Lack of power problem.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Greenleaf

New Member
Posts
8
Ok my freelander TD4 has gone in to limp mode.

The fault: its in limp mode so.
- It sometimes springs to life and runs fine before re entering limp mode.
- when first starting it in the morning it struggles to rev for about 20 seconds. Better when the engine is warm.
- Once warmed up the revs in 1st and 2nd are ok, 3rd goes up to 3500 revs, 4th goes up to about 2500 revs and 5th goes to 2000 revs (over all top speed on the flat 50mph. - it is slow when getting up to speed)
- Rough idling

What is missing: there is no white or black smoke out of the back of the car.

I have checked the VCU and drive train, I have also checked the fuel rail sensor.

I think i know what it could be (out of 2) I am just wondering if anyone has had any similar faults or knows what it is likely to be.

Ian
 
If I remember correctly you may need to check the fuel system. A fuel filter [or filters] may be fouled. It would seem to be struggling to get enough fuel through.

Search on here for posts about fuel starvation, poor running...
 
Yep. Check the fuel filter. Should be replaced every year or 12,000 miles. It could be the low pressure fuel pump on its last legs. They seem to give up after about 7-8 years or 60-120,000 miles.
 
The filters been replaced, there are also no leaks.

One of my thoughts was the fuel pump. (In tank)

Does anyone know if it sounds like an injector problem?
 
The filters been replaced, there are also no leaks.



One of my thoughts was the fuel pump. (In tank)



Does anyone know if it sounds like an injector problem?


What year is the car?

Around 2002/3 the fuel pump was moved to the offside rear wheel arch.

If it were an injector problem I would expect some smoking and rough idle and possibly a pinking sound. (That's what happened to mine when 2 injectors went down)
 
its 2001 so 1 under the back seat and 1 in the bonnet.

Thank you for that, I know a couple of the injectors had been replaced by the previous owner (have the receipts) but i have quickly come to realise that 1 fault can be caused by 1 of 5 parts.

I will replace the fuel pump (in tank) and let you know how i get on.

Englishbullterrier - Im confused about the link has someone posted something relevant on the introduction section?
 
Hi have you checked the MAF sensor ? unplug it and if you get better response it could mean the MAF is on it's legs, testing it this way cost nothing but your time, good luck Arctic2
 
Oh sorry, I had posted on the introduction page when I first joined.

Question about the maf, what's the easiest way to unplug it. The clips are pretty stiff to get just the connector out and I'm guessing removing the whole thing will cause it to go haywire?

Ian
 
Oh sorry, I had posted on the introduction page when I first joined.

Question about the maf, what's the easiest way to unplug it. The clips are pretty stiff to get just the connector out and I'm guessing removing the whole thing will cause it to go haywire?

Ian

Hi Ian.
You will need to take the air filter cover off then unplug it 5mm allen key in a long socket is best , gives you a chance to also inspect the air filter pics below.

I have know some people to dremel an area around the MAF connector on the air filter cover to make it easy to unplug and plug back in ? why I don't know Arctic2
2ymyj4g.jpg
1

j9vyvc.jpg
2

lzatd.jpg
3

30v22qg.jpg
4

34p17ww.jpg
5
 
Last edited:
I have been able to get to the maf sensor, Its just whether you pull the whole thing out or just the top electrical plug.

From what ive read, it can be extremely temperamental regardless of how new or old it is so I dont want to wreak it if its not the problem.
 
I have been able to get to the maf sensor, Its just whether you pull the whole thing out or just the top electrical plug.

From what ive read, it can be extremely temperamental regardless of how new or old it is so I dont want to wreak it if its not the problem.


Disconnect the plug and then undo 2 special torx screws. Need special tool to undo them. Then you can remove the MAF.
 
I have been able to get to the maf sensor, Its just whether you pull the whole thing out or just the top electrical plug.

From what ive read, it can be extremely temperamental regardless of how new or old it is so I dont want to wreak it if its not the problem.


You only need to unplug the electrical plug then run the FL like that and see if it is any better cheers Arctic2
21mdqgo.jpg


PS we have been testing different MAF's with our R75 diesels aside from original Bosch

ta0woz.jpg
 
Last edited:
Brilliant I will give that a go and let you know how I get on with that.

It would be interesting to hear what mafs have worked as there are britpart, Bearmach, allmakes, Bosch, Pierburg (or how ever you spell it) so it would be interesting to see what works.

In the back of my mind I still think it will be the fuel pump as more of the symptoms are present.
 
Back
Top