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Ecu is the same unless I'm mistaken, but different config/fuel map between auto and manual
Its broken.
- Thread starter LetsHopeItFits
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Same part number, different code written to it. If you can change the code then all's goodSo different then.
J
Same part number, different code written to it. If you can change the code then all's good
You think the OP has that ability?
J
AllanWorms
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ECU is identical, but the Park/reverse switch wire from the ECU has a resistor fitted inline for manual use. Different years have different software, sometimes, but not for auto/manual. The wire just tells it to behave differently for things like idle speed and high idle and fuel cut etc.
The 14CUX doesn't need anything adapted, it does it when it's running and it take a few minutes. It forgets them as soon as you disconnect the battery.
You can swap the eeprom between the ECU's if they are the later later type that doesn't have them glued in anyway.
You can also swap the ECU - takes about 5 mins and nothing will need changing in it, but you may end up with slightly different, but compatible software (as long as both cars are sepentine 3.9's)
Every 14CUX owner should have Rovergauge. The cable is cheap to make/buy and the software is free.
I'd still be doing some proper testing before going to all the effort of an engine swap. A REAL compression test, for one.
The 14CUX doesn't need anything adapted, it does it when it's running and it take a few minutes. It forgets them as soon as you disconnect the battery.
You can swap the eeprom between the ECU's if they are the later later type that doesn't have them glued in anyway.
You can also swap the ECU - takes about 5 mins and nothing will need changing in it, but you may end up with slightly different, but compatible software (as long as both cars are sepentine 3.9's)
Every 14CUX owner should have Rovergauge. The cable is cheap to make/buy and the software is free.
I'd still be doing some proper testing before going to all the effort of an engine swap. A REAL compression test, for one.
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I don't know, but even if not.. a friend of a friend etc
LetsHopeItFits
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Thanks!No. Keep all your electrics,(I wont say this but this is where you plug it all back in and find out its and ECU issue
Where do you intend to disconnect it? Exhaust manifold or downpipe? AC,PAS, O rings. New hose kit with clamps. Fluids.
A swear jar and a slab of beer/bucket of tea
The other benefit is if you get your donor there are lots of sellable bits if you can be bothered
J
Yeah I agree its not JUST the engine. And Im going to buy a compression tester thing before I pull the old engine out to double check.
Can you explain more about the ecu/adaptive settings/diagnostics?
Exhaust gaskets, hadnt thought of that, good point. AC, not sure if mine still has it tbh, if it does, can I take the compressor off the engine amd leave it plumbed in to the condensor etc, then bolt it to the new engine? (Saves me getting it regassed and leaking the gas to the Ozone, as well as potentially getting leaks)
Most of my hoses look quite new, if any are really bad, I want to see it run before buying fancy hoses.
Will be selling bits of the donor, after mine has worked for long enough for me to be confident its not going to need XYZ component.
Beer/tea/pizza/biscuits/etc provided to all who get their hands dirty. If beer-by-forum was possible, Id probably owe quite a few!
Clutch..... probably. Ive no idea how old the current one is. Only 90k miles so it could be the original one from 1996! But I also think when I bought it it had just had a new clutch recently, but I might be muddled up there.
LetsHopeItFits
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Yes exactly, real compression test, deffo agreed.
So my manual one is an N-reg 1996 3.9 V8i, the donor is a T-reg 1999 3.9 V8i auto. So other than putting a resistor into the park/reverse wire, everything should be interchangable?
LetsHopeItFits
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How would I do that?Same part number, different code written to it. If you can change the code then all's good
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You need the right diag, or someone with it. Not sure which one it is for the disco
AllanWorms
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I don't know how the Reg/Plate thing EVER became a thing. Everybody should forget about it - the VIN determines the model year and it the only relevant source of model year changes.
Anyway:
You can swap the engine and the ECU without doing anything. As long as you leave the original wiring loom in, the resistor is in your loom, as is the tune resistor.
If you determine the engine really has issues, swap it in. If you want to change the ECU later, it's plug and play. just fit it and go.
AllanWorms
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There is nothing to adapt for the ECU. I can swap mine in 5 minutes (and do often, when changing EEPROMs) and my 97 will run on the 97 ECU or the 95 ECU - just swap it, start it up.
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Isn't the idle speed different between auto and manual?
AllanWorms
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Correct.
If there is no resistor, the wire is connected to the Park/Neutral switch in the auto, and if it's in park or neutral it runs 700 RPM or in gear it runs 600RPM. It's either open, or a short, depending on lever position.
If it sees the resistor (I can't recall the correct value, 510 ohms?), it's not either open or shorted, so it runs in manual mode.
That resistor is fitted in the loom of the manual car, or the wiring for the switch is in place for the auto cars.
The ECU also has 5 fuel maps in it, and the tune resistor determines which map is used and whether O2 sensors are to be used.
All the data is in all the ECU's, though very early Discos used a slightly different format.
Rovergauge shows what the ECU is currently set to. Again: Everybody with 14CUX on their V8 should have it.
Did the same on my D reg RRC efi fitted a s/h engine swapped all parts as mine was auto... then had after a while it kept stalling then wouldn't start bought an ecu from a breakers (had to remove it myself..shows how long that was ago)..plugged it in and 2 months later drove to Portugal...
I really cant understand why he is going down replacing the engine after so called experts/garage's cant give a definitive cause of non-starting...we would have no customers and a yard full of boat anchors if we couldn't fix/diagnose faults...as for fitting a s/h engine with no knowledge good luck...I cut my teeth on Hillman Imps used for hill climb best time with mate helping to remove and swap engine...
Bet you cant guess...but to be honest the car was adapted as the rear panel was changed and we made special tools for the drive shaft rubber donuts...
Bet you cant guess...but to be honest the car was adapted as the rear panel was changed and we made special tools for the drive shaft rubber donuts...
LetsHopeItFits
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I mean, its been to one garage, they couldnt do it. Ive had a look at it, I cant do it. Its been to a specialist, they spent an hour looking into it and said its got low compression and quoted me a massive amount to repair it.
I mean if you think you could fix it for even a large 3 figure bill (parts and labour, can do cash if you want) then Id bring it to your garage (although the cost of getting it there might be quite high)
Ive put a very low bid on a donor. If I win at the current bid, Ill get my money back very quickly selling the bits I dont need.
LetsHopeItFits
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I also worked out that since its broken, its cost me about a grand in tax, insurance, parts, diagnosis and transport fees etc. Or about the same as it would have cost me to drive it for 6 months in petrol...
LetsHopeItFits
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Okay clutch kits are much cheaper than I thought so I may as well do that if it comes to it
LetsHopeItFits
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Well as some of you may have seen, I was the highest bidder and the seller has agreed to accept my bid, despite it being half the original reserve.
So, Im getting both of my land rovers back on wednesday, giving both a liberal application of lubricating penetrant for a few days, and then I need to buy an engine hoist.
So, Im getting both of my land rovers back on wednesday, giving both a liberal application of lubricating penetrant for a few days, and then I need to buy an engine hoist.
