Just bought LR Freelander Td4 need's Your opinion

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pgolonek

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Lanc's
Hi I just bought LR Freelander Td4 2004 reg. for £2400
it's drive very nice, not rattling no shake on steering wheel, drive's very nice
but there is a dark side of that car too, U can see it on pic's
car has been checked by Independent Land Rover Garage at Preston Lanc's
they said its ok :)
but I cannot sleep thinking about when car will die on the middle of the road :(
will do more pic if needed for opinion
please any advice welcome
folderview


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7oS46kRPolBTXRGOFM3NzlKNDg&usp=sharing
big thx
 
is it your first Land Rover? when it stops leaking it's cause it ran out of oil, then there is a problem.

if it bothers you that much take of the sump guard and clean the engine so you can identify origin of leak, if it is just a slight leak don't worry and just check the oil level regularly. that's what I've been doing for 6 years of ownership.
 
is it your first Land Rover? when it stops leaking it's cause it ran out of oil, then there is a problem.

if it bothers you that much take of the sump guard and clean the engine so you can identify origin of leak, if it is just a slight leak don't worry and just check the oil level regularly. that's what I've been doing for 6 years of ownership.

Yes it is my first Land Rover (may be these weird but been dream on about LR since were kid)
it's look like will do service with oils on all boxes
is it normal when turning on first gear it go slowly like been pressed brake gently?
 
Yes it is my first Land Rover (may be these weird but been dream on about LR since were kid)
it's look like will do service with oils on all boxes
is it normal when turning on first gear it go slowly like been pressed brake gently?

How many miles has it done?

Does it feel like the handbrake is on when reversing on full lock?
 
oils and filter changes are always a good starting point on a new 10 year old car, also should also check last time timing chain and belts where replaced, slow on cornering in full lock is it dragging one of the wheels? check the VCU, do the 1 wheel up test as on the sticky threads.
 
It has 115,800 k miles on clock
Mechanic from Independent LR garage checked visco after 20 min. drive test on road with some bars he said was all right.
When reverse on full turn may say its braking but hard to feel
Will do one wheel up test, maybe at weekend.
Thx for help
 
oils and filter changes are always a good starting point on a new 10 year old car, also should also check last time timing chain and belts where replaced, slow on cornering in full lock is it dragging one of the wheels? check the VCU, do the 1 wheel up test as on the sticky threads.


Does that test have to be after long trip (warm visco) or more cooled?
 
Well really obvious from the pics are the mis-matching tyres. Looks like AT's at the front and road tyres rear. This needs to be sorted ASAP as it's a leading cause of component failure on the drive train.
 
Well really obvious from the pics are the mis-matching tyres. Looks like AT's at the front and road tyres rear. This needs to be sorted ASAP as it's a leading cause of component failure on the drive train.

so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber :)
 
so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber :)

AT tyres will handle differently to ordinary tyres, so regardless of what vehicle they are on it's never a good idea to mix and match from a safety point of view. It's just that Freelandaes are even less tolerant due to it's drivetrain.
However, you may only need to buy a pair to match to whichever style tyre has the tread that suits you. But again they will need to be like for like and not "similair" from a different brand, and always the newest on the rear.
 
so here we go... mechanic said its ok with that if thread is about the same
now its look like another 400 quid for new rubber :)

If the mechanic said that then I would view him with caution.... he know not what he is talking about. The vitally important matter is that all of the tyres have the same circumference - if you have mis-matched makes and types then that is unlikely to be the case. You will probably find that 1 in 20 threads on this forum are about drive-train problems caused by mismatched tyres.

Don't go far until you have 4 matching tyres... looks a nice vehicle would be a shame to ruin it.

As others have said, keep an eye on the oil levels and what it leaves on the drive. For many, this is routine.
 
Right. At front axle I've got hankook AT 195 x 80 x 15 so Im going to buy same make with same thread.
Rear axle is same size but no AT.
I understand cannot expect a lot of tires worth £60 each.

Going this way, the mechanic test with crowbars about viscous coupling its worth ****.

Now I'm on panic mode, for how long that car been running on them tires like that?!
I did 400 miles now
OMG
 
Looks ok for the price :) take heed on the advice given by fellow members regarding tyres :eek: match all 4 make/model/size , plenty of info on here , it just needs some TLC :D
 
Will do, there is no other way !

If you are getting no drone at speed the tyres on the car by chance may be within tolerance , so driving the 400 miles may not have caused any damage , another check is to feel the VCU after a run if is cold/warm that is normal , if it is very hot then you have got problems , theres only 5mm tolerance between front and rear tyres , which is not much :eek:
 
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