Disco 3 (LR3) Insurance renewal plus mot

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Bugger, went out in the D3 yesterday and noticed there’s air in the brakes , dam it as I’ll have to mess around with it now

just ordered a new brake pressure kit as fed up messing with the vacuum ones , fingers crossed there’s enough room to get onto the bleeders without taking the wheels off

won’t bother calling the garage that done the brakes for me as I’ll try and do them myself to ensure there spot on , typical particularly seeing the weather is now getting colder

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gstuart said:
Bugger, went out in the D3 yesterday and noticed there’s air in the brakes , dam it as I’ll have to mess around with it now

just ordered a new brake pressure kit as fed up messing with the vacuum ones , fingers crossed there’s enough room to get onto the bleeders without taking the wheels off

won’t bother calling the garage that done the brakes for me as I’ll try and do them myself to ensure there spot on , typical particularly seeing the weather is now getting colder

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Best of luck!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Best of luck!
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many thks , alas local garages want £120-150 plus vat to bleed them for me ,, nope I’m not paying that , lol

am wondering as I’ve got new tin of the class 6 brake fluid and pressure brake kit to replace all the fluid ,think it was around 18 x months since I last had it done

wonder if my neighbour might take the wheels off for me as want to be 101% sure everything it spot on, can’t really use it particularly if I need to stamp on the brakes on in an emergency , don’t like taking any risks like this

also thk god I’ve got the gap iid in case the abs module needs bleeding out as can’t be done without one

had a better look at the kit and see it comes with a decent master cyl cap

thks again
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gstuart said:
many thks , alas local garages want £120-150 plus vat to bleed them for me ,, nope I’m not paying that , lol

am wondering as I’ve got new tin of the class 6 brake fluid and pressure brake kit to replace all the fluid ,think it was around 18 x months since I last had it done

wonder if my neighbour might take the wheels off for me as want to be 101% sure everything it spot on, can’t really use it particularly if I need to stamp on the brakes on in an emergency , don’t like taking any risks like this

also thk god I’ve got the gap iid in case the abs module needs bleeding out as can’t be done without one

had a better look at the kit and see it comes with a decent master cyl cap

thks again
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I have an Eezibleed system and will not use it any more. It never worked properly and once led to the cap blowing off and brake fluid going all over the engine bay. So I do it the old fashioned way with a rubber pipe with a nail in the end and a slit cut just above it. costs Pnuts from Motoabitz and never fails!
But maybe with a fancy system like on the D3 it souldn't work. Don't really see why though.
Find it hard to imagine you have air in the system if it was only done 18 months back. Was it not properly done then?
Best of luck mate!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I have an Eezibleed system and will not use it any more. It never worked properly and once led to the cap blowing off and brake fluid going all over the engine bay. So I do it the old fashioned way with a rubber pipe with a nail in the end and a slit cut just above it. costs Pnuts from Motoabitz and never fails!
But maybe with a fancy system like on the D3 it souldn't work. Don't really see why though.
Find it hard to imagine you have air in the system if it was only done 18 months back. Was it not properly done then?
Best of luck mate!
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sorry mate for the confusion, had the brake fluid replaced 18 x months ago and brake pedal was fine

only had air issues since having the calipers replaced last week

that brings back memories with the tube and nail as my pops taught me that , had to get a new one, has a check valve but shouldnt get any air back seeing the systems will be pressurised

will see if my neighbour is around to see if he will be so kind to take the wheels off for me + the 3 x ton trolley jack as its very heavy for me, if he can as he takes one wheel off I can follow him round the disco so to speak , therefore hopefully not taking to long to also inspect the brakes ,

plus this pressure bleed kit should make life a lot easier

thks again



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Plus as I’ve got one of these tablet Autel scanners going to do an automatic ABS brake bleed first , at least then I know all the air will be gone from the ABS module

 
No need to remove wheels, susp in off road height, axles stand or two and get in there.

The pressure bleeders are excellent, I used mine to back bleed a scania clutch the other day, worked well, approx 8 feet large bore rubber hydraulic style pipe run.
 
lynall said:
No need to remove wheels, susp in off road height, axles stand or two and get in there.

