L series power mods - collecting parts...............

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Joe_H

Well-Known Member
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Location
Brit in Northern Portugal
Hi all,
I am starting to get to the end of my 'parts' list for my L series mods. Already done EGR remove and Decat (decat a huge increase!)

Next to go on -

Re-chip ecu -
Pics of ECU opened and Programmer - need to replace eproms with socketed eeproms - next on the list :) - (If you ever wondered what is in your Diesel ECU - here you you.. :) - programmer is universal and freeking superb !.

L ECU.JPG programmer.JPG

Now the new turbo - It is an MGZR - the only difference is the exhaust outlet that can be changed easily -it then fits the freelander - some early units have an earlier version of this unit - most later L series have the same basic unit. I only got it for replacement as it was dirt cheap ! (and I can store my old one for the future)!

ZR 100500 turbo - FL Later L series is 100490 - marked on square casting on compressor housing.

turbo 3.JPG turbo2.JPG ZR Turbo.JPG

Next bit is quite important - it is a closed loop turbo boost regulator - used here - not for max boost - that is set by the actuator arm adjustment - this is for a preset level before the waste-gate even tries to activate ! - so, around 10 PSI Gauge. :)

Boost control 2.JPG boost control.JPG

Boost gauge for Turbo -
boost gauge.JPG

Vacuum gauge for brakes :)

vacuum.JPG

Just need the weather to cool down at the mo, too freeking hot to work outside at the mo!

Joe
 
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You miss EGT Gauge, is more important than vacuum for brakes ;)
Check oil pump for correct pressures, think about oil cooling.
Also should think about replacing rubber pipes from Turbo to IC and IC to manifold

so, around 10 PSI Gauge

Stock boost is about 15 PSI, W/g open according to rave is 17, most tuned L-series is set up around 19-20 PSI, so why 10 PSI Gauge? :)

For now I use a Ronbox VP37 - wondering about re-chip ECU, worth change Ronbox for re-map in that engine ?
 
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Dastardly hasn't been around for a few months but makes some interesting claims here.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l-series-mods.284526/
Hi ALibro, many thanks for the link. Yes I have seen that but unfortunately most of what he writes is simply incorrect. For example - injectors. It is indeed well known that replacing later 25 / 45/ ZR models with earlier SDi injectors produces a noticeable improvement due to the injector design opening pressure and nozzle arrangement. However, this doesn't and never did apply to freelanders which already have an injector of virtually equal performance as the SDi injector (even Rover Ron from RonBox / Synergy fame confirms this -) along with other well known tuners. I also have a spread sheet of the various injectors fitted. - . Nothing would be gained.
As far as Turbos go - there are also various 'myths' circulating the so called 'tuning world' and one of them that seems to have stuck, yet is simply wrong - is that the MGZR turbo offers a higher 'airspec' or performance 'potential' compared to the freelander unit. The matter confirmed by Garrett themselves is that there is absolutely no difference at all in 'airspec' and performance, or indeed core (both use exactly the same core and exactly the same A/R spec compressor housing), so the myth of a performance increase or performance increase 'potential' by fitting an MGZR turbo to a freelander is completely wrong (the only difference is the exhaust / turbine housing orientation and mounting which you simply swap over for the freelander part (from your old turbo) and yet this in no way differs again in performance (airspec) - same turbine wheel - due to exactly the same core unit) and exact same A/R spec on the turbine housing also. - again confirmed in writing by Garrett !.

He is correct on the basic electrical mods to the vp 37 pump feedback circuit) to trick the unit into a longer injection cycle. However this is fairly crude - but effectively does what the ronbox does.
Other ideas he mentions are basically crazy and I think (or hope he was simply joking) lol :) like feeding the MAP with a constant voltage etc. (DOH !)

Another area of confusion is in the 1549 turbo numbering system - some units have an 'S' suffix and are highly sort after - but again, this is meaningless as confirmed in writing by Garrett themselves (and quite a shock I presume for many portrayals of superior performance (all S Suffixes are not as per Mini Cooper 'S') lol) - ALL the turbo units fitted to ALL rover models are 'S' Suffix - as can be seen on their site. Sometimes it is written on the plate, sometimes not. The best thing is that it is beggar all to do with performance - - as per Garrett in writing ! it simply designates a turbo with an Internally Waste- gated system ! lol :) - what a disappointment for many advocating such......
So, unfortunately - mucho incorrect and blatantly misleading info out there. regarding the freelander L series. - nothing new on the internet. At least I CAN provide objective support to my info as opposed to subjective hearsay in most cases.

