Intermittent SRS warning light issue?

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toby_2009

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54
Hi all,

For a couple of weeks now I have had an intermittent problem with the SRS warning light on my ’03 Disco TD5. The light comes on at ignition stage 2 and then clears but then comes on after 30mins to an hour of driving.

I have checked the connectors under the seats.

The light coming on doesn’t appear to be associated with going over bumps for anything – it seems to be more related to how long it has been running or possibly the heat produced by the engine etc? I say this because once the light has come on, if I pull over, cut the engine and start it again then the light will come on straight away but if it has cooled then the light doesn’t come on again.

Any thoughts? I’d really rather avoid an expensive bill!

Thanks,

Toby
 
you should plug in a tester to see from which circuit it's coming to reduce the search area cos there aere two air bags, two pretensioners the rotary coupler and the SRS ECU involved...bad contacts are temperature sensitive
 
Last edited:
The rotary coupler and connection to it are prone to giving the SRS warning, open the under steering wheel compartment and have a fiddle with the yellow shrouded wire where it heads up into the steering wheel shroud.... ideally unplug and replug it into the rotary coupler (might need to remove the shroud to get at it).

Probably best not to have you head in front of the steering wheel whilst doing this :D
 
get your self a second hand rotary coupler from skan 4x4 on line cost a tenner easy job too do I had similer problem but I had too get a plug in too reset it sometimes you don't have too have a plug in mine did ? but that's landys for you
 
Thanks guys. I should also mention that I did recently unplug the drivers airbag whilst installing cruise control - could this have anything to do with it?
 
Hi have same problem but when I plug my Nanocom in it gives me No Faults ?????

Looking forward for some wisdom on this problem.

Hog
 
there is a plug between the SRS ECU and the instrument pack which is not covered by diagnostics, C0047/0023 attached, the ECU must send voltage on it to extinguish the warning after the self check, make sure it's good contact in it at pin 8(yellow/red wire) eventually measure voltage there after the ignition is on and all the other warnings went out...there must be above 8V(usually 12) on that wire then...if no or lower voltage double check the fault code reading with hawkeye or other if you can and if still no fault code i'm affraid the SRS ECU is gone(or bad contact in it's plug), if there is above 8V there is bad contact at the LH side plug on top of instrument pack pin 7 also yellow/red wire...and if you get voltage there too the problem is within the pack
 

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Hi thanks will look later :)

sierrafery said:
there is a plug between the SRS ECU and the instrument pack which is not covered by diagnostics, C0047/0023 attached, the ECU must send voltage on it to extinguish the warning after the self check, make sure it's good contact in it at pin 8(yellow/red wire) eventually measure voltage there after the ignition is on and all the other warnings went out...there must be above 8V(usually 12) on that wire then...if no or lower voltage double check the fault code reading with hawkeye or other if you can and if still no fault code i'm affraid the SRS ECU is gone(or bad contact in it's plug), if there is above 8V there is bad contact at the LH side plug on top of instrument pack pin 7 also yellow/red wire...and if you get voltage there too the problem is within the pack
Click to expand...
 
toby_2009 said:
Hi all,

For a couple of weeks now I have had an intermittent problem with the SRS warning light on my ’03 Disco TD5. The light comes on at ignition stage 2 and then clears but then comes on after 30mins to an hour of driving.

I have checked the connectors under the seats.

The light coming on doesn’t appear to be associated with going over bumps for anything – it seems to be more related to how long it has been running or possibly the heat produced by the engine etc? I say this because once the light has come on, if I pull over, cut the engine and start it again then the light will come on straight away but if it has cooled then the light doesn’t come on again.

Any thoughts? I’d really rather avoid an expensive bill!

Thanks,

Toby
Click to expand...


Hi Toby, I had a very similar problem on my TD5 to yours and it was cured by cleaning the inter-connecting plugs under the passenger seat with switch cleaner.

The problem has not come back, up to now at least :eek::eek::bowl::rolleyes:

Recognition should go to Sierrafery for his guidance and advice - he was right !!!!!!!


Dave
 
I'm sure Dave that on your's there was a fault code logged cos if the problem is with those plugs it's before the ECU and it must sense the open circuit or bigger resistance as long as it's not fubar'd... i've seen this kind of SRS warning without fault code and it was a problem on the circuit between the ECU and instrument pack cos for the warning to go out after the self check it must get voltage above 7.7V on the earth path from the ECU on that yellow/red wire, and being after the ECU that circuit is not covered by the SRS diagnostic protocol if you see what i mean... that's why in this particular case when there's no fault code my advice was a bit strange not pointing to the common things like those plugs under the seat;) ... though it's better to double check with other 100% reliable tester too to be on the safe side
 
sierrafery said:
I'm sure Dave that on your's there was a fault code logged cos if the problem is with those plugs it's before the ECU and it must sense the open circuit or bigger resistance as long as it's not fubar'd... i've seen this kind of SRS warning without fault code and it was a problem on the circuit between the ECU and instrument pack cos for the warning to go out after the self check it must get voltage above 7.7V on the earth path from the ECU on that yellow/red wire, and being after the ECU that circuit is not covered by the SRS diagnostic protocol if you see what i mean... that's why in this particular case when there's no fault code my advice was a bit strange not pointing to the common things like those plugs under the seat;) ... though it's better to double check with other 100% reliable tester too to be on the safe side
Click to expand...

Hey Fery, I was trying to pay you a complement - chill man.

I had a problem, I followed your advice and it worked; so all I was trying to do was to share my experience with others - it MIGHT JUST help them.
 
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