L322 3.0 TDV6 2002 - Air Suspension / Engine issues? Please Help =)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
B

BryanC123

Member
Posts
10
Location
Nuneaton
Hi guys,

just wondering if you may be able to help, my old man has spent around 2k on things to fix his RR most recently being a Turbo a few weeks back also brakes/disks/cv joints etc and now has more issues:oops:.

His Air Suspension is giving him issues and not resetting at all, its all tilting and not lighting up in the cabin when pressed etc - The only way to level is out is when the RAC reset the computer.

Also, I noticed there are separate error codes flagging for the EGR and Glow system, I am not a pro but would I be right in thinking, we should bypass the EGR with a valve to increase engine life.

He's stuck in a tough place as to write the vehicle off ( which seems sad really, as the engine has generally been BULLET proof over 10 years - 3.0 TDV6)

He's slightly concerned he may get shafted again sending it in to be ripped off, so was wondering if the knowledgable folks amongst us may be able to shed some light based from error codes as to the possible cause?

The RAC reset the computer today before a drive out and then all these codes are stored in the car afterwards.

P1613 - ENGINE STABILITY CONTROLLER
P0404 - EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) Control
P3505 - GLOW SYSTEM
P3515 - AIRCO POWER OUTPUT

50 - CAN BUS FAULT
100 - ARTICULATION VALIDITY FAULT

138 - AIR SUSPENSION CAN ERROR
41 - STEERING ANGLE SENSOR CIRCUIT

One more says "incorrect CAN message" but he didn';t send me code against that one.


Is there a chance some of these could be linked, e.g. Steering angle sensor with the air suspension ?
 

Attachments

  • upload_2020-8-8_10-12-1.gif
    upload_2020-8-8_10-12-1.gif
    42 bytes · Views: 133
Welcome.
Only thing I can comment on is tampering with the emissions system , including EGR is illegal ;). Please note I am not saying it is an MoT failure, as that is a grey area. It is illegal under Road vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations. I'll leave that one out there
Next is to shout our resident Disco guru @gstuart :) As your vehicle is a Disco in Drag, he should be able to help.




On a side note. The done thing is to say hi, and tell us a little about you and your vehicle, in the Introduce Yourself forum. Adding pics is always appreciated by the natives of said forum.
 
gold rover said:
On a side note. The done thing is to say hi, and tell us a little about you and your vehicle, in the Introduce Yourself forum. Adding pics is always appreciated by the natives of said forum.
Click to expand...
Hi buddy,

Thanks for the super speedy reply, apologies for not posting in the introduction section. I'm enquiring for my old man and he isn't computer literate I'm afraid, hence him bugging me to try and help out =)

I will introduce myself though, as i have been working for Jag/LR for over 8 years now, just not in the mechanical environment.:)
 
BryanC123 said:
Hi buddy,

Thanks for the super speedy reply, apologies for not posting in the introduction section. I'm enquiring for my old man and he isn't computer literate I'm afraid, hence him bugging me to try and help out =)

I will introduce myself though, as i have been working for JAG/LR's product information for over 8 years now =)
Click to expand...

No worries. Not sure how long it will be before Gary pops his head in though. Some of the others might be able to help in the meantime :)

Do you include, ' this product may fall apart if you look at it the wrong way' , in your product information
tenor.gif
 
First step is always check the battery voltage, should be no less than 12.6 engine off and over 14 vols engine at 2K rpm. A low battery will throw all sorts of faults. Second step check for damp behind the trim in rear near side of boot.
 
Datatek said:
First step is always check the battery voltage, should be no less than 12.6 engine off and over 14 vols engine at 2K rpm. A low battery will throw all sorts of faults. Second step check for damp behind the trim in rear near side of boot.
Click to expand...

Okay thank you, will pass this on and report back !
 
If i have this right you have a l322 3.0l 2002 year which will be the straight six bmw m57 , not the tdv6 which came in latter and would have two turbos
it just help others from getting confused.
 
brianp38dse said:
If i have this right you have a l322 3.0l 2002 year which will be the straight six bmw m57 , not the tdv6 which came in latter and would have two turbos
it just help others from getting confused.
Click to expand...
Tis a Straight six, L322 never got the SDV6, they skipped that and went to 3.6 TDV8 then to 4.4 TDV8.