One point to note is that some very early freelanders have the 100400 turbo fitted which indeed does use a different core - there were limited in numbers. - to check - the plate on the turbo compressor (well the number stamped into the compressor casting) will tell you, it is easily accessible. you are looking for 100490, if so, you have the highest performance GT1549 turbo fitted to any L series (exactly equal in performance and capability as the MGZR unit.
Here is the one on my L series. If anyone needs copies of the research and info from Garrett re the 'lack' of difference and performance for each unit - FL or ZR - please let me know.

StillSnapshot000000.jpg

Hybrid turbos can definitely make a difference - but at the expense of low down performance - great for a street car - useless for most in a freelander.
All good fun isnt it.

Joe
 
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You miss EGT Gauge, is more important than vacuum for brakes ;)
Check oil pump for correct pressures, think about oil cooling.
Also should think about replacing rubber pipes from Turbo to IC and IC to manifold



Stock boost is about 15 PSI, W/g open according to rave is 17, most tuned L-series is set up around 19-20 PSI, so why 10 PSI Gauge? :)

For now I use a Ronbox VP37 - wondering about re-chip ECU, worth change Ronbox for re-map in that engine ?

Hi WInu, thanks for the comments, the vacuum gauge is a temporary measure :)
The L series already has a very efficient oil cooler (a water to oil exchanger) - far more efficient than most air to oil exchangers. Also the times I have seen engines ruined by remote oil cooler issues is many - either due to physical damage to the cooler heat exchanger or piping issues (aeroquip or not).
Oil pressure would be useful but my plan is to do what we always did with the rally cars - simply fit a higher pressure actuating oil pressure switch (20 PSI or whatever) - note this can be teed into the block and the original low pressure retained as well - and a VERY noticeable light that the driver cannot miss - the small wing indicator repeater lights are good ! ;).
I confess to haveing absolutely no concerns re EGT at all.
The 'pipes' from the compressor to IC and then to inlet have already been replaced with new original equipment ones and are well up to the job. More than capable of running 20 PSI all day long.
You seem to misunderstand the purpose of the closed loop boost regulator here.This is not an open loop 'bleed off' reg.
Boost will be around 20 PSI on the waste gate actuator, the purpose of the closed loop unit in series set to (approximately 10psi) is not to allow ANY boost through to the waste gate BELOW this figure. ABOVE 10 PSI the waste gate operates completely as normal - up the the figure set via the actuator rod.
The closed loop reg is an adjustable 'ball and spring' arrangement so that the ball is closing the inlet to the waste-gate (the feed from the compressor) as the pressure rises above the limit, the ball lifts from the spring seat and allows standard operation. -
The reason for this is that any pressure operated mechanical waste gate will begin to open at far less pressure than it's maximum set pressure, this causes partial wastegate opening which is undesirable. Controlling this leads to more rapid 'spool up' and less turbo lag, small but noticable differences. - The spring ball closed loop reg does not allow the wastegate to open at all until a preset pressure is reached thereby reducing a form of wastegate lower pressure opening 'creep' - . Hope that is clear now mate ?
As for the ronbox, yes it works, but is crude. It has no control over the smoke maps or injection advance at all. A remap is a far better option and most repsectable re-mapper would work with you to produce a custom map based on the spec of your vehicle. I am using Kris at http://www.dieselpowered.co.uk/. Note on his pages he still lists the info regarding the turbo differences I have only just passed the info from Garrett onto him. Also, if the 100400 turbo is fitted to your L series a ZR or later Freelander 100490 unit would offer greater tuning potential. - the info should read more on the lines of - the lower spec turbo is the 100400, the higher spec and exactly equal to the ZR turbo is the 100490 - the user would need to check. Potential best case gains are - 135-160 BHP and 220 to 260 Lb/ft torque. I think a realistic figure to aim for would be around 140 hp with around 230 lb/ft Torque. Kris is confident that this can be achieved. The L Series ECU cannot be remapped by OBD ! - the remap involves physical removal of the two 27C256 UV erasable eproms on the MSA-11 ecu and sockets adding - then the original eproms are read, the code modified by Kris and the units replaced with EEPROMS - such as the SST27SF512 or Winbond W27C512. As they are now socketed (unpluggable and repluggable - and re-programmable in seconds - changes to mapping are relatively fast. ) eeproms they can be quickly changed if an update or mod is needed. Due to me living in Portugal, and also thanks to electronic engineering experience, Kris has agreed that I do all the physical mods to the ECU - socketting and reading / writing (e)eproms and he will do the coding and send it to me to flash to the units. However, for normal folks you can send him the ecu and he will do it for you at a very reasonable price.
It is a very interesting subject (for me lol ;)) and a lot of the time is taken up in dispelling some of the myths that surround the L series tuning. Simple changes to an L series in a rover 45 for example are readily available - not so in a Freelander L series, yet correct remapping , tweaking turbo boost and certainly egr / cat removal can make a really huge difference. Thanks for the input.
Joe
 
