L322 issues

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pwood999 said:
Run it for long enough for the compressor to fill the tank. Then try steering lock to lock before changing heights.
Click to expand...
ran it for an hour but no lights on the suspension switches etc i am sure the it used to light up
plus its stick in low ration mode on gearbox tried moving the little lever but nothing happens
 
Would have to look at your manual but there is a fuse you can pull to put the transfer box in neutral. Maby do that- will mean loss of drive as it’s there as a feature so you can tow it unlike most 4x4s. But pull fuse and see if it goes into neutral then replace it see if it wakes up. If not I’d look at transfer box motor, only 3 bolts if I recall. Not a big or expensive job to swap, could just be seized with being stood. Never does a car any favours keeping them stood around.
People say about Range Rover reliability iv found more there used better they are.
 
Also right that some faults take suspension out, when I had a faulty abs sensor it took ABS system, HDC (that uses abs so understandable) suspension locked in place, I’d also dropped a bit but not to bump stops but when stopped and restarted the fault cleared for a few hundred yards and suspension would then rise as normal.
It’s one of them when half a dozen things go out you think “my cars just died” when really it could be 1 faulty sensor.
 
rich28uk said:
Definitely on earlier l322s is a fuse that’s pulled.
Click to expand...
Almost, you put one in :)


1. Secure the towing attachment from the
recovery vehicle to the front towing eye of
the vehicle to be recovered (see ‘TOWING
EYES’, page 246).
2. With the parking brake applied, insert the
starter key and turn it to position ‘II’.
H3899
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Your vehicle has permanent four-wheel
drive and is fitted with a steering lock. The
following instructions must be carried out
carefully to prevent damage to the vehicle.
CAUTION: Leaving the starter switch in
position ‘I’ or ‘II’ for extended periods will
put a draw on the battery, which can lead to
a voltage drop and ultimately to a
discharged battery.
Towing the Vehicle
247
3. Place the gear lever in ‘N’ (neutral).
4. Turn the starter switch to position ‘0’.
5. Insert a fuse (5 amps) into position 37 of
the passenger compartment fuse box (see
‘PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE
BOX’, page 250).
6. Turn the starter switch to position ‘II’. The
transfer gearbox will automatically select
transfer neutral - wait until the message
center displays ‘TRANSFER NEUTRAL’.
7. Place the gear lever in ‘P’ (park).
8. Turn the starter switch to position ‘I’ (DO
NOT turn the starter switch to position ‘0’).
NOTE: The transfer gearbox is now in
neutral and the steering wheel is unlocked.
The vehicle MUST remain in this condition
whilst being towed on all four wheels.
9. If required, the starter switch may be
turned to position ‘II’, to operate the brake
lights and direction indicators.
10. Release the parking brake before towing
the vehicle.
 
I know this is a kiddie-level comment, but ref the voltage level, I think it’s worth getting a cigarette lighter plug with DVM built in. It tells you what voltage the car wiring is actually seeing, rather than what the battery thinks it is delivering. The pics are with ignition on and off.
I did say it was simple…

1703438878859.jpeg


1703438831842.jpeg
 
P38 Monkey said:
I know this is a kiddie-level comment, but ref the voltage level, I think it’s worth getting a cigarette lighter plug with DVM built in. It tells you what voltage the car wiring is actually seeing, rather than what the battery thinks it is delivering. The pics are with ignition on and off.
I did say it was simple…

View attachment 305716

View attachment 305715
Click to expand...
I have them fitted to both my P38's but the version with 2 USB charger sockets.
 
Thing is, that little voltmeter shows what the voltage drops to when the ignition is on, and also when the starter is turning. Can be a useful fault checker…? I know your clever nano screen shows that sort of stuff in excruciating detail, but I am not a complex person and hope my inherent simplicity rubs off on Jabba the BeCM under my driver’s seat.
 
Hope u don’t mind me adding but have some bm2 battery monitors which will also show u the Vdc and crank data

enclosed a sheet of what the draw should be after a certain time for the modules to go to sleep , I used a clamp meter to double check mine after I linked out the bonnet and door switches to allow to me gain access to the fuses without the alarm going off, had to wait 30 x mins before my modules went into sleep mode

hope that may help in a small way

IMG_8618.jpeg
 
Last edited:
P38 Monkey said:
I know this is a kiddie-level comment, but ref the voltage level, I think it’s worth getting a cigarette lighter plug with DVM built in. It tells you what voltage the car wiring is actually seeing, rather than what the battery thinks it is delivering. The pics are with ignition on and off.
I did say it was simple…

View attachment 305716

View attachment 305715
Click to expand...

plus 1 as also fitted some Vdc gauges , RH side , fitted a dual one in my case having 2 x batteries, as I had a spare also fitted an inside air cabin temp gauge

IMG_8619.jpeg
IMG_8620.jpeg
 
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