If you had the money...

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Mine hasn't broke'd so far this year. :)
I've had my TD4 auto for just over 12 months now. I've spent more money and time on it in that time, than I did on my V6 for 2 years of ownership. So I'd say that the TD4 isn't as reliable as the V6, at least not so far.
And I still have a water loss and oil in coolant issue to sort. :mad: Bloody BMW rubbish under the bonnet. Give me proper British engineering, any day.
 
1. freshen up the paint work
2. Have the chequer plate powder coated Black
3. Side steps
4. Get rid of PTO winch replace with electric one
5. New front bumper
6. Replace rear steps
7. Have seats recovered or replaced
8. Awning and/or roof tent or just get a roof rack and a awning
 
1. freshen up the paint work
2. Have the chequer plate powder coated Black
3. Side steps
4. Get rid of PTO winch replace with electric one
5. New front bumper
6. Replace rear steps
7. Have seats recovered or replaced
8. Awning and/or roof tent or just get a roof rack and a awning
Methinks John didn't read the first post in this thread. Our Freelanders don't need chequer plate cause us folks don't tend to climb on top of them.
PTO winch????
Rear steps????
Roof tent????
 
Methinks John didn't read the first post in this thread. Our Freelanders don't need chequer plate cause us folks don't tend to climb on top of them.
PTO winch????
Rear steps????
Roof tent????

All unnecessary on a Freelander Ali!! Xx
 
I've had my TD4 auto for just over 12 months now. I've spent more money and time on it in that time, than I did on my V6 for 2 years of ownership. So I'd say that the TD4 isn't as reliable as the V6, at least not so far.
And I still have a water loss and oil in coolant issue to sort. :mad: Bloody BMW rubbish under the bonnet. Give me proper British engineering, any day.
To be honest LR were always knocked over the years for reliability. LR stepped up it's game over the years to try to solve this. I don't think they're any worser than any other manufacturer, on a comparison of similar type of vehicle. I see a wide verity of vehicles at work as company cars and privately owned. The all seem to have a story of problems and go wrong at some point. I remember when I was little seeing cars 3 or 4 year old cars with rust along the bottom of doors and around the aerial. Yer dun't see that as much now. Things have improved considerably over the years. Something I think most take for granted or perhaps dun't realise.
 
To be honest LR were always knocked over the years for reliability. LR stepped up it's game over the years to try to solve this. I don't think they're any worser than any other manufacturer, on a comparison of similar type of vehicle. I see a wide verity of vehicles at work as company cars and privately owned. The all seem to have a story of problems and go wrong at some point. I remember when I was little seeing cars 3 or 4 year old cars with rust along the bottom of doors and around the aerial. Yer dun't see that as much now. Things have improved considerably over the years. Something I think most take for granted or perhaps dun't realise.

You are quite right Hippo. In years gone by a car rusted away before it was worn out mechanically. I remember that a car doing 100,000 miles was a magical number to achieve. Virtually all cars exceed 100K now. Now I know of many FLs and D3s that are well past 100K miles. I know at least one D3 that has over 500,000 on the clock and rising!!. It did need a replacement engine at 450,000 miles though.
There's a few FL1s over 200,000 miles now.
There's a good threat topic.
"What mileage on your FL1"
 
lol, the days of "rust buckets" on the road are distant memories. Mind you rust issues have "changed" a bit - these days "non-visible" rust seems more prevalent. Taking a prime example of a rust suffering car, the D1, they are likely to be terminated by rust but you can't see it because its in the chassis or places like where the B pillar meets the roof.

It does also seem impossible that cars used to be considered end-of-life at 100K miles, that is often cranked up in just a few years these days and even if its taken a while, the cars are still "young". They may need some maintenance, like belts, viscous couplings or little O rings, but they're good-as :)

I agree that "all that is good, is not necessarily non-British". My particular pet hate is people selling their Freelanders with the primary selling point being that it has a BMW engine! Yeh, the engines are OK, but I strongly feel they are no better than my British oil burner - just different characteristics. If (Land) Rover hadn't got itself into such a pickle and been passed onto BMW ownership, I'm sure the G Series or 'real' TD4 sister to the TD5 would have been better engines. The current crop of Ingenium engines are superb.

I really do not know what to make of the KV6 though. I know Nodge and Hippo swear by them, and I respect their views, but I keep coming back to this post....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/heeeeelp-overheating.302603/#post-3781092

It seems obvious from that list that KV6's die and die young - often/usually not even making the good old 100K miles. Maybe there's something in the KV6 cooling system that's prone to failure but is an easy fix - bit like the humble little O ring in a TD4 fuel pump that's an easy fix, but I bet has seen the very premature death of a lot of TD4 Freelanders.
 
lol, the days of "rust buckets" on the road are distant memories. Mind you rust issues have "changed" a bit - these days "non-visible" rust seems more prevalent. Taking a prime example of a rust suffering car, the D1, they are likely to be terminated by rust but you can't see it because its in the chassis or places like where the B pillar meets the roof.

