timtheenchanteruk
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get somone to hit the end of the socket while you lean on it, worked fine for me on umpteen motors, I only have a 1/2" drive set.
you shouldnt do unless cheepy style sockets i use 1/2 set for most heavy work including hub nuts , 2ft bar and tube should do it my 1/2 inch batytery guns undone all ive had to do over he years ,torque wrench for retightening isnt essntial at all as long as you get it tight , theres no other reason than the nut been tight enough it doesnt undo , a tube on a 2ft breaker bar would achieve it with ease , if a nut is really stuck hitting each flat in turn centrally hard with a good sizes hammer and punch etc will eventually loosen it ,you eventually stretch the nut as well as the shock breaking rustyou will struggle with half inch sockets, nut is far tighter than half inch is designed for.
Hell my truck it is 150/165ftlbs I use a 6 point socket and a 18" breaker bar. If I can't push it down to loosen, then I just stand on it and give a little jump. Never been defeated yet. ( nice to be a fat arse yank at times) but with the road salts they can really make a lug nut rust up solid. Copper cote just a smigin and never have had a issue in decades.But I wire brush the threads first400 Nm/295 lb ft is to much for cheap tools. Specially if you are trying to undo it. 1/2" torque wrench should tighten it with ease but one going that high will be expensive. 3/4" gear is the way to go undoing something that tight. Even good quality 1/2" stuff will struggle at times with stuff that tight.
Hell my truck it is 150/165ftlbs I use a 6 point socket and a 18" breaker bar. If I can't push it down to loosen, then I just stand on it and give a little jump. Never been defeated yet. ( nice to be a fat arse yank at times) but with the road salts they can really make a lug nut rust up solid. Copper cote just a smigin and never have had a issue in decades.But I wire brush the threads first
It definitely takes more than 11 stone bouncing on the end of the bar!
Turn the bar so you can stand on it, parallel to the floor, add extension ... walk out slowly till it gives in ... doddle ...As steady pull with leverage is better than bouncy bouncy.
Turn the bar so you can stand on it, parallel to the floor, add extension ... walk out slowly till it gives in ... doddle ...
and the bar will flex till it hits the floor, its better to pull extended bar up unless you want knuckles full of gravel, though without decent tools splitting the nut might be simplerTurn the bar so you can stand on it, parallel to the floor, add extension ... walk out slowly till it gives in ... doddle ...
Not that steady ... I wobble like a duck with St Vitus Dance on the bloody thing ...That would be steady pressure with leverage then?
My knuckles hit the floor after my feet I'll have you know .....and the bar will flex till it hits the floor, its better to pull extended bar up unless you want knuckles full of gravel
2 separate pointsMy knuckles hit the floor after my feet I'll have you know .....
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