The pressure bleeders are excellent, I used mine to back bleed a scania clutch the other day, worked well, approx 8 feet large bore rubber hydraulic style pipe run.
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that would be brilliant mate as to be honest I looked earlier and couldn’t see them, but like a doughnut i took some pics of the calipers, stupid as I should have looked

funny enough got a car creeper last year and is still in the box , do also have 4 plastic ramps snd Wondering if that may give me even more room as could as u say raise the suspension but put it onto the ramps as well,

may I ask is it best to first bleed the ABS module plse, or do it after , great to get feedback of these pressure bleeders , would 1 bar be suffice plse

really gutted that I’ve got to mess around only after a week of getting them done

many thks once again
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I never bled the abs or used any diag tool, just bleed it old school way with ign off and see how you get on, think you only need diag tool if you have removed the abs module.

Crawlers rob valuable clearance space, or maybe I am just a fat bar steward!

Yes 1 bar is just fine, well it was on my d3/90/s2/transit/audi and the scania.
 
lynall said:
I never bled the abs or used any diag tool, just bleed it old school way with ign off and see how you get on, think you only need diag tool if you have removed the abs module.

Crawlers rob valuable clearance space, or maybe I am just a fat bar steward!

Yes 1 bar is just fine, well it was on my d3/90/s2/transit/audi and the scania.
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many thks, at least I can try first in off road height then the ramps to see what works the best

alas not sure if air entered the abs module , suppose it can’t hurt

will also dig out my brake spanner’s , ma g thks ref the pressure , at least this time I can just crack open the bleed nipple one at a time

sequence I think is NSR left, off side rear , NSF and then offside front

plus been looking to see how fluid the brake system holds in order forme to change all the fluids at the same rime

many thks as always
 
Shoot me down if I am way off target, but do you think that maybe the air is in the caliper cylinders, or elsewhere in the caliper?
I'd be tempted to open the bleed nipple on each one then push the piston back in the caliper to see if air came out as the piston went back in. I'd also do it with the caliper off its mount fixed in such a position that the nipple is totally at the top of the caliper so the air can rise to it easily. I'd also give the caliper a good old tapping and turning around, especially in the double piston ones, to help the air up to the nipple before doing any opening of it etc.
Seeing as everthing was OK before you fitted them.

I am also wondering why you can't give it back to whoever fitted the new calipers and get them to do the job properly.
But that could be for any number of reasons.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Shoot me down if I am way off target, but do you think that maybe the air is in the caliper cylinders, or elsewhere in the caliper?
I'd be tempted to open the bleed nipple on each one then push the piston back in the caliper to see if air came out as the piston went back in. I'd also do it with the caliper off its mount fixed in such a position that the nipple is totally at the top of the caliper so the air can rise to it easily. I'd also give the caliper a good old tapping and turning around, especially in the double piston ones, to help the air up to the nipple before doing any opening of it etc.
Seeing as everthing was OK before you fitted them.

I am also wondering why you can't give it back to whoever fitted the new calipers and get them to do the job properly.
But that could be for any number of reasons.
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don’t be daft mate as help is always extremly appreciated

from previous experience replacing calipers or hoses normally found air in these parts

alas don’t know how far back the garage clamped the hoses , if at all ??

at least now having the pressure kit I’ll be able to indeed open the bleed nipples and watching the fluid going into a clear container to see much air comes out, another reason I put a small amount of fluid in the container to identify the bubbles easier, will put around 1 bar into the system

currently have 1 x litre of brake fluid so at least that should give me a good amount fluid replacement , plus dependant on the colour

thks again
 
gstuart said:
many thks, at least I can try first in off road height then the ramps to see what works the best

alas not sure if air entered the abs module , suppose it can’t hurt

will also dig out my brake spanner’s , ma g thks ref the pressure , at least this time I can just crack open the bleed nipple one at a time

sequence I think is NSR left, off side rear , NSF and then offside front

plus been looking to see how fluid the brake system holds in order forme to change all the fluids at the same rime

many thks as always
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I doubt very much if you use more than half a litre 1 L maximum
 
lynall said:
I doubt very much if you use more than half a litre 1 L maximum
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bless u as wondered if I had enough

alas tried to get underneath this morning with no success, just can’t seem to get comfortable and reach the bleeding points at the same time ,

think I may kindly ask if my neighbour will take the wheels off for me , i can follow him round the vehicle so to speak as I bleed each one, seeing it should only be a 15 x minute job

don’t mind admitting am gutted and very disappointed I’m unable to do things like I Useto , try my best to not let it rule my life but certainly my back likes to put a spoke in the wheel every time it gets chance

