P38A Is this valve block p38?

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Flossie

Flossie

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Sweet. It was given to me unknown condition and he was not sure if it was p38 or the next model introduced. Might rebuild it for a spare.
 
Ideally with garage compressor, but a tyre inflator pump might work provided it doesn't leak back through the pump.
Make whatever adapter you need to 6mm airline. Also put an 8mm loop on the two dryer ports.

Leak checks
Now connect the 6mm line to each port & pressurise it to about 60psi.
Get your soapy water spray ready. For each port check below, spray the corresponding valve body & check exhaust port for leaks.
Starting with the tank port, this will prove if NRV-1 and the Inlet valve are holding pressure.
Next connect each corner port in turn. This will prove the corresponding corner valve holds pressure

Electrical Checks
On the main connector from ECU to the driver pack, Connect 12V to pins 12 & 13. Ground to pins 10 & 11
Now connect 12V to pins 1 to 6 in turn to check the solenoids operate.
While the solenoids are engaged, wriggle the wires entering the driver pack. This will check for intermittent driver pack wiring.
Now connect the airline to compressor port, and apply 12V to the diaphragm valve. Make sure no air is escaping the exhaust port.

It sounds complicated, but in reality takes less time than installing the block in the car. Also this way you can check the two valves underneath the block easily.

In my case I used a small bench tank plus pressure gauges to check the block holds pressure over a few days !!



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doriz said:
Clearly I can’t. So what you’re saying is go to the trouble of fitting the manifold in the hope it won’t leak like a sieve :) vice take the trouble to fit a service part and know it won’t?
Click to expand...
Popping a valve block in and out is pretty quick, certainly quicker than tearing it down and doing the O rings
 
Gone a bit Pete tong...
I knocked it off the bench and broke a bit off :rolleyes:
Anyone got a spare what ever it is?
Thin metal punch pointing at it.
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pwood999 said:
Ideally with garage compressor, but a tyre inflator pump might work provided it doesn't leak back through the pump.
Make whatever adapter you need to 6mm airline. Also put an 8mm loop on the two dryer ports.

Leak checks
Now connect the 6mm line to each port & pressurise it to about 60psi.
Get your soapy water spray ready. For each port check below, spray the corresponding valve body & check exhaust port for leaks.
Starting with the tank port, this will prove if NRV-1 and the Inlet valve are holding pressure.
Next connect each corner port in turn. This will prove the corresponding corner valve holds pressure

Electrical Checks
On the main connector from ECU to the driver pack, Connect 12V to pins 12 & 13. Ground to pins 10 & 11
Now connect 12V to pins 1 to 6 in turn to check the solenoids operate.
While the solenoids are engaged, wriggle the wires entering the driver pack. This will check for intermittent driver pack wiring.
Now connect the airline to compressor port, and apply 12V to the diaphragm valve. Make sure no air is escaping the exhaust port.

It sounds complicated, but in reality takes less time than installing the block in the car. Also this way you can check the two valves underneath the block easily.

In my case I used a small bench tank plus pressure gauges to check the block holds pressure over a few days !!



View attachment 289790

View attachment 289791


View attachment 289792
Click to expand...
Cool :)
 
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