P38A I had it!!

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cornishboater

cornishboater

Well-Known Member
Posts
639
Location
Poole, Dorset
Well for those of you that have read my posts regarding the suspension issues I am finally throwing the towel in. I am going to replace the lot with springs, the question is are the Britpart ones any good, where is the best source and will I need anything else additional to the kit. At least I will be able to leave home without the stress of not knowing where the "EAS FAULT" message pops up and the car will sit straight!!
I am also looking at getting a set from one of the respected used spare guys.
 
What exactly is the problem? Mines not perfect but I've never had a major issue.

Before you do it, check with your insurer whether they will cover the modification
 
kermit_rr said:
What exactly is the problem? Mines not perfect but I've never had a major issue.

Before you do it, check with your insurer whether they will cover the modification
Click to expand...
Well after 4 new air bags, 3 valve blocks (rebuilt) 2 ECUs tried, new rear sensors, 6 calibrations later the rear LH rises to beyond wade height when set to standard height and is sitting at standard when motorway is selected. The other corners were ok(ish) but now the front wont rise but the back does. Have checked all valves with the nano and they all function as they should, the compressor is fine (I tried a spare rebuilt one also) The fron end was alwas quite close to the correct settings. I have even tried switching driver packs to see if that does anything but no change. I can alter the rear sensor data and it lowers but as soon as I start the car it goes into fault with a "sensor out of range" fault and immediately reverts back to a default and the same issue is back again. So after much thought I think it is time to ditch the bloody system, there is no-one in this area that is savvy with the P38, the local indy wont touch them anymore. I am very mechanically apt (I was an automotive engineer) so I am usually pretty good at getting stuff fixed but this one has done me in. This has been an ongoing battle in various ways for years so enough is enough!
Rant over :)
 
Datatek said:
What a shame, whatever the problem is, it will be a simple fix when found and the EAS is the car's best feature:(
Click to expand...
I agree Keith, I love the ride but I cannot keep hunting for this issue, I suspect a faulty wire somewhere in the loom but I have tested them all and thus far nothing has surfaced. All of the EAS stuff is functional and have checked the operation via my nano and all is working. So as I said enough is enough, I just want a peaceful non arse puckering drive waiting for the random bloody "beep, beep"
 
A shame to ditch the EAS. It must be something simple, especially with all the stuff you've changed.

Did you calibrate using blocks or measuring tape ? With tape method, it's important to measure all four corners even when only adjusting one, because they impact each other. On blocks the car is stable, so the values for each block-height can be programmed directly.

Sensor wiring can easily be tested by adjusting from Access to Extended & watching the reading are stable. Alternatively using simple 12V connections to the driver pack input you could manually change the height from bump stops to max & do the same sensor test.

If it's calibrating correctly, but randomly going all tilt when driving, then a Nanocom live recording while driving might highlight the issue. That way you can look at target versus actual heights over time (and graph them a bit like below).

upload_2022-6-17_17-6-37.png


upload_2022-6-17_17-5-55.png
 
pwood999 said:
A shame to ditch the EAS. It must be something simple, especially with all the stuff you've changed.

Did you calibrate using blocks or measuring tape ? With tape method, it's important to measure all four corners even when only adjusting one, because they impact each other. On blocks the car is stable, so the values for each block-height can be programmed directly.

Sensor wiring can easily be tested by adjusting from Access to Extended & watching the reading are stable. Alternatively using simple 12V connections to the driver pack input you could manually change the height from bump stops to max & do the same sensor test.

If it's calibrating correctly, but randomly going all tilt when driving, then a Nanocom live recording while driving might highlight the issue. That way you can look at target versus actual heights over time (and graph them a bit like below).

View attachment 267399

View attachment 267398
Click to expand...
Calibration was by blocks, set all the heights and as soon as I restart the car it faults with sensor out of range a sends the LH back to default and the rear left goes basically wade height on standard when the others are fairly close to the physical measurements. When dropped to motorway the LH sits at around standard height. Access and wade are pretty well ok. The back end has also started to rise when the car is off (only when stopped at motorway or standard heights) doesn’t do it wade or access.
 
When i set mine, i started by setting an arbitrary value same on each corner, then measuring and adjusting.
Nanocom will show live values and the target is trying to reach which isn't always the value you've set. It will also tell you which valves are opening and which mode it's in, eg leveling, sleep etc
 
Speaking from experience, if going for coils, use standard ride height ones. They will do whatever you need, unless your truck is a dedicated off roader. Going for the 2” lift option will give a harsh ride on the road. I have two P38s, one on air and the other on standard height coils, there is no difference in the ride quality.
 
I'm not a P38 owner, but just out of pure curiosity what (in general) is the insurance co. attitude to this conversion; steel springs were never fitted in production so surely this is a major deviation from the manuf. spec.
 
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