I want a P38 but.........

Hi Everyone I'm new to your site and require your experience and thoughts.
I am no stranger to mechanics and electrics as I was a car techy for 14 years upto to 2000. I also own a nissan 300zx twin turbo and a Rolls Royce shadow 1, so I'm no stranger to Britsh quality and Japanese electrical probs .

Now the questions, I've been looking for P38 4.6 HSE (if ya gonna have one, have a biggun!) around N,P,or R Reg, I've got around £3.5 K to spend. I've looked at ones with 75k right up to 150K miles and nothing is consistent. Can anyone tell me if the switch that operates the suspension should operate between all 4 setting as and when you press it? Cause I've looked at a couple that only switch between the straight line and the wadeing setting but won't do the bottom 2 settings????? Is this something major?
Should you be able to hear the air pump all the time or should it cut out once its reached it height? And how long should it be before the car rises from cold? I looked at one today and the bloke told me it hadn't been started for a week and was right down, when we started it it took about 3 to 5 minutes before it started to rise.

Secondly, I've read a lot of threads about over heating and associated problems. Some that I've driven the temp guage reads just over the middle and some a fraction under, some appear to be down a bit in the reservior but none have appeared to overheated while I've tested them, and i've done the normal checks, rad, hoses warm etc. Do they use a bit of water anyway or should I stay away from any that may require 1/2 litre to bring them off minimum?

I'm at a loss, these are very much like Rollers, they all look lovely but you could quite easily buy a pup and not know until youve got home. Although I have seen some s**t and some that appear nice.I don't mind buying something that might just need a solenoid or a sensor replaced but I don't want to get home and have to do a complete rebuild.

Thanks in advance and I look forward to your thoughts.

Regards Jase

They are a fickle car indeed. Great if you get a good one but a nightmare if you get the other kind. The air suspension normally sits at the 2nd light height and automatically sinks to the 3rd light when you do over 50mph constantly for 30 secs. You can manually select the top and bottom light settings (stationary -or creeping speed I think- and with all the doors closed). The car should rise almost immediately if it has settled. The pump will cut in and out as necessary and makes a sound you will get used to once you learn to trust its doing its job. Obviously any groaning and grumbling or popping could be expensive as the pump could be about to depart. The indash warning module usually gives you a clue if something is wrong.

The V8 can be prone to overheating. Its the cylinder liners giving up the ghost and the block becoming porous. This sucks water and either evaporates it rapidly or worst case can fill up the bores and everything stops. That means a new engine! The low water could be that or a leaking heater matrix which is tucked away nicely inside the dash (complete strip out) or just a slack hose. A good service history is imperative and your price bracket looks about right. Take someone along who knows them before shelling out otherwise you will pay in the long run.

Jase M said:

Can anyone tell me if the switch that operates the suspension should operate between all 4 setting as and when you press it? Cause I've looked at a couple that only switch between the straight line and the

wadeing​

setting but won't do the bottom 2 settings????? Is this something major?

Click to expand...

The motorway setting is selected automatically when you have been driving at over 50mph for a certain period. It can be inhibited (for when you are towing) by pressing the button to the right, but you cannot manually select that height.

As for the "access" level, that is manually selectable. I haven't quite worked out when it should/shouldn't work. Mine does go down but I think you need the engine running. I have never used it really so have never bothered to figure it out


EDIT. Beaten to it

Thanks guys, i suppose I should of asked if you know of any good ones for sale in price bracket?
regards,
Jase
PS is there a mileage that this all starts to go Pete Tong or is it a case of being looked after and it will go for ever?

Welcome to the forum.
have just purchased a 4.6HSE and have had the same problems as yourself.

I am no expert and any knowledge I have picked up has been with the help of this site, but I have a few suggestions which may come in handy. You may be familiar with cars but I will list items for those who may not be as familiar.


1. Download the Rave manual and the parts manual from the net, Use this thread.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/down-load-manuals-55862.html

1a. Browse for Land Rover FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions - Home and Range Rovers for additional help