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Hi,Thanks for info :)
I got 100490 Turbo in my car (its one of last one L-series from December 1999), for now set up at 19 PSI with same type regulator as yours, and controlled by Ronbox. EGR Removed, Stainless steel air pipes. Just need to de-cat it and make new exhaust .

Thanks for the link, i will contact with him, I'm from Poland, so probably can send him an ECU for job. Car is quite heavy - up to 1850 Kg,s with all equipment, maybe a proper re-map will be a better option (better suit) than using Ronbox (also it is an external device, and can broke up)
 
Hi,Thanks for info :)
I got 100490 Turbo in my car (its one of last one L-series from December 1999), for now set up at 19 PSI with same type regulator as yours, and controlled by Ronbox. EGR Removed, Stainless steel air pipes. Just need to de-cat it and make new exhaust .

Thanks for the link, i will contact with him, I'm from Poland, so probably can send him an ECU for job. Car is quite heavy - up to 1850 Kg,s with all equipment, maybe a proper re-map will be a better option (better suit) than using Ronbox (also it is an external device, and can broke up)
Hi Winu, no problem at all. - Nice one, you have the correct turbo :) - try adjusting the closed loop reg for almost nothing, then adjust the wastegate actuator rod for 19 / 20 psi (20 is fine on that turbo) - then gradually increase the closed loop unit to about 10 psi to close down the creep - you still want some slight opening range in between 10 and 20 - or 8 and 20 - whatever you set - so as maintain a bit of a better progression at lower speed / low throttle driving (you can check it off the car with a compressor and an accurate gauge - it is the best way to use it imho. but experiment - it can make a great difference) - I do not believe many freelanders were fitted with the 100400 unit (even then this is perfectly good for up to 135 hp and possibly more. If a freelander DID have a 100400 originally and it had been replaced at some time - It would almost certainly have the 100490 anyway.
Kris is a really genuine and nice guy, he is very busy though and may take a while to respond to emails.. I think the ronbox is great unit and a very good way to do a bsic power increase, but, it is not in any way equivalent to good remap. There are some 'remap' files on ebay - definitely avoid those !. or indeed, any downloaded from the internet. Each setup can be slightly different. Kris will read your existing eproms and alter YOUR specific map files. (From memory) there are 24 individual maps in the eproms for all aspects of the engine performance ! ) obviously not all are altered - but as you can see a ronbox can only do so much. It is also easy to make your own ronbox type unit as described in the first link by alibro. It is a very very simple mod listed in the post and could be improved by adding an idle sensor either from the TPS or map sensor that cuts the unit off at idle where it is not needed and counter productive.
The other thing is that the Ronbox is a very well respected unit and therefor will fetch a good second hand price that will probably pay for more than 50% of a remap.
The decat is the single mot beneficial change I have made so far - EGR removal was hardly noticeable and was done to keep the engine cleaner more than as a performance tweek.. The decat though was night and day - I did not replace the cat at all, simply remove it and 'smash' the innards out.. a very satisfying feeling lol.
Difference really was night and day. A cat will certainly start to get contaminated and restrict flow slightly with age, however, it is restrictive in it's nature. Getting rid of it is easy and of no cost. My freeby has done 215,000km however the engine is like new internally..
Out of interest - if you want any turbo's for your freelander or to keep in stock (I believe you service freelanders mate ?) - check out this link - these are superb - MGZR units (as per my pics above) at crazy prices (and original Garrett) 70 quid !!! - they are the MGZR 100500 unit !- they will fit the freelander perfectly with a turbine housing / exhaust housing swap for the original freelander one from the 100490 and are exactly the same ( exactly the same unit is in my images above and that is where it came from !) again - all you need to do is swap the turbine / exhaust housing over to the freelander one as the mounting is different on the ZR - everything else is the same - the whole unit is cheaper than even a crappy rebuilt core !. Note, the part number quoted is the garrett number - the OEM number is the 100500. (they seem to be dumping a hell of a lot of the rover stuff onto the market - and yes - they ARE genuine units)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZR-Tur...856966?hash=item3ac8ac9606:g:bEMAAOSw7hRWQkQd
Worth buying and sticking on the shelf :)

