I think what you need is here. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/definitive-freelander-vcu-testing-thread-99163.html
But there's loads of information on the forum
But there's loads of information on the forum
Ice/Snow Freelander Advice
- Thread starter SnowTrippin
- Start date
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Alibro
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Thanks
I'll sort a test rig out for the VCU and take some readings. I don't suppose there is any standardised testing procedure with comparable results?
I think I'll replace the hoses just for peace of mind. Going to remove the EGR valve so will clean out the intercooler while I'm in there too!
On the subject of tuning boxes, are there any recommendations here? I had my Defender remapped by Mike at Dyna Chip and the difference was indeed night and day, so I am definitely a believer!
A few here have said the Ron box is good but having a K series I can't comment.
I have the synergy2a "ronbox" on mine with the Pierburg MAF and it makes a very large, obvious difference. Improved acceleration times timed on a section of road with it on and off, plus it will go up the access road to the farm in third gear with it on, but needs dropped to second without the box. Fuel consumption rarely changes from 36 - 38mpg.
SnowTrippin
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sweet, thanks guys
With regards to silicone hoses, I'm looking at either this - Full set - £144.80 or this - 3 hoses - £39.64
Will the cheaper kit sort all of the high pressure pipework or would it be advisable to go with the full hose kit? I just want to "future proof" this now so that I don't have any issues with burst hoses during the winter when it's -20 outside!!
Cheers, Paul.
With regards to silicone hoses, I'm looking at either this - Full set - £144.80 or this - 3 hoses - £39.64
Will the cheaper kit sort all of the high pressure pipework or would it be advisable to go with the full hose kit? I just want to "future proof" this now so that I don't have any issues with burst hoses during the winter when it's -20 outside!!
Cheers, Paul.
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that 'full set' seems to have an extra hose that don't figure in the freelander1 td4
3 hose kit should do the job ..
imho .. the air intake one is surplus to requirements ..
standard ribbed one works fine ..
and the standard hose from the turbo outlet to the intercooler is a bit tougher ( more rigid ) than
the other standard intercooler hoses ..
( although some ppl have had that turbo outlet hose delaminate inside )
3 hose kit should do the job ..
imho .. the air intake one is surplus to requirements ..
standard ribbed one works fine ..
and the standard hose from the turbo outlet to the intercooler is a bit tougher ( more rigid ) than
the other standard intercooler hoses ..
( although some ppl have had that turbo outlet hose delaminate inside )
SnowTrippin
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thanks bud, went for the 3 hose kit and an EGR delete
i'd second the 'synergy 2a' tuning box / pierburg maf setup ..
( Synergy® Ronbox® tuning modules )
pics looks like it's a manual ..
( cause some would say a remap is better for an auto )
and a straight thru rear exhaust back box ..
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/an...h-smaller-more-compact-back-boxes-255102.html
~~~~~~~~~~
( Synergy® Ronbox® tuning modules )
pics looks like it's a manual ..
( cause some would say a remap is better for an auto )
and a straight thru rear exhaust back box ..
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/an...h-smaller-more-compact-back-boxes-255102.html
~~~~~~~~~~
GrumpyGel
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Going back to AWD cars turning off their 4WD systems when braking, just found this...
http://www.dorfbrunnen-garage.ch/englisch/pdf_e/allradantrieb_e.PDF
The GM Vectra/Calibra AWD used a VCU bolted on the back of the front diff. Between the VCU and the other mechanicals though is a hydraulically actuated clutch that can disengage the VCU. It looks like it specifically there to disengage the VCU when the brakes are applied. I believe Subaru also used exactly the same setup (at least on Legacy).
http://www.dorfbrunnen-garage.ch/englisch/pdf_e/allradantrieb_e.PDF
The GM Vectra/Calibra AWD used a VCU bolted on the back of the front diff. Between the VCU and the other mechanicals though is a hydraulically actuated clutch that can disengage the VCU. It looks like it specifically there to disengage the VCU when the brakes are applied. I believe Subaru also used exactly the same setup (at least on Legacy).
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GM own subaru don't they? Just checked, they had 20% stake.
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kourgath
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I thought the Scoobs had various 4x4 types which generally were of the proper centre diff with a locking mechanism which could be mechanical (torsen), viscous (like late RRC), plate-type, or with electrical/eletronic action similar to Haldex - some even had both (DCCD).
