Interior LED light wiring (2 switches)

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huffhuff

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Hi all,

I think I have made a booboo and bought the wrong switches.

Essentially, I have some LED lighting for the rear of the 90. I want a switch up front, and one in the back.

I have bought 2 switches. I know I needed 3 pin for the double-pole but saw the LED backlit switches and went 'oooh'. Cursory glance to make sure they had 3 pins...there is my problem. The third pin on these is for the LED.

Can I do some jiggery-pokery and get it to work? I've had a play but it's the end of day and my head is fuzzy!

Any help appreciated.

Ta
 
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Hi all,

I think I have made a booboo and bought the wrong switches.

Essentially, I have some LED lighting for the rear of the 90. I want a switch up front, and one in the back.

I have bought 2 switches. I know I needed 3 pin for the double-pole but saw the LED backlit switches and went 'oooh'. Cursory glance to make sure they had 3 pins...there is my problem. The third pin on these is for the LED.

Can I do some jiggery-pokery and get it to work? I've had a play but it's the end of day and my head is fuzzy!

Any help appreciated.

Ta

No.....in short. If you want two switches, they both need to be double pole
 
If you want it to operate like a landing / stair light (turn on/off with either switch) then you do need change over switches. If you are happy to turn the lights on/off with the same switch you can get away with two pole switches, just have both paralleled up but one in the front and one in the back.
 
That's what I figured. Thanks guys. I'll keep these anyway and get some double pole :)

You can never have too many switches...shame space is a premium

Cheers
 
I'm thinking of adding a rear switch to mine- probably using the redundant wires in the towbar electrics. The plan is to have a simple on/off switch as its main use will be when putting stuff in/out of the back when its dark. The interior light isn't currently connected to the door switches so currently I have to remember to switch it on at the front.

The two switches will just be in parallel, so either one switched on will turn the light on. If you think about it, this is perfectly fine as you'll either be at the front or the back- not like a staircase light when you typically turn it on with one switch and off with the other.
 
I'm going to add a second fuse box in the back. It will have the work light, rear interior LEDs, extra accessory socket etc.. I'm not bothered by it running from ignition, so was going to bring the positive straight from the battery. Can I do the same for the negative? From the searches I've done people don't seem to mention the negative, is going to a common ground point near the 'accessory' the preferable option?

Am I ok to daisy-chain the + feeds on the fusebox? Diagram below. x2 30A cables coming off the battery + terminal. Each cable to supply 3 feeds with a max of 30a across them (so I don't have to run 6 separate feeds direct from battery)

Fusebox.JPG
 
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you can wire it like a house hold circuit

you need a terminal block you need a constant neutral and constant live and a switched live

conect eart to earth

then connect the light to the switched live

the switch bridges the gap between the constant live an switch live

like the picture below except you will only have one feed in and would want to switches

ceiling_rose_newcolours.png
 
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and for extra safety you could do the switching part with a relay for added piece of mind your two switches would independently feed the relay
 
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