Medusa
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you can get a funny silicon dizzy cover looks like a multifingered glove in the all makes catalog
I want a V8
- Thread starter woods767
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mjltigger
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SV8 waterproof kit :: Land Rover Accessories from Mill Services
hope it's cheaper in the allmakes.. and have we already got two threads on the same subject.. was that my fault???
hope it's cheaper in the allmakes.. and have we already got two threads on the same subject.. was that my fault???
classic kev
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These kits are all well and good but they don't, as far as I am aware stop the problem of condensation. You would be better off saving the money and just sealing the dizzy cap with RTV or similar and then making a vent system for the dizzy - I think there is a post about that somewhere else in LZ. As for the coil, well you can make a cover - use an old plastic ice cream tub or similar and seal with sillicon or wrap in a plastic bag to protect from water but again you need to be able to get air to it to make sure it doesn't get affected by condensation. At least that's what I understand.
mjltigger
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if it's dry to begin with (duck oil and blue roll) then no water can get in (silicone gloove puppet thingy) surely there's no chance of condensation forming???
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yes there is, Tigger - there is water in the atmosphere and the engine gets hot - but the outide of the disty can be cold (airflow and dunking in water). The water in the air then condenses on the coldest surface - ie the inside wall of the disty (like inside a window in the winter) and causes electrical tracking. Thats why distributors have a vent hole in them.
mjltigger
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ah ok...
I always wondered why they weren't sealed and filled with inert gas.. cost I suppose but maybe it can be done retrosepctively .. what you reckon??
I always wondered why they weren't sealed and filled with inert gas.. cost I suppose but maybe it can be done retrosepctively .. what you reckon??
zzr1200
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Create an air flow through the dizzy, 2 small pipes grafted into the dizzy case opposite each other, one taken as high as possible as a breather the other is connected to a small compressor (12 volt tyre type, mounted inside the vehicle) when wading just turn on the compressor and leave running.
Now seal the dizzy with silicon.
This method was tested by an AWDC member years ago and worked well...
Now seal the dizzy with silicon.
This method was tested by an AWDC member years ago and worked well...
Last edited:
mjltigger
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sounds like aqn elephant deterant in the fridge to me..
if you seal your dizzy it wont get any water in it.. if condensation is an issue then a breather can be fitted.. but why would it need airflow.. it wasn't built or designed to have airflow wet or dry..
classic kev
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Intriguing thought running a small compressor but I would have thought it is easier to use vacuum off the manifold, not much to go wrong with a bit of pipe. No wires, fuses, motors or anything else to go pop just when you really need it.
As for the question of air flow, the whole point is to increase the ventilation rate to remove excess water vapour from inside the dizzy cap. Like MHM said, when you dunk your engine in cold water, the outside of the dizzy cools down and condensation forms in the cap. It isn't too bad if you keep the engine running but as soon as you switch it off for a few minutes you will have the mother of all misfires.
So even if you have taken sensible precautions to protect your engine for a bit of swimming it would be wise to pop the dizzy cap off afterward, let it vent for a couple of minutes, wipe it down and give it a spray of WD or similar. In the alternative, just seal and vent the dizzy.
As for the question of air flow, the whole point is to increase the ventilation rate to remove excess water vapour from inside the dizzy cap. Like MHM said, when you dunk your engine in cold water, the outside of the dizzy cools down and condensation forms in the cap. It isn't too bad if you keep the engine running but as soon as you switch it off for a few minutes you will have the mother of all misfires.
So even if you have taken sensible precautions to protect your engine for a bit of swimming it would be wise to pop the dizzy cap off afterward, let it vent for a couple of minutes, wipe it down and give it a spray of WD or similar. In the alternative, just seal and vent the dizzy.
zzr1200
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Sorry for the very late answer, if you just have fitted a breather the pipe that could be as long as say 8 feet+ (if taken to the top of a roll cage), the chances of any condensation leaving the end of the pipe is all most none.
If the distributor is totally sealed (apart from the breather pipe) there will be no air flow inside the dizzy cap only expansion and retraction due to heating and cooling, this will slowly increase the moisture content levels over repeated heating/cooling cycles.
To create an air flow to remove the any condensation you need 2 pipes, if the pipes are long (as would be required for a distributor breather to the top of roll cage), you are now back to to the heating/cooling cycle with very little if any air flow in the dizzy cap.
So we now introduce a pump to create an air flow, hence the use of a compressor, if the pump is mounted high inside the passenger compartment theres a good chance it will stay fairly dry-ish, if you intend submerge the pump fit an on/off switch.