Back to the oil pressure issue- we found that when using rally . race cars - the driver hardly ever actually looked at the instruments - even rev counter ! - it was all done by ear with full concentration on the actual road ahead. !. that is why most instruments are pretty useless really apart from a quick check when not actually in use. Obviously it is different in a road car.
By using a high pressure oil switch that illuminated an eye catching light it was found to be far superior to a gauge. Same for battery voltage / charging - a very noticeable light that illuminated in the case of charging circuit malfunction. In almost ALL cases of low oil pressure it was caused by a piping issue / filter issue either to or from the dry sump pump to tank or from to the oil cooler.
As to progressive oil pressure degradation, with modern oils then the simple effect of using both high and low pressure warning lights it is very easy to tell of an impending or deteriorating issue by noting (approximately of course) the time taken for the low pressure and high pressure to extinguish on startup. - a simple but very effective check and even more reliable with modern multigrade oils.
Regards my friend and hello to you in Poland.
Joe
 
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Hi,Thanks for info :)
Thanks for the link, i will contact with him, I'm from Poland, so probably can send him an ECU for job.

Just a few points my friend.
The ECU you send would need to be the one from YOUR vehicle as it is coded to your CCU unit for the immobiliser. !
There are way around this - I have several MSA-11 Freelander DI units that I am experimenting on at the moment.

Looking at this image - as far as I can ascertain without further testing -

L ECU locations.JPG

Then, the yellow outlined are definitely the normal eproms that need removing and socketing and replacing after programming. ! - no worries there - however - - - -
The outlined blue - and blue and green eeproms are 93C46 8 pin units and control the vehicle data and immobiliser coding from the CCU (as well as other aspects)
It 'should' be possible to copy these two units to your existing ecu - however - that means removing the two 8 pin chips from the pcb - or - as I am experimenting with at the moment - - using an in circuit programmer to read and then write the units on the pcb - the main power supply lead to the chip needs to be lifted though to allow this to happen - and you need some fairy good kit. (as int he images below) - This works ok for me and from early tests it would appear I can clone the ECU / DCU with this method (I have only played about with it though!)
It is also possible (afaik) to remove the lower 93C46 unit completely - disconnect the wire communicating the immobilise signal wire from the ccu to the dcu and then disconnect the starter disable wire from the starter relay - after that - you can fit any ecu with the lower 93c46 removed. However, this gets complicated lol.
Using a genuine T4 LR unit (rare as hens teeth) it is possible to code the DCU to the CCU so I believe - It may be possible with the lynx although I doubt it.
I can program the 93C46 on the PCB no issues for me, but otherwise would be a nightmare. - so basically - it is far simpler to send the ACTUAL ECU from the vehicle for programming.

Now, as for the exhaust, it is not likely to make much difference at all (by increasing the size) although certainly worth experimenting. The turbine and cat are the greatest restrictions by far. The cat is easy to remove, the turbine is fixed although with higher flow - both non waste gated and post waste-gated it could well make a difference - personally - I will do all the changes before deciding. ON a diesel, one can remove - for example - the back box if one considers it a restriction and test - a bit noisy - but hey ! :) - even your smart phone has simple apps to test 'more or less' increases' in performance (if noticeable) and certainly a lynx or similar can log the speed v boost graph to show low end restriction removal.
Bottom line is I do not think the exhaust is something to worry about at an early stage - maybe later, but, even then......
Joe

edit - some images of first attempts at programming the tiny 93C46 in circuit with a special IC clip and programmer adaptor...
 