It does also seem impossible that cars used to be considered end-of-life at 100K miles, that is often cranked up in just a few years these days and even if its taken a while, the cars are still "young". They may need some maintenance, like belts, viscous couplings or little O rings, but they're good-as :)

I agree that "all that is good, is not necessarily non-British". My particular pet hate is people selling their Freelanders with the primary selling point being that it has a BMW engine! Yeh, the engines are OK, but I strongly feel they are no better than my British oil burner - just different characteristics. If (Land) Rover hadn't got itself into such a pickle and been passed onto BMW ownership, I'm sure the G Series or 'real' TD4 sister to the TD5 would have been better engines. The current crop of Ingenium engines are superb.

I really do not know what to make of the KV6 though. I know Nodge and Hippo swear by them, and I respect their views, but I keep coming back to this post....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/heeeeelp-overheating.302603/#post-3781092
It seems obvious from that list that KV6's die and die young - often/usually not even making the good old 100K miles. Maybe there's something in the KV6 cooling system that's prone to failure but is an easy fix - bit like the humble little O ring in a TD4 fuel pump that's an easy fix, but I bet has seen the very premature death of a lot of TD4 Freelanders.

I share your pet hate in TD4 sales adds GG. The worst thing about the TD4 Freelander is the TD4 engine. It's powerful enough and reasonably smooth for an oil burner. However it's awash with week components that fail at the most inconvenient times. An LR developed 4 cylinder version of the TD5 might have been the answer to the BMW thing stuffed into the Freelander.

The V6 is an interesting topic.
Having worked on and repaired many of them over the last 20 years. The later unit as fitted into the R75, MGZS 180 and Freelander is a good engine. It does suffer from HG failure. However unlike it's 1.8 baby brother, HG failure isn't systematic. In 99% of all KV6 HG failures I've worked on. The primary cause wasn't the HG. Coolant loss was the problem. The HG failed as a secondary consequence of the lack of coolant.
Unfortunately we have BMW to thank for that. When BMW took over Rover. They changed a lot of the KV6 ancillary components. They binned the beautifully engineered alloy, twin throttle body, VIS inlet manifold. Replacing it with a horrible plastic thing made in Germany. This has plastic flap valves and plastic control links. These fail regularly and cost ~ £500 to replace.
The other "gift" from BMW was a plastic thermostat assembly. This was similar in design to the original KV6s alloy thermostat assembly. The plastic unit moves about while the engine rocks forward and backwards on its mountings, pulled by the coolant hoses. This allows the O rings to shift, so coolant can creep past. Over time the alloy block corrodes, reducing the O ring sealing abilities. Coolant then escapes unseen into the V, causing an air pocket around the HG fire ring. The HG being a thin ring seal fails almost instantly. This is the primary reason the HGs fail on the KV6.
 
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Although Freelanders are generally reliable vehicles, they do have their problems. Let's say you've bought a second-hand FL Td4 for your 'significant other', and want to make sure it gets them around and doesn't leave them stranded. Money aside, what would you change on it to ensure reliability?

My list (other than a good service and all oils etc):

1. Four new tyres.
2. Recon VCU
3. OEM fuel pump and high pressure regulator O-ring
4. Battery
5. Starter solenoid kit
6. Silicone boost hoses
7. Clutch and slave

All the above are known weak points of second-hand (Td4) FLs and all could stop the car from getting from A to B (or at least cause a MIL and resulting panicky call from wife). Except the last one, wouldn't it be sensible to change them routinely on buying the car? The parts would most likely outlast the car and give you peace of mind, which is priceless.

Don't let your wife drive it!
 
Hmm, ££ no object and do stuff to keep a FL 1.8 k series reliable? Well, this is what I've done - seems to be working too!

  • clear casting flash from coolant apertures in the head,
  • do likewise to inlet manifold & exhaust manifold
  • fit correct HG
  • fit a strengthened bottom oil rail & mod’ oil pump
  • new coolant pump, cam belt, tensioner...
  • new radiator, coolant bottle & cap
  • replace all coolant & heater pipes
  • fit a low coolant warning system
  • remote thermostat
  • good quality OAT coolant
  • oil cooler thermostat and an engine oil cooler
  • replace VCU & Bearings
  • matching set of tyres including spare
  • decat
  • replace plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor [for early ones] good quality plugs too
  • replace PAS & Alt/AC belts
  • cold air feed and maybe a high performance a' filter
  • replacement fuel pump / filter
  • replace brake wheel cylinders and shoes
  • replace brake rotors, new pads and rekit callipers
  • replace flexible brake hoses & fluid
  • replace springs and may be struts too
  • replace IRD, G’box and diff oils
  • replace diff mounts, anti sway bar bushes…
  • repair sunroof OR carefully seal it up and disable
  • Possibly replace induction system with one from a MG / Rover with the VVC manifold…
extras:
Oil pressure and temp gauges
tint rear glass
better quality heal lamp bulbs
rear light mod’s
reverse camera
fit DRL
Fit HD camera
 
Hmm, ££ no object and do stuff to keep a FL 1.8 k series reliable? Well, this is what I've done - seems to be working too!