As to the original question - I have only recently got my Hippo so can't comment much. However, there is one hill I travel down regularly that is about 2km long (drops approx 400m) when this was snow/ice the 90 in low-range (my 90 has the RRC viscous centre so no manual control of diff-lock) was OK. I would imagine that the Hippo being a bit lighter and with 4 wheel ABS would have been fine as well. As has been said tyres make a big difference as some are good winters - others are not good winters. Just look at tyre reviews in the various mags.
As to the original question - I have only recently got my Hippo so can't comment much. However, there is one hill I travel down regularly that is about 2km long (drops approx 400m) when this was snow/ice the 90 in low-range (my 90 has the RRC viscous centre so no manual control of diff-lock) was OK. I would imagine that the Hippo being a bit lighter and with 4 wheel ABS would have been fine as well. As has been said tyres make a big difference as some are good winters - others are not good winters. Just look at tyre reviews in the various mags.
GrumpyGel
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All I know is that my mate's Legacy has a viscous coupling and there's a fuse to disable it - which is how that doc describes the GM system.
jedi
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Sounds like how it should be done...LR cut corners with its skid inducing chassis ripping attempt [emoji106]
kourgath
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- Cornwall ?Devon border
I suppose with most manufacturers they let the marketing munts get involved so that the exact configuration is hidden behind acronyms and made up names. I find J**p with their Quadratrak variations as well as Hydratrak etc annoying to say the least. It looks like Subaru has the same issue with Symmetric AWD.
Got some of my detail for Scoob 4wd from a doc and various pages when I was thinking of getting one. Ahh found one - damn too big for attachment.
As to OP any general purpose system will have issues. I think the advantage of the old viscous system is that it takes time to work so you get a less abrupt change in attitude which may help in this instance. However,
you've only got to look at the various modes Haldex 4/5 can do (latest Terrain Response changes lock-up timing/strength depending upon settings). Electronic control does allow more suitable settings that may help - however, it is the prospect of the system over-heating and then cutting out I'd want answered.
SnowTrippin
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- 89
Thanks for the feedback.
I've gone for a Freelander, got it for a good price as it needs a thermostat which I will be replacing next week (previous owner quoted £700+ by LR!), otherwise it has been serviced every year, regardless of mileage and cost at a Land Rover main dealer in Reading.
Thinking of keeping it for a couple of years, then trading up to a new Discovery
Thanks again for all the input
I've gone for a Freelander, got it for a good price as it needs a thermostat which I will be replacing next week (previous owner quoted £700+ by LR!), otherwise it has been serviced every year, regardless of mileage and cost at a Land Rover main dealer in Reading.
Thinking of keeping it for a couple of years, then trading up to a new Discovery
Thanks again for all the input
SnapBrokeIt
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SnowTrippin's
Hope this helps, I've been to the alps many times in my 04 td4 and its fantastic, on my last trip to Chamonix I had to avoid cars slipping back down the hill and then shot past them up to the top with-out any problems..... I've always used GoodYear Wrangler hp all-weather tyres and they've worked fine for me! They also seem to work on Ice too! You need a good set of tyres....
Note: A few years back in Chamonix a defender got stuck in an attempt to park in the snow in an over crowded car park, he changed his mind and got stuck! I was directly behind and used my tow rope to drag him out. He was a little red faced and I didn't even get a thank you... Hippo wins!
Tip: Fill up in luxembourg as it cheaper and go via Dunkirk to avoid as much tolls as poss.
Warning: If your out there at NY then make sure your car is safe, I've had my car vandalized with the wiper/motor and all ripped off and they seem to target British cars - I've seen the aftermath in Chamonix twice and been the victim once - it not fun driving back to England without wiper blades....
Good luck and have a great season...
Hope this helps, I've been to the alps many times in my 04 td4 and its fantastic, on my last trip to Chamonix I had to avoid cars slipping back down the hill and then shot past them up to the top with-out any problems..... I've always used GoodYear Wrangler hp all-weather tyres and they've worked fine for me! They also seem to work on Ice too! You need a good set of tyres....
Note: A few years back in Chamonix a defender got stuck in an attempt to park in the snow in an over crowded car park, he changed his mind and got stuck! I was directly behind and used my tow rope to drag him out. He was a little red faced and I didn't even get a thank you... Hippo wins!
Tip: Fill up in luxembourg as it cheaper and go via Dunkirk to avoid as much tolls as poss.
Warning: If your out there at NY then make sure your car is safe, I've had my car vandalized with the wiper/motor and all ripped off and they seem to target British cars - I've seen the aftermath in Chamonix twice and been the victim once - it not fun driving back to England without wiper blades....
Good luck and have a great season...
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