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Oh, and also in the first image above - notice the red outlined part -! that is the ambient air pressure sensor contained WITHIN the ecu - very neat unit. :) - most impressed - old tech but bloody good and seemingly indestructible in normal use. Also p!ss easy to repair if needed.
Lovely - repairable - sensible to work on and extrmely reliable.
Joe
 
Freelander injectors have a smaller nozzle orifice size vs SDi injectors (don't have the numbers to hand) and a few of us have tried it, and the increase in smoke and performance is noticeable. Similarly, fitting them to a VP30 pumped L series (25/45/ZR/ZS) shows less power vs SDi injectors. To get similar power levels, requires additional fueling in the mapping - Kris can attest to this.

On my hippo, it did indeed have the earlier SD/SDi style compressor wheel. There are physical differences in the shape of the wheel, which give reduced efficiency over the "late spec" wheel (note: I never say "S", as it's always seemed a bit hit and miss as to whether these are even stamped as such). And these are easily visible - the early design are more rounded/curved, whilst the higher efficiency style have straighter leading edges on the fins.

There is indeed the chance that when building the Hippo L, that Rover stayed true to character, and simply fitted whatever was lying around, as can be witnessed in many of the engines (on the late spec engines - some have a plain intake manifold, some have a blanking plug, some have a redundant temp sensor used as a bung. No rhyme or reason behind it)

Tried feeding the MAP sensor a fixed voltage, and it didn't like it, lol. I can't do mapping, and I have no intention of learning how to map - Kris can do it with ease, so there's no need for me to try, and only end up with half a good as a result as he can.... so I just try little things, to see how "intelligent" the crude Hippo ECU is.

If the EGR is working - you'll notice utterly zero power improvement. When you're requesting power, they're not used.

You'd only notice an improvement in power from removing the catalytic converter, if yours was blocked. Turbo spool, yes. But not power.


The hybrid turbo I designed, had more power than stock by 1800rpm. So even though the "lag" is still barely any different to stock, you're making more power at those points anyway
 
Freelander injectors have a smaller nozzle orifice size vs SDi injectors (don't have the numbers to hand) and a few of us have tried it, and the increase in smoke and performance is noticeable. Similarly, fitting them to a VP30 pumped L series (25/45/ZR/ZS) shows less power vs SDi injectors. To get similar power levels, requires additional fueling in the mapping - Kris can attest to this.

On my hippo, it did indeed have the earlier SD/SDi style compressor wheel. There are physical differences in the shape of the wheel, which give reduced efficiency over the "late spec" wheel (note: I never say "S", as it's always seemed a bit hit and miss as to whether these are even stamped as such). And these are easily visible - the early design are more rounded/curved, whilst the higher efficiency style have straighter leading edges on the fins.

There is indeed the chance that when building the Hippo L, that Rover stayed true to character, and simply fitted whatever was lying around, as can be witnessed in many of the engines (on the late spec engines - some have a plain intake manifold, some have a blanking plug, some have a redundant temp sensor used as a bung. No rhyme or reason behind it)

Tried feeding the MAP sensor a fixed voltage, and it didn't like it, lol. I can't do mapping, and I have no intention of learning how to map - Kris can do it with ease, so there's no need for me to try, and only end up with half a good as a result as he can.... so I just try little things, to see how "intelligent" the crude Hippo ECU is.

If the EGR is working - you'll notice utterly zero power improvement. When you're requesting power, they're not used.

You'd only notice an improvement in power from removing the catalytic converter, if yours was blocked. Turbo spool, yes. But not power.


The hybrid turbo I designed, had more power than stock by 1800rpm. So even though the "lag" is still barely any different to stock, you're making more power at those points anyway
Good to see you back on the forum :)

All this talk of tweaks to give a little more power and a lot more noise and smoke is fine and dandy, but what we really want to know is..... how to fix a Nerf gun to the bonnet :)

In fact, any other essentially useless but totally awesome modifications!

