How to test electric window switch and motor?

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E

estefano

New Member
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5
Hi,

Recently my front driver window on 2005 TD4 Freelander stopped openning. I thought that the issue is with the snapped cables in the window mechanism, but whenever the switch is used there is no clicking noise from solenoid in the fuse box (I get the clicking when openning or closing other windows) so it looks like it's something electrical (checked all the fuses already).

I don't have a way of getting a spare switch for testing so is there a way of checking is the switch faulty? Also can I test the motor and mechanism by applying volage directly on the motor?

Thanks for help!
 
Swap the switch with the switch from your passenger window. If the window works you have a faulty switch, if it doesn't you have a motor, mechanism or wiring fault. Hope this helps.
 
Hi,

Tried that, but the plugs do not fit, as it is a 6 switch assembly on the driver side and 2 switches on passanger side.

This is the assembly like mine:
$T2eC16VHJHYFFkP1fOBJBRcSrmIPuw~~60_58.JPG


Thanks for reply anyway :)
 
See what you mean. Having looked at your switch assembly, it looks like you should be able to operate the passenger window from the drivers door and from the passenger door. Does it operate from either of these switches? If the answer is yes, then it would appear to be the switch, if no it's the wiring, motor or mechanism. If you have a multi meter you could check the switch on the resistance or ohms range. Good luck.
 
Actually the driver door can be only controlled from the driver side. All other switches work fine on the drivers side, apart from the drivers window. Is there a way of connecting 12V directly to the motor to check is the mechanism functioning or override the switch by hot wiring the connector?
 
Sorry, I got muddled about which window wasn't working. I wouldn't recommend trying to apply 12v without a wiring diagram. If you touch the wrong wire it could melt the wiring loom or even start a fire. Get yourself a multimeter and test the switch directly. As you have the assembly out, you should be able to connect the meter across the switch, put it to the 'ohms' range and see the meter react when you operate the switch. Safety first.
 
I was doing so more testing and it looks that the window started working when the doors are closed :0 and is stopping to work when the doors are opened, have a look at the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZ9KhkkPhds

Also sometimes they stop to work if the doors are slammed harder, but then again if I open and close one more time it starts working. Any idea where is the fault? I tried fiddling with the cables that goes from the door to the inside of the card, but that don't seem to make a difference.
 
Looks like a dodgey connection.

Or possibly a brake in the cable loom as it passes through the rubber gator where the door hinges.

Crack out the multi meter and start testing things.
 
Thanks! That was it, one of the cables was broken, have it fixed now :) Luckily it wasn't the switch as I was unable to source one locally :)
 
could have started a fire this cheap rubbish wiring from china it is about time LR got it right that's why Rist Wire and Cables went out of business .because of cheap import when they were making them for the car industry they never had all this trouble.
 
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