The successor L405 got the SDV6 though.
 
aj1954 said:
At least he wont have to worry about the crank snapping:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Hahah yeah, well he started looking at the Discovery 4 , RR Sport (L494) but it seems the 3.0 suffers from this "crank" issue, so he's not sure what approach to take if the L322 can't be fixed on the cheap !
 
BryanC123 said:
Hahah yeah, well he started looking at the Discovery 4 , RR Sport (L494) but it seems the 3.0 suffers from this "crank" issue, so he's not sure what approach to take if the L322 can't be fixed on the cheap !
Click to expand...

Ummmmm you sure it was the L494 he was thinking of, maybe L320? If he's looking at wanting things done 'cheap'( and we'll come back to that) then a £20k used vehicle, isn't a cheap option. Around £11k for the Disco4 is a 'cheaper' option for same age as the L494 but still not 'cheap'. They'll also bring new problems, that someone else got rid of them for.

Now back to this 'cheap' thing. Nothing about Range Rover is 'cheap'. Especially old L322s they are not cheap to maintain. Mainly because they were never introduced as cheap vehicles. You are trying to fix a vehicle , that on rolling off the line , cost minimum £80k 18 years ago. It is not quite as expensive as a Roller, but would you be looking to fix an 18yr old Roller on the 'cheap'? Or treating it as an older , luxury, car?
The reason so many old Range Rovers are bangers , is because of people 'fixing' them on the cheap.
The P38 seems to be the exception to the rule, as the parts seem to be readily available, and reasonable cost.
That's not to say we don't all look for the best value when repairing, but you will see, time and again, warnings of buying low cost parts, and tales of woe from those who bought low cost, that turned out to be low quality.
In summary , if you want cheap, you came to the wrong marque. Reasonable is the best you can hope for ;)
 
Last edited:
gold rover said:
Ummmmm you sure it was the L494 he was thinking of, maybe L320? If he's looking at wanting things done 'cheap'( and we'll come back to that) then a £20k used vehicle, isn't a cheap option. Around £11k for the Disco4 is a 'cheaper' option for same age as the L494 but still not 'cheap'. They'll also bring new problems, that someone else got rid of them for.

Now back to this 'cheap' thing. Nothing about Range Rover is 'cheap'. Especially old L322s they are not cheap to maintain. Mainly because they were never introduced as cheap vehicles. You are trying to fix a vehicle , that on rolling off the line , cost minimum £80k 18 years ago. It is not quite as expensive as a Roller, but would you be looking to fix an 18yr old Roller on the 'cheap'? Or treating it as an older , luxury, car?
The reason so many old Range Rovers are bangers , is because of people 'fixing' them on the cheap.
The P38 seems to be the exception to the rule, as the parts seem to be readily available, and reasonable cost.
That's not to say we don't all look for the best value when repairing, but you will see, time and again, warnings of buying low cost parts, and tales of woe from those who bought low cost, that turned out to be low quality.
In summary , if you want cheap, you came to the wrong marque. Reasonable is the best you can hope for ;)
Click to expand...


Yeah it was a L494 Sport, 15 plate around 50k on the clock and the 3.0 Diesel, for around £28k. The issue seemed to be the 3.0 in these cars have Crank issues and is that common across the LR range of the 3.0 blocks around 2015?

He just didn't want to plough much more money into the L322 as its now nearly 20 years old and starting to have chassis rust (something he can sort as he was a welder, many moons ago) but i'm sure most be cautious to avoid the "money pit" scenario.

When I say cheap I don't mean not using OEM parts or anything, i mean if it's basically a write off in terms of what needs spending to get the Air suspension back on the road, is it just a sensor or is it a whole ECU etc, were both not mechanically minded so wanted to try and get some guidance from fellow owners on here, as he has just spent over £2000 on the car and it's not even worth that really, in 10 years of ownership it's been pretty reliable and it's been used as it was designed - as a workhorse, towing a plant trailer and machinery etc.
 
