other things when I did the fuel pump, including turbo hoses etc and the intercooler looked in bad shape. I'm thinking it's giving up the ghost now and I'm losing boost through holes and cracks in it and it's a similar shape to the green oval which adorns our nemesis vehicles... I know it's not the manifold as that was skimmed and had the webs cut when my new turbo was fitted in February (the week before the head gasket failed... :oops:)
This is what my i/c looked like about 2 months ago-
20190627_121925.jpg

I doubt it's managed to heal itself since...
 
You have checked your wastgate and diaphragm thingy is all fixed as it should be with about 13 threads showing between the diaphragm thingy (sorry, anno domini means memory acts too slowly is it "wastegate actuator?") and the adjuster on the threaded bar to the wastegate?
If not, it could be putting itself into limp home, my actuator came loose once and let to this sort of behaviour.
 
You have checked your wastgate and diaphragm thingy is all fixed as it should be with about 13 threads showing between the diaphragm thingy (sorry, anno domini means memory acts too slowly is it "wastegate actuator?") and the adjuster on the threaded bar to the wastegate?
If not, it could be putting itself into limp home, my actuator came loose once and let to this sort of behaviour.
I have checked it all, its exactly 13 threads, the push rod moves with a distinct stop, either end of its movement range, and I've drowned the wastegate spindle in penetrating spray. I did think there was a possibility of the wastegate being slightly stuck open, robbing the engine of boost but it seems to move freely. Also bear in mind it's a fully reconned turbo from a reputable company with a 2 year warranty, so it should be fine anyway.
I should say, my 'problem' isn't really that bad, it just feels down on power from how it used to be. I'm going to get a new intercooler this week and see how it is. It needs one anyway - as you can see from my earlier post...
 
I have checked it all, its exactly 13 threads, the push rod moves with a distinct stop, either end of its movement range, and I've drowned the wastegate spindle in penetrating spray. I did think there was a possibility of the wastegate being slightly stuck open, robbing the engine of boost but it seems to move freely. Also bear in mind it's a fully reconned turbo from a reputable company with a 2 year warranty, so it should be fine anyway.
I should say, my 'problem' isn't really that bad, it just feels down on power from how it used to be. I'm going to get a new intercooler this week and see how it is. It needs one anyway - as you can see from my earlier post...

Did you check how much boost you are getting?

I have a similar issue and although I can't trace a boost leak I get 1.6bars before and 1.3bars after the intercooler. In your case with the wastegate actuator at 13 threads you will get a very low boost if you do have a leak.
 
Did you check how much boost you are getting?

I have a similar issue and although I can't trace a boost leak I get 1.6bars before and 1.3bars after the intercooler. In your case with the wastegate actuator at 13 threads you will get a very low boost if you do have a leak.
I don't have a means to check boost, I just know it feels sluggish compared to how it used to feel. Having ruled out several suspects, it seems to be narrowed down to my rather sorry looking intercooler.
From what you've said, I would hazard a guess and say your prime suspect is the same...
 
I don't have a means to check boost, I just know it feels sluggish compared to how it used to feel. Having ruled out several suspects, it seems to be narrowed down to my rather sorry looking intercooler.
From what you've said, I would hazard a guess and say your prime suspect is the same...

One quick way to check if your issue is boost related is to increase the boost by shortening the actuator by 5-6 threads. I know this is a lot but if you have a leak it will just bring the boost to the normal values. If it goes too high don't worry, the ECU will cut out fuel to protect the engine with no consequences.
 
Well... my mate has just bought an icarsoft Land Rover version, which can be used on all models. Whilst it doesn't appear to have as many features as the nanocom, it's still not bad for £130. We plugged it in to my disco today, gave it a blast and the manifold pressure was maxing out at about 212kpa, when I believe it should be at least 220kpa at full boost. Again, suggesting loss of boost pressure via a leak.
 
Did you also check the MAF values at full throttle?
My MAF is dead and disconnected. Allegedly, on a 10p engine, the MAF is solely to control the EGR valve. Therefore if you have no EGR (like myself) the MAF is pointless anyway. When you read the explanations as to how it works, it does actually make sense. Even Wammers, the self proclaimed Oracle of diesel engines will tell you the same....
 
Is that true? Well gag me with a spoon, cos I have de -EGRed my truck, it is a 2000 so I think it is a 10p but it still ran better once I had replaced the MAF with a decent one, at great expense. If this is true then I might just go out into the garden and howl at the moon!
Mind you I am not sure @wammers and @sierrafery would agree on this!
 
When I first got this disco, it was de-EGR'd, it ran smoothly, plenty of power, no issues whatsoever. Soon after I got it, I hooked it up to a nanocom (not mine) to get the EKA code and had a look at everything else while we were there. We discovered that the MAF was completely dead. Yet it ran a bit better than my previous disco Td5 which had no engine issues at all. I believe a faulty MAF (one that is working but not properly) will cause issues but on a de-EGR'd 10p engine, with either a fully functioning MAF or a dead or disconnected one, it will make no noticeable difference to either power or fuel economy.

One for Mythbusters maybe....
 
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