I need one of those scissor lifts that sit flat on ur drive, lol
 
gstuart said:
bless u as wondered if I had enough

alas tried to get underneath this morning with no success, just can’t seem to get comfortable and reach the bleeding points at the same time ,

think I may kindly ask if my neighbour will take the wheels off for me , i can follow him round the vehicle so to speak as I bleed each one, seeing it should only be a 15 x minute job

don’t mind admitting am gutted and very disappointed I’m unable to do things like I Useto , try my best to not let it rule my life but certainly my back likes to put a spoke in the wheel every time it gets chance

I need one of those scissor lifts that sit flat on ur drive, lol
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That will take longer than 15 minutes, I bet its an hour start to finish if removing the wheels.
 
lynall said:
That will take longer than 15 minutes, I bet it’s an hour start to finish if removing the wheels.
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agreed , was talking hypothetically in just bleeding the brakes omitting the time of the wheels

plus Looking around at brake fluid it seems the ATE is the only one I can find that’s class 6 , did order another 1 x litre tin so have some as a reserve in case the fluid is very dark , at least then I know I’ve got plenty for a decent flush of the entire braking system

neighbour is currently very busy with work and home life so might be a good few weeks , certainly not going to entertain sending it back or pay £120+ from garage quotes, indeed know like all of us like things done just so, I was the same at work ensuring things were done to customers satisfaction and always went that extra mile by asking myself what IF

In the mean time am wondering about using some plastic ramps I’ve got , if I can get enough height to allow me more room so I’m not twisting so to speak, have 4 x of them but would need someone to see me up onto them and when to stop

or maybe I could set a plant pot up with a stick in it as a guide in not going too far

so annoyed over this as there was me thinking , great the brakes are all done and dusted and now can’t use it , 😭

sorry I’m waffling again
 
gstuart said:
agreed , was talking hypothetically in just bleeding the brakes omitting the time of the wheels

plus Looking around at brake fluid it seems the ATE is the only one I can find that’s class 6 , did order another 1 x litre tin so have some as a reserve in case the fluid is very dark , at least then I know I’ve got plenty for a decent flush of the entire braking system

neighbour is currently very busy with work and home life so might be a good few weeks , certainly not going to entertain sending it back or pay £120+ from garage quotes, indeed know like all of us like things done just so, I was the same at work ensuring things were done to customers satisfaction and always went that extra mile by asking myself what IF

In the mean time am wondering about using some plastic ramps I’ve got , if I can get enough height to allow me more room so I’m not twisting so to speak, have 4 x of them but would need someone to see me up onto them and when to stop

or maybe I could set a plant pot up with a stick in it as a guide in not going too far

so annoyed over this as there was me thinking , great the brakes are all done and dusted and now can’t use it , 😭

sorry I’m waffling again
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Is the sponginess really that bad?
I used to drive my first Mini with ridiculously bad brakes, same reason as many will remember, down to the stupid way the rear brake lines were connected to the wheel cylinders on the production line?
I simply used to pump them all the time!
Is there absolutely no way you can reach around the wheel to do them without taking the wheel off?
I do know you have a disability, or maybe more than one, so I sympathise hugely. Wish I lived nearby and could come and help you.:(
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Is the sponginess really that bad?
I used to drive my first Mini with ridiculously bad brakes, same reason as many will remember, down to the stupid way the rear brake lines were connected to the wheel cylinders on the production line?
I simply used to pump them all the time!
Is there absolutely no way you can reach around the wheel to do them without taking the wheel off?
I do know you have a disability, or maybe more than one, so I sympathise hugely. Wish I lived nearby and could come and help you.:(
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bless u and very kind of u my friend

indeed the pedal drops at least half way down after starting the engine and have to pump them up so taken it off the road as very dangerous

am going to attempt to see if using ramps may help , along with putting it in off road height , will need a step ladder to get out the disco , lol , think I’ll also put some kind of stick in front so don’t drive too far on the ramps

dont know if it will better to use all 4 x ramps , know if I put it into low range will walk up them with no issue and allow me a bit more control being in such low gearing

thks again
 
gstuart said:
bless u and very kind of u my friend

indeed the pedal drops at least half way down after starting the engine and have to pump them up so taken it off the road as very dangerous

am going to attempt to see if using ramps may help , along with putting it in off road height , will need a step ladder to get out the disco , lol , think I’ll also put some kind of stick in front so don’t drive too far on the ramps

dont know if it will better to use all 4 x ramps , know if I put it into low range will walk up them with no issue and allow me a bit more control being in such low gearing

thks again
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I hate using ramps, once had a car kind of fall off one and it got jammed underneath the engine bay. So I'd only use two at a time.
But just a personal thing.
 
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