L322 Is it the bloody wrong battery AGAIN!

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Battery or ECU

  • Battery

    Votes: 2 25.0%

  • ECU

    Votes: 2 25.0%

  • Something Sodding Else

    Votes: 4 50.0%
  • Total voters
    8
gold rover said:
Update time:

Whoever has 'something sodding else' may just get the lollipop. If you have that AND check the stereo Goldie you're heading for two lollipops.
Can't say for sure, as she has not been back to the guys who put the new replacement head unit in. However, getting fed up with all the issues, especially when she sat for one night and then refused to start, I decided to remove the stereo fuses when parking up. Which has helped.
This is the first time in weeks that she hasn't been used every day. So waiting to see what happens when I use her tomorrow or Thursday. If she starts then stereo is draining.
Which will answer one question. However, the issue with the ignition barrel remains, and still needs an answer.
Which reminds me. Did whoever the kind person with Icarsoft lr V2.0 ever manage to find out if it allows access to security? Thanks :)
Click to expand...

For the battery drain, best method is to buy a DC Current Clamp meter. Then simulate the bonnet being closed by disconnecting the bonnet switch, and wait for the car to go to "sleep". Next use the clamp meter to find what circuits are still active & drawing current. If you're checking the radio, disable the motion sensors, so you down trigger them. You should only need to check the 12V aux & switched feeds, but check the other wires just in case.

I use this DC Clamp Meter from Amazon which works well. Many of then say they do DC current, but don't actually provide it..
 
kds said:
So just to add, Foxwell nt 530, security, body control unit, all data, unlock button pressed yes/no, lock button pressed yes/no, tailgate button pressed yes/no. As you press each button the message in the box changes to pressed, now the thing is at the moment I only have one key with a working remote and chip and thats the one that shows me pressing said buttons , my other key has a chip in it but the remote side of it does kind of work in that it shows red light when pressing buttons but is very hit and miss and will not unlock the car using the remote but it will let me unlock the car using the key in the door (only drivers door unlocks) and unlock the steering column and start the car that key shows nothing on foxwell when buttons pressed but it works car if that all makes sense. I did get the kind of working remote to work when I bought the car as you need one working remote key to be able to program a second remote (you need to do both one after the other ) as I upgraded to a flip key so @gold rover is your problem the key not being recognized and not unlocking the column or the remote central locking not working on the remote ?
Click to expand...

The main issue is it does not recognise the key, in the barrel, until I have taken several attempts at , foot on brake, move key couple of mm, key back to entry, remove foot, foot back on brake, thennnnnnnn, sometimes it will allow me to turn key past couple of mm and continue normal running. Other times the foot, couple of mm, back to start, foot off, foot on, key couple of mm, can be repeated up to 6ish times, before it will allow me to turn to 1st position.
This is why chap at specialist indy has suggested it may be the coil reader.
Not forgetting that end of last year new ignition barrel was put in, to resolve this same issue. It didn't ;)
 
gold rover said:
The main issue is it does not recognise the key, in the barrel, until I have taken several attempts at , foot on brake, move key couple of mm, key back to entry, remove foot, foot back on brake, thennnnnnnn, sometimes it will allow me to turn key past couple of mm and continue normal running. Other times the foot, couple of mm, back to start, foot off, foot on, key couple of mm, can be repeated up to 6ish times, before it will allow me to turn to 1st position.
This is why chap at specialist indy has suggested it may be the coil reader.
Not forgetting that end of last year new ignition barrel was put in, to resolve this same issue. It didn't ;)
Click to expand...
Ok with you now, I can lay my flip key on top of the ignition barrel and it will unlock the column without inserting the key, when I moved the chip over from original key with dead circuit board to flip key some times it wouldnt unlock the column found the problem was the chip has to be as near as possible to the barrel for the coil to read it. Out of interest have you had a look in the key check if chip located properly but it is looking like the coil not picking up the key could even be the coil not located correctly round the barrel.
 
from memory, chip in key motors steering lock, safety pin locks plate in retracted position, signal is then sent to solenoid attached to gear lever, this then pulls a plastic rod in a sleeve which releases a pin in the ignition barrel allowing it to turn.
when i removed auto lever and plastic rod to fit the manual gear lever i found i couldn't turn the ignition key, to overcome this i re attached the plastic rod to the switch leaving the end that's normally on the auto gear lever tucked out of the way.
it might be this plastic rod not fitting properly or the solenoid not operating it properly.
if the steering lock is releasing then there's nothing wrong with the coil or chip in key or lock
 
kds said:
Ok with you now, I can lay my flip key on top of the ignition barrel and it will unlock the column without inserting the key, when I moved the chip over from original key with dead circuit board to flip key some times it wouldnt unlock the column found the problem was the chip has to be as near as possible to the barrel for the coil to read it. Out of interest have you had a look in the key check if chip located properly but it is looking like the coil not picking up the key could even be the coil not located correctly round the barrel.
Click to expand...
The chip is fine.:)
 
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gold rover said:
The chip is fine.:)
Click to expand...
sounds like either the solenoid isn't operating the plastic rod or the rod isn't releasing the switch, if the outer sleeve isn't secure in the switch it wont release, if you detach the other end the key should turn even without putting your foot on brake peddle
 
correction on how it works,
chip in key tells steering lock plate to retract when safety pin is engaged signal goes to solenoid to retract a pin in the gear selector locking bar, turning key pushes inner rod to raise locking bar releasing safety lock on gear selector.
if safety bar isn't free to move key cant turn, if outer sleeve isn't fitted key cant turn.
if solenoid doesn't operate safety bar isn't free ( faulty coil or disconnected brings up fault on dash)
if control cant sense steering unlocked it wont release locking bar.
so you could have faulty steering lock, release solenoid, stuck locking bar or faulty plastic push rod
 
Just checking see if any progress on this, not heard of foot on brake pedal before. If I leave key in ignition when wife is in the car then have to turn key 15 degrees on then off to wake system up then key turns as it should I know @Saint.V8 has a youtube video of how you can get key to turn without a chip in it but I have never managed to get it to work.
 
Another update: My Golden Girl still has the ignition issue. The battery drain is better but due to numerous short trips she is not happy. I have bought a trickle charger. Which leads me to a question.
I didn't notice until I got home it is for up to 100Ah my battery is a 110. Is there any point using it? Or take it back and buy a 110 online?
All help appreciated.
 
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