Jumpstart Toyota FJ60 Landcruiser

Dumb question probably but my boyfriend car maintainer just left for Costa
Rica for 7 weeks and I stupidly left my lights on and drained the battery
(ies?) down. Tow truck arrived and he was unable to start. Does anyone
know how I go about jumpstarting a 12 volt 2 battery system? Hopeless with
cars ...

> Dumb question probably but my boyfriend car maintainer just left for Costa
> Rica for 7 weeks and I stupidly left my lights on and drained the battery
> (ies?) down. Tow truck arrived and he was unable to start. Does anyone
> know how I go about jumpstarting a 12 volt 2 battery system? Hopeless
with
> cars ...
>
>
Presumably if it has 2 batteries, they are connected in parallel, and all
you need to do is connect the jump leads across the nearest battery in the
normal manner.

You may find that if there are 2 batteries, and they are both very flat,
they will tend to pull the voltage down on the jump leads, to the extent
that it still will not start. In this case, leave the leads on for half an
hour or so, while running the donor vehicle on an fast idle, so that the
batteries on the Toyota have chance to take some charge.A

Alternatively, tow start it, assuming it is a manual.

Oh, and don't forget to sack the towtruck driver, what bloody use is a
recovery firm who cant carry out a simple jump start!

In message <[email protected]>, SimonJ <[email protected]>
writes

>Oh, and don't forget to sack the towtruck driver, what bloody use is a
>recovery firm who cant carry out a simple jump start!

No defence I know but some Landcruiser's are 24v and he may have only
had a 12v wagon or 12v jump pack. A 24v decent jump pack costs about
3-600ukp!! If you are only going to use it once in a blue moon then it's
not worth it, BUT, he should have explained the reason why he could not
get the vehicle going, there is no excuse for that at all, that's just
bad manners and not very good for customer relations.

*****If your landy OR ANY OTHER for that matter is a recent one then
**DO NOT FIT** jumps leads that are not ECU friendly as this may damage
it good style*****

*****Also if your landy is prone to backfiring then do not tow start it
as this may also damage your catalytic converter*****

Ps. Not an advert but I do this for a living!!
--
Regards.

Graham Jones
G and M Vehicle Distribution
Oakley Heights
63 Oakenbottom Rd
Bolton
Lancashire
BL2 6DQ
VAT: GB 785 4491 84
Tel/Fax:01204 393123
Mob:07866 255727

In article <[email protected]>, Graham Jones wrote:
>
> *****If your landy OR ANY OTHER for that matter is a recent one then
> **DO NOT FIT** jumps leads that are not ECU friendly as this may damage
> it good style*****
>

What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads?? Jump leads are just lengths
of copper wire with spring clamps on the ends are they not.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

"Simon Barr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Graham Jones wrote:
> >
> > *****If your landy OR ANY OTHER for that matter is a recent one then
> > **DO NOT FIT** jumps leads that are not ECU friendly as this may damage
> > it good style*****
> >
>
> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads?? Jump leads are just lengths
> of copper wire with spring clamps on the ends are they not.
>
> --
> simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
> Simon Barr.
> '97 110 300Tdi.

The new ones have little surge protectors built in...

rnf2 ([email protected]) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying :

>> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads??

> The new ones have little surge protectors built in...

Isn't the whole POINT of jump leads to give a surge of electrickery?

In message <[email protected]>, rnf2 <[email protected]>
writes

>> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads?? Jump leads are just lengths
>> of copper wire with spring clamps on the ends are they not.
>>
>> --
>> simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
>> Simon Barr.
>> '97 110 300Tdi.
>
>The new ones have little surge protectors built in...

That is correct.

--
Graham Jones

In message <[email protected]>, Adrian
<[email protected]> writes
>rnf2 ([email protected]) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
>were saying :
>
>>> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads??
>
>> The new ones have little surge protectors built in...
>
>Isn't the whole POINT of jump leads to give a surge of electrickery?

Yes I know but it's the spikes from the donor alternator that 'could'
damage the ECU?
--
Graham Jones

> >Oh, and don't forget to sack the towtruck driver, what bloody use is a
> >recovery firm who cant carry out a simple jump start!
>
> No defence I know but some Landcruiser's are 24v and he may have only
> had a 12v wagon or 12v jump pack. A 24v decent jump pack costs about
> 3-600ukp!! If you are only going to use it once in a blue moon then it's
> not worth it, BUT, he should have explained the reason why he could not
> get the vehicle going, there is no excuse for that at all, that's just
> bad manners and not very good for customer relations.
>
The OP said it was a 12v system.
I regularly do 24v jumpstarts from a transit, and not a jump pack in sight!
(have a couple of batteries in the back though! ;-) Cant justify paying out
the sort of money they want for a 24v jumppack, simply far too expensive
IMO.


> *****If your landy OR ANY OTHER for that matter is a recent one then
> **DO NOT FIT** jumps leads that are not ECU friendly as this may damage
> it good style*****
>
Theres a lot of talk about ECU damage from jump starting, welding ETC, but I
have yet to see a single case in all the thousands of jump starts I have
done.


> Ps. Not an advert but I do this for a living!!
>
Me too!! (F.M.C.)

In message <[email protected]>, SimonJ <[email protected]>
writes

>The OP said it was a 12v system.

Sorry, missed that bit.

>Theres a lot of talk about ECU damage from jump starting, welding ETC, but I
>have yet to see a single case in all the thousands of jump starts I have
>done.

I've only seen one (not mine) but 'I' have had a couple that have
cleared the blip memory, OK whilst it's still running but as soon as you
try and restart it (hopefully your miles away by then? <bg>) it then
needs re-programming.

>Me too!! (F.M.C.)
>
>

--
Graham Jones

In article <[email protected]>, Graham Jones wrote:
> In message <[email protected]>, Adrian
><[email protected]> writes
>>rnf2 ([email protected]) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
>>were saying :
>>
>>>> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads??
>>
>>> The new ones have little surge protectors built in...
>>
>>Isn't the whole POINT of jump leads to give a surge of electrickery?
>
> Yes I know but it's the spikes from the donor alternator that 'could'
> damage the ECU?

I've read that once you have the 'patient' car running you should turn on
headlights, heated windows, etc, to load the system to prevent spikes when
removing the leads.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

>
> I've read that once you have the 'patient' car running you should turn on
> headlights, heated windows, etc, to load the system to prevent spikes when
> removing the leads.
>
I've heard that one too, not sure if it makes any difference though.
There seems to be a lot of paranoia about spikes etc, the one I cant
understand is where you are told to disconnect the battery while welding, to
prevent the alternator being damaged. Surely the battery will act as a very
large smoothing capacitor, and help prevent damage if anything!

"Adrian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> rnf2 ([email protected]) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
> were saying :
>
> >> What exactly are 'ECU friendly' jump leads??
>
> > The new ones have little surge protectors built in...
>
> Isn't the whole POINT of jump leads to give a surge of electrickery?


You wantr a surge of amps and watts to go through to the starter... you
don't want a surge of volts to go to the ECU...

volts and Amps/Watts are a bit different...