I think I’ve buggered it

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What’s point testing battery if there’s no extra bolts trying to go back into it


I have to conclude it’s alternator either jumping it with booster pack fried it or it’s just failed same time


Next move is alternator it looks fiddly can’t see why viscous has to come off??
Can’t even see a belt tensioner it’s bloody tight
You test the alternator output with the engine running using a DVM, should see 14.7 volts + at 2K rpm across the battery. A seriously duff battery can hold down the voltage. Corroded or failed earth connections can also cause failure to charge and of course a duff battery cannot be charged.
 
3.0td an L322 I wreckon?
Not sure if the diesel has a water cooled alternator? Easier job than most to change out the alternator, secret is to remove as much as possible for working space and invest in a viscous fan removal spanner, sharp tap on spanner with small amount of pressure anti clockwise seems to do the job! Loads of posts on Youtube. Did my my L322 4.4 last month expecting a battle after experience with my Merc ML270, had to take turbo out and replace faffy little O rings and drill a retaining bolt! I had same symptoms..... no warnings but after a while stuff stopped working... much like tunnel vision. Stuck a secondhand alt in for £30.
 
Not sure if the diesel has a water cooled alternator? Easier job than most to change out the alternator, secret is to remove as much as possible for working space and invest in a viscous fan removal spanner, sharp tap on spanner with small amount of pressure anti clockwise seems to do the job! Loads of posts on Youtube. Did my my L322 4.4 last month expecting a battle after experience with my Merc ML270, had to take turbo out and replace faffy little O rings and drill a retaining bolt! I had same symptoms..... no warnings but after a while stuff stopped working... much like tunnel vision. Stuck a secondhand alt in for £30.
The battery terminals seem a bit weak on L322, worth checking for movement and good connections?
 
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