2. Take a good look around the car, Is it level ?
3. Look underneath for more than a little oil leak etc.
4. Open bonnet and check oil filler cap for white gue, This MAY be an indication of head gasket problems, also check for signs of overheating, water discharged from coolant top-up tank, this tank should be clean and have clean coolant, if does not I would walk away at this stage. While you at it smell the oil cap for burn't oil, is it nice and brown or black gunge.
5. Look for more oil leaks from rocker covers, or leaks from hoses, check hoses for oil leaks etc.
6. Check general condition of engine, is the oil clean, does it feel silky. Black and lumpy then walk away.
7. If you are reasonably happy then start the car. It should start from outside the car first try without your foot anywhere near the accelerator. OK then
8. Close the door, dont touch the foot pedal or the following will not happen.
Did all the lights come on height control switch? They should have Press the button on the right hand side of the height panel it should light up. Select highest position by pressing the height control button a couple of times if correct, the lamp to indicate selected height will flash, the car should rise fairly quickly to the selected height, it may riseback first followed closely by the front. If it is slow to react or raises one side then the other this is not correct. Now try lowering the car and up again several times to familarise yourself with the operation. Leave in the high position.. Jump out and listen for for hissing sounds... There shouldn't be any and the car should stay up and be level... switch off the engine and check again for hissing. The car should stay up with the engine off and remain level.
9. Start the engine again and listen for clicking noises withi the engine, don't get mislead by the A/C copressor clicking in and out. May indicate slipped liner.
The engine should sound sweet and quiet and with the bonnet shut and sitting inside the car the engine should almost be inaudible. A little white soke when starting from cold is normal but should go away when warm. Place your hand over exhaust and look for wet black blobs or smoke, could be running rich.
10. When the enhgine is hot squeeze the top hose on the rad and see if you can sqeeze coolant back into the coolant tank. If it is rock hard then you may have excessive pressure in the system from a head gasket fault.
11. Is the passenger well floor Dry. Also check the boot for damp.
12. Has it got 2 keys? Are they numbered 1 and 2 ?
13. Has it got a full service history ? with proof that it has been cared for.
14. Then and only then go for a test drive........

Yes these cars can suffer from head gasket and suspension faults but if you select a good one then they are a beautiful car and well worth purchasing.

If in doubt walk away and select another one, it's almost a buyers market at present as so many have been put of by rumours in the last budget. When you find one that you are happy with after the first few tests then go for a long test drive and keep an eye on the temperature guage, try out all the toys and make certain they all work.
She should sit on the road without pullng to one side or the other or you may have steering damper or worse.
If you can check the pollen filters each side at the rear of the engine bay, are they clean? This can indicate although the car may have been serviced it may not have been done properly.

There are loads of checks to make before you commit yourself and will no doubt get advised by the members here.

Good Luck
I hope this helps
Fred

My purchasing technique was
"Does the air suspension work as it should?"
"Does it use any oil or water?"
"Does it drive well?"

Luckily mine drives well, doesn't use oil or water and the air suspension is comfy and very quick to rise. Can raise it from "crawl" to the top height setting in around 15 seconds.

The list of stuff that needs doing is still long enough though. Every day I find something else that it needs, but I also discover something else that it can do. At the moment I've got the TC/ABS/Brake warning light flashes when I first touch the brake, "ALARM FAULT" on the dash, a broken door amplifier (cost me £3.20 off ebay), and the keyfob needs a new battery (the car told me that). Oh, and the headlining on the sunroof blind needs replacing.

Still love it though.

All the settings are manually selectable when the inhibit button beside the selector switch is pressed, The ECU will override the button at the wading and access setting (important to remember if you use it for getting under low barriers) if you cross certain speeds but will otherwise maintain the selected height. Without the inhibit button pressed it wont go into access mode if your foot is on the brake or the car is in gear. Any door, bonnet or boot open will prevent any changes. When you select a height that light flashes until it has reached that height.
A one that is slow to rise is an indication of leaks or a weak compressor, neither are insurmountable (the leaks can be very frustrating though) but will drive down the asking price. Have a good look at the airbags to see what condition they are in as they are the most expensive part to replace, that is at least if you are up to doing the compressor rebuild yourself.

Re Pete-M's alarm fault, see the thread I put on in February on that very subject. If your battery has been interrupted you'll need to reset it and re tune the key fobs manually in the door lock as well as by pressing the button. I've copied it below. Give that a try. How is your brake fluid level?

"I have managed to fix it. Method - Switch on ignition then off and disconnect battery within 17 seconds to prevent back up alarm activating. (It helps if the bonnet is open and the battery cover is already off for this bit.) Reconnect battery, start car, switch off, lock it by the remote and then put the key in the door lock and relock. The second bit re-synchronizes the key fob to the car as well. "Alarm Fault" no more."

Thanking thou.

I have mine up for same blue with cream leather 4.6 top spec all color coded 85 k everything works air suspension fine engine gearbox fine evrything works up for 3995? might take a cash deal.

Jase M said:

Thanks guys, i suppose I should of asked if you know of any good ones for sale in price bracket?

Click to expand...

Should be pretty difficult to buy a bad one for that money. Arse has fallen out of them price wise since the budget road tax increase. Bizarre when it only actually affects the last of the P38s. Plenty of choice out there. I bought my '95 4.6 HSE for way less than you have to spend and it's one of the better ones I've seen.

Jase M said:

PS is there a mileage that this all starts to go Pete Tong or is it a case of being looked after and it will go for ever?

Click to expand...

Dunno, mine's on 181k miles and seems fine. Just listen very carefully to the engine, check everything works as it should, be very careful about water leaks / water level etc. Beware that sometimes a slipped liner will sound very very similar to a knackered camshaft.

Good luck!