I'm also still waiting on the parts list for replacing the VCU with a leccy motor :)
 
No need for fisticuffs - research can either show you part of the picture, the full picture, or sometimes entirely wrong information. Sometimes there's no way to tell which one you're heading down, until you're balls deep.

As for the Nerf - I've gone as far as a standard Nerf can go. And it's still quite pants tbh. Nerf Stampede, piston modified, afterburner arrangement, and 12v battery.



It tries to crap itself (watch the video!) yet it's still just shredding darts instead of firing them as fast as I'm wanting :(



Going to make a vacuum cannon instead from bits at work. That'll be more fun, lol


As for my car - moved onto a Rover 75. Still with a hippo friendly M47R, but with a much larger turbo planned:
DSC_0486.jpg

 
Hello Dan :)
Freelander injectors have a smaller nozzle orifice size vs SDi injectors (don't have the numbers to hand) and a few of us have tried it, and the increase in smoke and performance is noticeable. Similarly, fitting them to a VP30 pumped L series (25/45/ZR/ZS) shows less power vs SDi injectors. To get similar power levels, requires additional fueling in the mapping - Kris can attest to this.
The spread sheet from Kris (which he got from the rover forums possibly with your help) shows the slight differences and nozzle numbers etc. Kris is certainly under the impression that changing the Freeby ones for SDi is pointless in reality - even if remapping. I am certainly not bothering changing them as the realistic difference is so minimal as to be pointless.

On my hippo, it did indeed have the earlier SD/SDi style compressor wheel. There are physical differences in the shape of the wheel, which give reduced efficiency over the "late spec" wheel (note: I never say "S", as it's always seemed a bit hit and miss as to whether these are even stamped as such). And these are easily visible - the early design are more rounded/curved, whilst the higher efficiency style have straighter leading edges on the fins.
It would appear that the 100490 turbo was fitted from early 98, however, the only way is to check the number on the compressor housing. The earlier 100400 is indeed a different animal. All units are indeed S (as said - it only represents internally wastegated - nothing more. Garrett even admitted that they sometimes added it, sometimes didnt lol :) - it is however always shown on the Garrett website. It was actually another well known 'tuner' who quoted the 'S' suffix as the unit needed :rolleyes: - certainly not Kris.

Tried feeding the MAP sensor a fixed voltage, and it didn't like it, lol. I can't do mapping, and I have no intention of learning how to map - Kris can do it with ease, so there's no need for me to try, and only end up with half a good as a result as he can.... so I just try little things, to see how "intelligent" the crude Hippo ECU is.
lol :D definitely not recommended....the ecu is not that crude really, it certainly rejected a max map signal with low CPS rpm input. :) :) - what did it do ? - did it drop to fail safe mode (it should limit the injection quantity to 21mg per stroke and put the money light on) - or did it just go tits up ;). Yes, as far as mapping is concerned I will leave that to the expert. I have no problem actually programming the replaced eeproms (after removing the old eproms and socketing the board. The smaller eeproms are interesting though - the 2 - 8 pin 93c46 units. I am very interested in poking around with the code in there but that is not for power mods - it is for ecu 'swap-ability' - (different topic lol)

If the EGR is working - you'll notice utterly zero power improvement. When you're requesting power, they're not used.
My egr was crudded, but still working properly. Reason I removed it was blocked waterways in the first instance. For some reason in Portugal many people think antifreeze / corrosion inhibitors are not needed .:( .... whilst the lump was out we removed all core plugs cleaned everything out and then replaced the core plugs - all fine now. Best place for it is in the bin....

You'd only notice an improvement in power from removing the catalytic converter, if yours was blocked. Turbo spool, yes. But not power.
Faster turbo spool up is definitely noticeable bringing in the power / torque at a lower rpm and certainly more effortless driving at 1800 - 2200 rpm. All cats on higher mileage engines will degrade with contamination over time. Also, all cats offer a restriction to flow - even if slight and even if in good nick - again, best place is in the bin imho. :)

