Just bought a military defender 90 300tdi

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looking good. nothing a bit of buffing and some gorilla tape cant sort. i asked my mate about the 24v thing, he's a major in the REME and he says Quote "All vehicles are 24v and have been since about 96 - if you are looking at ex military, there may be some old defenders/SIII which are 12v.
It was costing too much in blown 12v bulbs to run both fleets.
so there it is 24v everything
would be nice to know where it served, which unit etc best of luck with it i'm sure it will be whizzing along the roads real soon
 
bdlandy110 said:
Wonder how that works!!
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Its a standard military light switch.
From left to right you have -

HST - Headlights, side lights and tail lights - This is the one you use most

ST - Side lights and tail lights

T - Just tail lights

OFF - All off (brake lights, horn, hazards etc all work as normal)

CONV - All lights including brake lights and horn etc disabled. This is a tactical setting. There is a convoy light that shines on the rear diff.

SCONV - As above but with front side lights on too

The switch doesnt look complete though. Also you shouldnt have any need for CONV or SCONV settings outside of the army. HST, ST, T and OFF are all safe to use. You still get full functioning brake lights and horns etc in these settings.

Also everyone is talking about british military spec on here. That land rover doesnt have any of the wolf features that you would expect a wolf to have. Is it ex Bangladesh army? The doors, lights, wings, wing tops, bonnet, light surrounds, wheels etc arent wolf spec.
 
JAMESHAVINDEN499 said:
all army landrovers are 24v (im a army mechanic) nothing in them is 12v (appart from the batts) if u want to slave them of a 12v system connect the jump leads to ONE battery and it will turn.. but will be weak failing that.. give it the good old bump start (2nd gear is usually the best) any questions feel free to pm me

james
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I'm ex REME and as already stated the only landrovers that were 24v were the ffr ones but i guess things may of changed since i was in as they were all petrol for one thing.
Would they not be a split charge? :scratching_chin:
 
I work on alot of rusty shed that live in garages for years haha quick check over first make sure its got all wiring to starter motor reg lads love messing about and liberating parts. give her a little drop pf fresh oil to lube up the gallery maybe a touch of easy start as ypy crank get her burnong quick and fingers crossed shell fly up ok of u jump her hope this helps you x
 
outlaw offroad said:
I work on alot of rusty shed that live in garages for years haha quick check over first make sure its got all wiring to starter motor reg lads love messing about and liberating parts. give her a little drop pf fresh oil to lube up the gallery maybe a touch of easy start as ypy crank get her burnong quick and fingers crossed shell fly up ok of u jump her hope this helps you x
Click to expand...

You're correct. They probably did swap out the starter motor. It's got a busted contact switch. Luckily everyone switched to 12v and I located a as new 24v starter. Hope to get it on and crank her. I still haven't been able to check the timing belt. Couldnt open the main pulley nut. Mechanic says half a crank will loosen it. Is this required to check the belt? Cant it be seen from anywhere? Going slow and easy. Everything else seems superb!
 
Good way to loosen the nut is a long handle ratchet with a pole when switch the ratchet to undo and lightly crank the engine it will crack right off make sure you use a six sided socket and old wd40 quick cjeck and tighten her down in gear hope it helps
 
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