johnnys series 3 resto project

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Dr_evil said:
sounds slightly like the midgets one, last owner said it had some slight play in chain. smokes white on idle but unlike yours no black when foot down
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by fooking about and tweaking the pump that was the best i managed to get the fooker to do but the acelleration was crap like it had a manhole cover for a flywheel :rolleyes:

thing is last time i ran it with the new valves guides tappets and evrything else it sounded sooo sweet not a single rattle clunk or cough
 
johnny curt 1 said:
by fooking about and tweaking the pump that was the best i managed to get the fooker to do but the acelleration was crap like it had a manhole cover for a flywheel :rolleyes:

thing is last time i ran it with the new valves guides tappets and evrything else it sounded sooo sweet not a single rattle clunk or cough
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Snigger :p hers is fairly drivable tbh but my gearbox is going in as hers is a bit past it

along with that overdrive :D sorry ;)
 
johnny curt 1 said:
not for want of telling anyone how to suck eggs or cause offence in any way shape or form but discussions about bores pistons compression ratings and all maner of things at the same time as whats currently on the table can cause confusion and doubt in any persons mind who is on the verge of panic

all i want is to sort the timing issue out

no wonder it took the doc near 2500 posts and god knows how many threads before he gave up and bought a running engine :bolt::behindsofa:
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you mentioned 10.5 thou clearance ,i was interested how this came about:eek:,how did you fit chain set ep? it has to be exact first before pump timings done if pump is going to fit as lr say
 
Dr_evil said:
Snigger :p hers is fairly drivable tbh but my gearbox is going in as hers is a bit past it

along with that overdrive :D sorry ;)
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no need to be sorry or rub it in as it wasnt my overdrive in the first place not promised or anythin

what i havent yet had i wont miss

ill get one eventually

got me eye on one with a pto built into it and a broome and waid 300bar air compressor pump thrown in the bargain if the sandblaster who owns the thing decides to sell the unit its bolted to :D:D:cool:
 
johnny curt 1 said:
no need to be sorry or rub it in as it wasnt my overdrive in the first place not promised or anythin

what i havent yet had i wont miss

ill get one eventually

got me eye on one with a pto built into it and a broome and waid 300bar air compressor pump thrown in the bargain if the sandblaster who owns the thing decides to sell the unit its bolted to :D:D:cool:
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Got those FWH's coming off if you want them in the future and will keep my eyes peeled incase my local place gets another series breaker in

Sounds interesting :D pics if you get it ;)
 
jamesmartin said:
you mentioned 10.5 thou clearance ,i was interested how this came about:eek:,how did you fit chain set ep? it has to be exact first before pump timings done if pump is going to fit as lr say
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as the original chain was stretched on the top side ( drive torq side of the sprockets by 1/4 link in 30 ) i simply moved the cam sprocket forward slightly ro compensate for the new chain being that bit shorter wich seemed to work and check out fine with the DTI ( brand fekkin new gauge )

42917.jpg


never mind the mag base thats with it thats a bonus so i can use it on me lathe when im not using it on the landy
 
johnny curt 1 said:
as the original chain was stretched on the top side ( drive torq side of the sprockets by 1/4 link in 30 ) i simply moved the cam sprocket forward slightly ro compensate for the new chain being that bit shorter wich seemed to work and check out fine with the DTI ( brand fekkin new gauge )

42917.jpg


never mind the mag base thats with it thats a bonus so i can use it on me lathe when im not using it on the landy
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when you say dti do you mean guessing ep when ex looks fully open or measuring before and after and marking cam gear then measuring center between and fitting chain to that
 
top down is the only one that matters,bit of a pig lining hole for grub screw with engine in the vehicle isnt it ,but you have to start with exact cam timing first
 
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jamesmartin said:
when you say dti do you mean guessing ep when ex looks fully open or measuring before and after and marking cam gear then measuring center between and fitting chain to that
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no i set the timing to TDC on flywheel with both valves shut on pot 1 and fitted n set the DTI on the exhaust valve on that pot and kept the feler gauge in that rocker to remove the slack then set the gauge plunger on the top of the nearest head bolt set the dial needle at zero after 1 full revolution on the clock

wich nwhen i rotated the engine to check the gauge went back to zero evry time to the same mark on the flywheel and on the cam sprocket

the cam sprocket i marked up by cleaning and coating with engineers blue marking ink then scribing a mark in line with a needle id made from 0.8mm welding wire wrapped round and tightened to a bolt that holds the housing water pump cover on ( so it couldnt move )
 
jamesmartin said:
top down is the only one that matters,bit of a pig lining hole for grub screw with engine in the vehicle isnt it ,but you have to start with exact cam timing first
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found a bit of a knack to ligning the hole up

i noticed as i lift the skew gear it rotates taking the bush with it and by using a feeler needle to hold the bush still while i push the skew gear back down i can eventually inch the bugger round till i can feel the hole lined up with the grub screw hole :D:cool:
 
not quite right ,you need to set dti on exhast rocker ,no feeler or anything ,when ex is fully open set dti to 0 ,turn engine till ex is nearly fully open again but say 20 thou from 0 ,mark cam sprocket ,turn engine carefully till dti reads 20 thou just after fully open mark cam sprocket ,measure between the lines mark centre thats ep ,there can be 4 thou on top of cam otherwise
 
johnny curt 1 said:
found a bit of a knack to ligning the hole up

i noticed as i lift the skew gear it rotates taking the bush with it and by using a feeler needle to hold the bush still while i push the skew gear back down i can eventually inch the bugger round till i can feel the hole lined up with the grub screw hole :D:cool:
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i use a pointy little screw drive ,them cheap ones and walk it round
 
jamesmartin said:
i use a pointy little screw drive ,them cheap ones and walk it round
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i cheated then coz i put a screwdriver in the oil filter hole under the grubscrew hole to lever the shaft up while feeling for the allignment then jammed the bush with the needle while i push the skew gear back down to the bottom

but the first time i put the bugger in i spent ages trying to walk it round with the needle and nearley gave up

thing is me damn-it tool got bounced off the driveway hard enough for it to fly across the street and land on a neighbours roof :mad:
 
well thats my little bet lost

i was hoping to have this black smoke problem sorted before they stopped the vatican chimney doing the same thing
 
Land Raver said:
Perhaps you'll have white smoke now!

Looking forward to you getting this sorted and seeing a vid of her running.
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bit of a fookup today has caused me atleast another days work on her

took the skew gear out again so i could start from scratch with the whole timing thing again and disaster struck

the drive shaft for the oil pump that slots into the bottom of the skew gear lifted out of the oil pump to the point i didnt see it there till it was too late ( just enough time to see it drop down into the sump right where i cant get at it ) :mad::mad:

now i gotta take the sump off take the oil pump out check that while im at it reassemble the bugger then refit the entire thing praying i dont miss anything out :(:rolleyes:
 
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