K&N filter
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Dr_evil
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Well seeing as the engine isn't air cooled it wont help the cooling :doh:
The idea is it gets more air into the mix so you get hotter combustion therefore giving more power
The idea is it gets more air into the mix so you get hotter combustion therefore giving more power
Dr_evil
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I had a K&N filter in my td4 for 20k, gave a bit extra near the top of the rev range as you could hear it over the clatter.
Only removed as it needs a proper clean and re-oil. Then it will be going back in. Ive had no issues with mine and it complements the remap that mine has.
Only removed as it needs a proper clean and re-oil. Then it will be going back in. Ive had no issues with mine and it complements the remap that mine has.
Vissie
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Mine went at 96k
Still had old type gasket and plaggy dowels.
Legend has it, they build 1 decent 1.8k. Seems you found it!
Although tbh , changing headgaskets is a easy job on them and i think they're a great engine if you own a socket set
warehouse13
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mines ok thanks. perhaps its because i look after it?
got a k&n direct replacment filter..cant say it made any difference but i dont throw it away at service time..just clean it out. maybe a saving over years?
the 1.8 is not exactly restricted in induction so its not going to make make a huge difference..saying that most i see are never serviced so even a cheapo filter is going to be better than a clogged up one!
got a k&n direct replacment filter..cant say it made any difference but i dont throw it away at service time..just clean it out. maybe a saving over years?
the 1.8 is not exactly restricted in induction so its not going to make make a huge difference..saying that most i see are never serviced so even a cheapo filter is going to be better than a clogged up one!
I certainly hope so, having a good socket set's one thing, paying for gaskets bolts etc....is another
Vissie
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Well the ladder rack and modded headbolts are a one time thing really. Although the headbolts are stretch bolts, once you have the modded ones, they are generally reusable.
Once all the thermostat and ladder rack and all the other mods are done , headgasket failure is then a 1-2 hour job cost like £40?
I'm also trying to think of the last time i saw a K series with plastic dowls and im thinking they brought out the first (of many) modified headgaskets with metal dowls available from parts in about 2001 (ish). You must be gentle as hell on your engine! Seems the K series runs off TLC.
Once all the thermostat and ladder rack and all the other mods are done , headgasket failure is then a 1-2 hour job cost like £40?
I'm also trying to think of the last time i saw a K series with plastic dowls and im thinking they brought out the first (of many) modified headgaskets with metal dowls available from parts in about 2001 (ish). You must be gentle as hell on your engine! Seems the K series runs off TLC.
Amen to that tlc all the way.
I never rev mine over 3k rpm til its up to temp, then i rarely go over 4k whilst driving cos it drinks like a fish at those revs but it does pull like a train though
Dint bother wi new oil rail and haven't yet fitted cooling mod.
Mines a 99 so plaggy dowels were still en vogue then.
Check your fluids
watch your revs
look for leaks
and watch the skies
Mick
I never rev mine over 3k rpm til its up to temp, then i rarely go over 4k whilst driving cos it drinks like a fish at those revs but it does pull like a train though
Dint bother wi new oil rail and haven't yet fitted cooling mod.
Mines a 99 so plaggy dowels were still en vogue then.
Check your fluids
watch your revs
look for leaks
and watch the skies
Mick
freebiker
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I had a K&N conical filter before i installed my direct to head throttle bodies.
I'd definitely recommend the K&N filter as it gives the throttle a little more response.
You could even go one step further and replace the 48mm throttle body with a 52mm.
The change of throttle body size or air filter type shouldn't affect the life of the engine.
Water intake through the air filter shouldn't be a problem at all, i never had any problems like this, even with a air intake cut into my bonnet and driving through floods. It's quite high up in the engine bay.
I'd definitely recommend the K&N filter as it gives the throttle a little more response.
You could even go one step further and replace the 48mm throttle body with a 52mm.
The change of throttle body size or air filter type shouldn't affect the life of the engine.
Water intake through the air filter shouldn't be a problem at all, i never had any problems like this, even with a air intake cut into my bonnet and driving through floods. It's quite high up in the engine bay.
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freebiker
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I've fitted a few other bits and bobs such as direct to head throttle bodies, uprated exhaust etc.
Go for it. It'll make a nice grunt.
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VVC Head?
Like changing it for a Toyota one
Know what ya mean Mad Hatter
Strangely enough a lot of Elise owners that bought post 2006 ones took out the Toyota unit and chucked a k back in cos the power to weight wuz better!
Lighter car, less strain on engine, i know, i know
Not sure I want it to grunt, i'd settle for it not self detonating
Sounds like that should only really come from the back of a tratter:hysterically_laughi
I do find it interesting, however, how these engines can be tuned to deliver much much more power than standard though.
freebiker
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Unfortunately not (yet / not sure whether to). Gutted i missed out on a few VVC heads that were a good price recently.
