Hydro-****ed - what happens when you drive through the Spey in spate

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payydg

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Aberdeenshire
Haven’t posted for ages as me and the landy were getting on swimmingly… until I took it actually swimming by trying to cross the Spey in spate and now I’ve drowned the engine. Excellent work by me.

Engine rebuild time. Which is fine as I was just thinking I had too much time and money on my hands. Not.

Obviously I’ll strip it and survey the damage but so I can start planning and budgeting what normally fails when an engine (200tdi defender) gets hydro locked?
 
Check con rods straight when you have them out.

Snorkel worth the effort.

200 tough old lumps, I heat seized mine one winter in the snow off roading as forgot to turn fan on, decade later still running.
Another 200 the engine oil for some reason turned to syrup and had no oil pressure for the first mile or two, this went on for ages before I could be bothered to see what was wrong, still running with new oil.
 
Check con rods straight when you have them out.

Snorkel worth the effort.

200 tough old lumps, I heat seized mine one winter in the snow off roading as forgot to turn fan on, decade later still running.
Another 200 the engine oil for some reason turned to syrup and had no oil pressure for the first mile or two, this went on for ages before I could be bothered to see what was wrong, still running with new oil.

They are hard as a coffin nail. Good shout, I guessed I’d need a new set of con rods and pistons at the very least.

I was hoping to avoid a new crank…

With a streak of sheer genius I took the snorkel off a couple of years ago.
 
Bet you get away with pushrods and maybe valve gear as @Hicap phill phill suggets above.

Indeed, I can’t see the con-rods going before the valves (non-interference) and push-rods. Pistons should be alright too.

I’d be happy if it was just a head rebuild. Although why would the valves and push rods suffer if there was water in the piston on the compression stroke wouldn’t this be against closed valves?
 
Silly question/statement time.
A valve can not be bent if it’s closed, an engine can only hydro look if valves are closed?

J
 
I’d be happy if it was just a head rebuild. Although why would the valves and push rods suffer if there was water in the piston on the compression stroke wouldn’t this be against closed valves?
Water will be in the engine & do the damage before the exhaust valves open. Softest metal is the push rods.
Check rods for bends
Then take head off & check the piston movement
 
Water will be in the engine & do the damage before the exhaust valves open. Softest metal is the push rods.
Check rods for bends
Then take head off & check the piston movement

That makes sense. Thanks pal. Is there a way to measure the piston heights to check without having to take the bottom end apart?
 
Silly question/statement time.
A valve can not be bent if it’s closed, an engine can only hydro look if valves are closed?

J
 

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They are hard as a coffin nail. Good shout, I guessed I’d need a new set of con rods and pistons at the very least.

I was hoping to avoid a new crank…

With a streak of sheer genius I took the snorkel off a couple of years ago.
If you do end up needing con rods, pistons and or a crank I have all of these (crank has been re-ground) used from an engine that was broken for spares. Plan was to rebuild it but head was cracked and fuel pump was siezed. So I have boxes of spare used parts if you don’t fancy going down the new route.
But I would agree with the above. a Top end rebuild and maybe a piston or two should be all you need.
 
That makes sense. Thanks pal. Is there a way to measure the piston heights to check without having to take the bottom end apart?
Once you have the head off rotate the engine and measure each piston height.
Look for score marks at the same time this should show any bends in con rods(
 
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