Last edited:
BryanC123 said:
Yeah it was a L494 Sport, 15 plate around 50k on the clock and the 3.0 Diesel, for around £28k. The issue seemed to be the 3.0 in these cars have Crank issues and is that common across the LR range of the 3.0 blocks around 2015?

He just didn't want to plough much more money into the L322 as its now nearly 20 years old and starting to have chassis rust (something he can sort as he was a welder, many moons ago) but i'm sure most be cautious to avoid the "money pit" scenario.

When I say cheap I don't mean not using OEM parts or anything, i mean if it's basically a write off in terms of what needs spending to get the Air suspension back on the road, is it just a sensor or is it a whole ECU etc, were both not mechanically minded so wanted to try and get some guidance from fellow owners on here, as he has just spent over £2000 on the car and it's not even worth that really, in 10 years of ownership it's been pretty reliable and it's been used as it was designed - as a workhorse, towing a plant trailer and machinery etc.
Click to expand...

I suppose it all depends how you view it. In 10 years of ownership , I have probably put more into mine than I paid for her. However, had I decided to call it quits and write her off at any point I would never get back what I put in. Also another second/third/fourth/etc -hand car will bring it's own troubles. You will just have paid a nice big sum to start again.
Whereas I know how much I have done to the Golden Girl, I know how many new parts are under the skin, and despite the fact she is warning me of a new hissy fit about to come, any day now, it's worth it.
So putting £2k in for 10years of luxury motoring , whilst getting workhorse capabilities,doesn't seem a lot to me. Even if he put the same in again , £4k = £400 a year £34 a month, £8.50 a week, again doesn't seem much. If he has looked after her over those 10 years and given her everything she needs, the 'money-pit' scenario should be unlikely. Money-pits normally start as a beautiful looking, poorly maintained vehs.
So maybe it's more about, could you get something that you know so well and have looked after, and the work that has been done to this point, for the amount you might need to fix her?
 
BryanC123 said:
Yeah it was a L494 Sport, 15 plate around 50k on the clock and the 3.0 Diesel, for around £28k. The issue seemed to be the 3.0 in these cars have Crank issues and is that common across the LR range of the 3.0 blocks around 2015?

He just didn't want to plough much more money into the L322 as its now nearly 20 years old and starting to have chassis rust (something he can sort as he was a welder, many moons ago) but i'm sure most be cautious to avoid the "money pit" scenario.

When I say cheap I don't mean not using OEM parts or anything, i mean if it's basically a write off in terms of what needs spending to get the Air suspension back on the road, is it just a sensor or is it a whole ECU etc, were both not mechanically minded so wanted to try and get some guidance from fellow owners on here, as he has just spent over £2000 on the car and it's not even worth that really, in 10 years of ownership it's been pretty reliable and it's been used as it was designed - as a workhorse, towing a plant trailer and machinery etc.
Click to expand...
Reading through all these posts in my opinion he should sell the one he has for as much as possible and go shopping for another L322 for as much as he wants to spend because I doubt he will really be satisfied with the compromise of owning anything else. Once bitten and all that.
Tricky.
 
Tricky of York said:
Reading through all these posts in my opinion he should sell the one he has for as much as possible and go shopping for another L322 for as much as he wants to spend because I doubt he will really be satisfied with the compromise of owning anything else. Once bitten and all that.
Tricky.
Click to expand...
Although I suppose if looking at £28k plus, he could go for a very early L405 (and the problems they bring) :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
03 L322 EAS ECU Can bus fault / ABS temp system deactivation
Replies
1
Views
563
oldradiotech
O
Kayvoh87
Land Rover Discovery 4 Suspension Fault
Replies
8
Views
308
Kayvoh87
Kayvoh87
I
Air.Susp.Inactive message on 2005 L322
Replies
4
Views
563
invisible999
I
S
L322 Air Suspension Conundrum
Replies
14
Views
1K
backinblack
backinblack
D
2006 RRS 2.7 tdv6 gearbox help please
2 3
Replies
54
Views
4K
dave7494
D
Back
Top