The hybrid turbo I designed, had more power than stock by 1800rpm. So even though the "lag" is still barely any different to stock, you're making more power at those points anyway
I considered the hybrid approach but must confess cba factor is high these days and I am generally impressed with the standard (100490) spec turbo and the tuning potential of the unit.
35 / 40 years ago I would have played more with hybrid units - at that time we were making our own throttle bodies for adding injection systems to carburated engines - originally using modified K jettronic systems then later the Weber Alpha type programmable units. We also using forced induction but mostly with draw through carburation prior to the turbo (again owing to lack of injected candidates).. but would now rather go the easy route :D - pumping huge amounts of highly volatile mixture through lengths of pipe was not something to give one a warm feeling - (unless literally) .... ho hum.
I seriously considered doing various modifications to the fuelling such as the rather crude feeback loop mod on the vp37 but this is too much of a scatter gun approach. I could refine it quite easily with an embedded microprocessor and take into account other sensors and non linear control of fuelling - also injection timing adjustment is quite possible with a micro, however, when guys like Kris are about why bother ??;) all that can be done by him very easily and at a great price.


Did you ever complete that crazy looking twin turbo unit :D - that looked a rather 'interesting' project... it should have shown you in the background with a white coat, a shock of white hair and a flux capacitor lol.:cool:.. they are the sort of crazy things I like to see - just dont get it to 88 mph......

Joe
 
Sat to one side - as I picked up that HX55 to turn into a supercharger..... but then life happened, and I couldn't afford to build it, lol. No space to justify it on the 75, so just throwing on the vnt, and calling it a day with regards forced induction on this one.

The injectors do make a noticeable difference - I'd heavily recommend at least borrowing some, and seeing the difference for yourself.

Also, I don't have a white lab coat, I've got a blue one. The research scientists get the white ones (Lab use only) the Engineers get blue - not that I've had much use for it, being sat in the office for 3 weeks being stuck to CAD... my eyes burn, lol
 
No need for fisticuffs - research can either show you part of the picture, the full picture, or sometimes entirely wrong information. Sometimes there's no way to tell which one you're heading down, until you're balls deep.
Never a truer word. :)
Good research is seldom wasted - one has to be extremely careful of the internet though as so much incorrect and misleading info is out there - far better going to the source if possible - but - eventually you have to get your hands dirty and 'suck it and see'

ps. like the M47 tiny turbo ;)
 
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Sat to one side - as I picked up that HX55 to turn into a supercharger..... but then life happened, and I couldn't afford to build it, lol. No space to justify it on the 75, so just throwing on the vnt, and calling it a day with regards forced induction on this one.

The injectors do make a noticeable difference - I'd heavily recommend at least borrowing some, and seeing the difference for yourself.

Also, I don't have a white lab coat, I've got a blue one. The research scientists get the white ones (Lab use only) the Engineers get blue - not that I've had much use for it, being sat in the office for 3 weeks being stuck to CAD... my eyes burn, lol
lol, shame really.
Ref injectors I will check with Kris again. I can get some from the UK if needed, getting anything like that here is a waste of time !. Basically what Kris was saying (IIRC) is that for the negligible difference they would make, the remap can more than compensate as we are not looking for 160 bhp and 260 Lb/ft :)
A far more modest output with as much low down grunt as possible. The freeby is only used as a second vehicle for messing. not much mud plugging here - mainly very steep and rocky tracks - (small rocks - not boulders :) - there are some amazing ex smugglers / and wartime 'trading' tracks (Portugal was neutral in WW2 ) from Gires in the North (not far from us) that go over the mountains and into Spain. Incredible drives.
Joe
 
Dan told me about this thread, I thought i'd have a look in but unfortunately I only have time to give it a 20 second skim (knee deep in a university assignment, and residential course next week)

There's a lot of talk about misinformation etc, we never go out of our way to mislead, however tuning is mostly reverse engineering so at core a lot of information is based on research, taking stuff apart, comparing bits of information and testing. It's prone to error at times, no attempt will ever be made to mislead but the whole art of tuning is finding out what's right and wrong, and typically it is a mix of both.

Whilst the technology and knowhow to map these ecu's is well established (its amongst the oldest and simplest ecu families to work with) the demand for these is quite small (or it has been in my experience) so Joe is likely to be asking questions in his project that few have asked before, even if it might seem quite obvious to him!

Anyway, I won't banter on but thought i'd pop in and say hello as it has been a while since I've last managed to sit down and do some good old fashioned emailing, I also want to put to bed any risk of conflict because I've a lot of respect for the knowledge of every single poster here.

Kris
 
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