  • clear casting flash from coolant apertures in the head,
  • do likewise to inlet manifold & exhaust manifold
  • fit correct HG
  • fit a strengthened bottom oil rail & mod’ oil pump
  • new coolant pump, cam belt, tensioner...
  • new radiator, coolant bottle & cap
  • replace all coolant & heater pipes
  • fit a low coolant warning system
  • remote thermostat
  • good quality OAT coolant
  • oil cooler thermostat and an engine oil cooler
  • replace VCU & Bearings
  • matching set of tyres including spare
  • decat
  • replace plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor [for early ones] good quality plugs too
  • replace PAS & Alt/AC belts
  • cold air feed and maybe a high performance a' filter
  • replacement fuel pump / filter
  • replace brake wheel cylinders and shoes
  • replace brake rotors, new pads and rekit callipers
  • replace flexible brake hoses & fluid
  • replace springs and may be struts too
  • replace IRD, G’box and diff oils
  • replace diff mounts, anti sway bar bushes…
  • repair sunroof OR carefully seal it up and disable
  • Possibly replace induction system with one from a MG / Rover with the VVC manifold…
extras:
Oil pressure and temp gauges
tint rear glass
better quality heal lamp bulbs
rear light mod’s
reverse camera
fit DRL
Fit HD camera
Sounds more like routine maintenance and common sense to me than a wish list. :rolleyes:
Gonna have to try harder than that to impress the wimmins. :p
 
Relay? Wash your mouth out, my Freelanders have never needed the services of Relay.










Bugger2_2.jpg


Well apart from then. OK and the time the IRD went. Other that those times though, never.

I suppose there was the time that the red one needed some "movement assist", but that doesn't count, cos I bought it like that.

KayArrives_3.jpg
 
Hmm, ££ no object and do stuff to keep a FL 1.8 k series reliable? Well, this is what I've done - seems to be working too!

  • clear casting flash from coolant apertures in the head,
  • do likewise to inlet manifold & exhaust manifold
  • fit correct HG
  • fit a strengthened bottom oil rail & mod’ oil pump
  • new coolant pump, cam belt, tensioner...
  • new radiator, coolant bottle & cap
  • replace all coolant & heater pipes
  • fit a low coolant warning system
  • remote thermostat
  • good quality OAT coolant
  • oil cooler thermostat and an engine oil cooler
  • replace VCU & Bearings
  • matching set of tyres including spare
  • decat
  • replace plug leads, dizzy cap and rotor [for early ones] good quality plugs too
  • replace PAS & Alt/AC belts
  • cold air feed and maybe a high performance a' filter
  • replacement fuel pump / filter
  • replace brake wheel cylinders and shoes
  • replace brake rotors, new pads and rekit callipers
  • replace flexible brake hoses & fluid
  • replace springs and may be struts too
  • replace IRD, G’box and diff oils
  • replace diff mounts, anti sway bar bushes…
  • repair sunroof OR carefully seal it up and disable
  • Possibly replace induction system with one from a MG / Rover with the VVC manifold…
extras:
Oil pressure and temp gauges
tint rear glass
better quality heal lamp bulbs
rear light mod’s
reverse camera
fit DRL
Fit HD camera
Was that in the first week?

Cos I know you've added a TPMS since then.

Oh and the "upgraded jacking mechanism" - of which I'm still waiting to see the video :)
 
Ha! yeah all is working well. However, I was checking the brake pad wear this morning and found the FL pads were nearly worn out! RH side is about 1/3 worn. Not sure what[s going on there. Ordering bits today from Rimmers :(
TPMS = good idea pressures seem to hold well. Jacking mechanism still in progress. I had to make my own high temp adhesive to stick the insulation in the furnace's lid. A mix of sodium hydroxide [NaOH @100%], distilled water and silica gel! Getting the right NaOH was illuminating! The supplier was quite cagey about giving me details of what % NaOH was in their packet. Apparently it's used as a heat source in drug making = P kitchens! Funny what you learn. o_O
 
Ha! yeah all is working well. However, I was checking the brake pad wear this morning and found the FL pads were nearly worn out! RH side is about 1/3 worn. Not sure what[s going on there. Ordering bits today from Rimmers :(
TPMS = good idea pressures seem to hold well. Jacking mechanism still in progress. I had to make my own high temp adhesive to stick the insulation in the furnace's lid. A mix of sodium hydroxide [NaOH @100%], distilled water and silica gel! Getting the right NaOH was illuminating! The supplier was quite cagey about giving me details of what % NaOH was in their packet. Apparently it's used as a heat source in drug making = P kitchens! Funny what you learn. o_O

For uneven pad wear, check the slide pins and pistons for sticking.

Also if you are looking to save on brake pads? Buy Delphi pads. These are the OE make and much better than other aftermarket pads.
 
Methinks John didn't read the first post in this thread. Our Freelanders don't need chequer plate cause us folks don't tend to climb on top of them.
PTO winch????
Rear steps????
Roof tent????

oops sorry did not realise it was just Freelanders that the question was thrown at, I'll go n sit on the naughty step for the rest of the day:p
 
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