Is it worth sealing the chassis
- Thread starter Matt925
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Dinitrol inside and out.
Dinitrol 4941 for the underbody
Dinitrol ML 3125 for the internal box section of the chassis.
Do it at home with a small hobby compressor and you can do it cheap or go to a rust proofer and you get convenience but you won't know how good the job was.
If chassis is in good condition then do everything possible to keep it that way.
I used Tectyl 506 spray on mine. It's expensive per spray can, but I get mine from work so not an issue, lol .
As I work building super yachts, and it's deemed good enough to prevent corrosion on ocean going vessels costing £18 million then it should be okay for land based landys.
My disco 2 has been fine so far.
Just use lots everywhere.
I used Tectyl 506 spray on mine. It's expensive per spray can, but I get mine from work so not an issue, lol .
As I work building super yachts, and it's deemed good enough to prevent corrosion on ocean going vessels costing £18 million then it should be okay for land based landys.
My disco 2 has been fine so far.
Just use lots everywhere.
Thanks for the replies.
I'll keep that in mind. I'll give both a go. I use tectyl at work.
The dinitrol sounds very interesting especially to fill the cavities. I don't understand why they aren't plugged or filled.
I wonder if you can just fill it with expanding foam in the cavities after painting it or something.
I'll keep that in mind. I'll give both a go. I use tectyl at work.
The dinitrol sounds very interesting especially to fill the cavities. I don't understand why they aren't plugged or filled.
I wonder if you can just fill it with expanding foam in the cavities after painting it or something.
Expanding foam isnt waterproof so will be constantly damp causing more rot, Iirc it was british leyalnd who used bits of sponge inside some of their sills and bottoms of the b pillars causing more rot than usual?
Even if it was waterproof the water would still be trapped between the foam and the steel again causing rot.
discodrivercumbria
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ive tried buzzweld today, used waxoyl and dinitrol in the past so will have to see how this does, but main thing is prep!
Which one in your opinion is the best?
1988smithy
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Anything but waxoyl.
Linseed oil has it's fans
Linseed oil has it's fans
discodrivercumbria
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i havent a clue???? i think Hydrolic oil is the best in the chassis, but they are getting on now, i did my 1st one when it was new, years ago, and i still look on the gov site and she is still going strong!
sierrafery
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If you have surface rust treat it with tanic acid based rust converter before you use some coating, in UK you can find Vactan http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/vactan/ , i used Nigrin here but there is Fertan or others too
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Bushcrusher
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I used waxoyl, I went well overboard with the stuff, I got through 15 ltrs of it on my discovery 1 v8, I cleaned all old stuff off (bloomin nightmare ) but worth it. Treated surface rust (chassis still in mint condition ) then big tarp underneath then used brushes of varying sizes and width. Yes it took longer ( gave it 3 coats in total) then I used 5 litres to do box section and chassis used a spray gun and long tube (eBay purchase) again gave it 2 coats , made sure after doing all holes that are in chassis were clear for drainage after wading . Yes it took me about a week to do, but sailed through on mot (no rust) so I will do this again on a yearly bassis. Not every one will agree , that's to much, takes to long, easier ways to do it, but it works for me always has with other vehicles . Dinitrol is also good I've heard, but I won't fix what's not broken
ronsealdeath
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I found Aquasteel decent as a converter and good value. My chassis has been treated in Mercasol which seems identical to Dinitrol. Could be cheaper and seems good quality. Just do it yourself and dont get ripped off spending £550 on someone spraying your chassis and everything else in range with sticky stuff.... Do rust convert it first, after a wash and thorough dry of course.
Well worth trying Morris Ankor wax, ive found it sticks better and lasts longer than waxoyl, especially where wheel spray can get at it.
Other tip is to add some clean engine oil (maybe 25 percent) to the wax when spraying in the chassis as it then creeps better and stays sticky forever.
The Sealey SG18 chassis wax guns are very very good.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-S...003496&hash=item1ed7fd5083:g:E0UAAOSwX7BaXd8Q
