howto: 200tdi injector refurb

Shifty1962 · Aug 10, 2010

Pos counting parts from the right hand side the third part in. I only ask as in your fourth parts breakdown picture in your first post it looks a bit worn on the tip.
I have no other reason to ask other than I'm curious. Was the needle in good shape?
When you going to take a TD5 injector apart for me?

pos · Aug 10, 2010

Shifty1962 said:
Pos counting parts from the right hand side the third part in. I only ask as in your fourth parts breakdown picture in your first post it looks a bit worn on the tip.
I have no other reason to ask other than I'm curious. Was the needle in good shape?
When you going to take a TD5 injector apart for me?

That is indeed the nozzle needle (left) and it makes the complete nozzle assembly along with the nozzle body (right). When you buy a new nozzle, you get both parts pre-assembled and you simply leave them be and fit them straight into place. The photo below simply shows the wear on the tip of the old needle which was causing low 'pop' pressures and an irratic spray pattern:

As for your TD5 injectors, well.. got one you'd like to send me?

-Pos

Shifty1962 · Aug 11, 2010

OK makes sense now. I thought you had just changed the nozzle only.
I think I have an old TD5 injector that could be donated for the cause.
I'll have a rummage in my shed and sort it out over the weekend.

Fluffle-Valve · Feb 11, 2017

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread.
After finding a huge price for new and or refurbished injectors, this thread was forwarded on to me.
I have just decided to take my 200tdi injectors apart this evening, after reading this thread.
I'll be taking a real good look at them tomorrow and clean them up, then decide on whether they need new nozzles.
Thak you for an informative write-up. It has given me the confidence to strip them down and take a look myself.
Hoping to save a bob or two.

lynall · Feb 12, 2017

Sometimes theres a guy on ebay who refurbs your own injectors for a good price

Chambo90 · Jan 10, 2021

Thread revival time.. looking to do injectors very soon. Question is.. can I just unscrew pipe work on top or is it all high pressure stuff
Thanks in advance

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Chambo90 said:
Thread revival time.. looking to do injectors very soon. Question is.. can I just unscrew pipe work on top or is it all high pressure stuff
Thanks in advance

Yes just crack them off slightly and any excess pressure will drain off immediately.
Dont bend pipes, loosen bottom unions then top ones, and wiggle them to one side, it is easier with pipes totally removed.

Chambo90 · Jan 10, 2021

lynall said:
Yes just crack them off slightly and any excess pressure will drain off immediately.
Dont bend pipes, loosen bottom unions then top ones, and wiggle them to one side, it is easier with pipes totally removed.

by bottoms ?? You mean ones on the pump itself ??. Sorry not had head under bonnet for a while.. can’t picture it ?

Chambo90 · Jan 10, 2021

Also
Is it worth replacing the whole injector, or will a nozzle change and clean up work ok?
I’ve not done much mileage in the 4yrs I’ve owned but there’s 160k on clock... plus Speedo wasn’t working when I got it so who knows true miles.
And last of all.. I think.. do I need an ultrasonic bath or would brake cleaner do the job.. I’ve watched a few online videos and it seems fairly straightforward as long as I don’t mess up the order of things
Thanks again

Landyfox · Jan 10, 2021

I’m so very tempted to try this. The reduction in power on hills in my 300TDI is ridiculous. I’ve worked my way around most other things except advancing the timing which I plan to do after lockdown. That said, I’m sure I have an issue with my injectors as well as them leaking. Would be interesting to hear if anyone else has done this.

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Chambo90 said:
Also
Is it worth replacing the whole injector, or will a nozzle change and clean up work ok?
I’ve not done much mileage in the 4yrs I’ve owned but there’s 160k on clock... plus Speedo wasn’t working when I got it so who knows true miles.
And last of all.. I think.. do I need an ultrasonic bath or would brake cleaner do the job.. I’ve watched a few online videos and it seems fairly straightforward as long as I don’t mess up the order of things
Thanks again

If you have no means to bench test them I would get a diesel shop to do the refurb, after all how would you know they are working correctly? and if not working correctly it could lead to engine damage.
In my mind if it starts instantly, smokes a little when cold which clears when engine is hot and has enough power I would leave alone.

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Landyfox said:
I’m so very tempted to try this. The reduction in power on hills in my 300TDI is ridiculous. I’ve worked my way around most other things except advancing the timing which I plan to do after lockdown. That said, I’m sure I have an issue with my injectors as well as them leaking. Would be interesting to hear if anyone else has done this.

If the timing is correct using the timing pins, advancing timing wont really hlep with the power loss you are experiencing.

Chambo90 · Jan 10, 2021

lynall said:
If you have no means to bench test them I would get a diesel shop to do the refurb, after all how would you know they are working correctly? and if not working correctly it could lead to engine damage.
In my mind if it starts instantly, smokes a little when cold which clears when engine is hot and has enough power I would leave alone.

Yep
I think I’m in agreement with you.. I’ll take them out and run them down.
Does £12.50 per injector sound about right to test ??
Thanks

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Chambo90 said:
Yep
I think I’m in agreement with you.. I’ll take them out and run them down.
Does £12.50 per injector sound about right to test ??
Thanks

Been roughy a tenner each for a decade at least.

Landyfox · Jan 10, 2021

I’m happy to have them tested..... I know for certain that they are leaking and need new copper washers. I would also very much suspect they’re worn out now as they have not been replaced since 1994. As per my thread, I’ve checked everything from HG, fuel pump, turbo, filter and all is well. However I have no smoke and it starts on the button, equally the engine ideals as it should. I think I’m going to retest the compression of each cylinder. What kind of value range should I be looking for?

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Landyfox said:
I’m happy to have them tested..... I know for certain that they are leaking and need new copper washers. I would also very much suspect they’re worn out now as they have not been replaced since 1994. As per my thread, I’ve checked everything from HG, fuel pump, turbo, filter and all is well. However I have no smoke and it starts on the button, equally the engine ideals as it should. I think I’m going to retest the compression of each cylinder. What kind of value range should I be looking for?

Get injs tested refit with new coppper washers, then check diaphragm is free to move as is the fuel pin, add a few drops of oil, reassemble, turn diaghpram 90 degrees clockwise, then test drive, if better, turn max fuel screw in 90 dgerees, test again, job done, but messing with fuel pump is pointless until you know the rest of the system is okay first.

neilly · Jan 10, 2021

lynall said:
turn diaghpram 90 degrees clockwise,

How do you know it has not been messed with, changed to a "boost" pin , or already at its max governor pin position?

Cheers

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

neilly said:
How do you know it has not been messed with, changed to a "boost" pin , or already at its max governor pin position?

Cheers

Remove the 4 screws and lift off the lid, sometimes you have to rotate it a couple fot iems to push the fuel pin back into its hole, then lift the boost pin out and look at it, it is quite obvious where the fuel pin has been rubbing as it will be the largest wear mark on the tapered fuel pin.
The heaviest wear mark will be aimed at the front of the engine ie cambelt en, very rare to find one that has not been messed with.
The proper standard boost pin is a concentric taper, the aftermarket ones are just a one sided affair, no adjustability at all, just full on fuel delivery at all rpms/load which will equal smoke and lots of it.

lynall · Jan 10, 2021

Pics from old pump in garage,
Still has factory seal on max fuel screw = good sign pump is std,

But top of diagphragm has been scratch marked to casing so someone has been in here before,

Look at the taper , see the short but heavy score make in the middle? ignore the two longer marks as they are shadows caused by lights in garage, that is its normal running position, there were some much lighter score mkars, so light I could not get them to show on piccy, so again it has been tweaked at some time in its life, but not madly as max screw seal still there.

steve2286w · Jan 10, 2021

The injectors come apart easily clamp in vice and spanner on the end , and as long as you get the bits in right order shouldn’t do any harm, you can see various holes and pins in the parts which ensure it goes back together same way
Used brake cleaner initially then bought a cheapie ultrasonic, you can inspect for carbon build up , pitting and correct spray pattern by spraying wd40 or brake cleaner through nozzle , the ultra sonic did a better job of cleaning the bits
You can also buy new nozzles if duff but I have read it could be hit and miss on quality

howto: 200tdi injector refurb

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