Freelander 1 How to replace the rear diff drive shaft seal?

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rob_bell

rob_bell

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Hi Guys,

I was under my Hippo replacing the exhaust when I noticed that the offside rear diff oil seal is leaking (damp patch)

1D119D4A-FB1A-4116-8379-6D97F47D4A2B.jpeg


I've found some instructions from the workshop manual, but just wondered whether anyone has practical experience that they can share? Luckily it doesn't involve dropping the rear subframe, but it would look like I'll have to make a drive shaft splitting tool... :)
 
Getting good at taking halfshafts out!! Plenty of practice. You will have to remove hub and the long bolt may be a bugger but when you've done that use a bolster chisel and a piece of aluminium packing a few mm thick between chisel and diff. One smart wack sideways on chisel while halfshaft is level and the thing pops out easily. To replace I use a drift of timber on the boot flange and tap it in having cleaned and greased the splines.
 
did this myself a few months ago, no real problems, just make sure you get new bolts/nuts for the suspension arm, it is necessary to remove it to get to oil seal, as a matter of interest I didn't have to remove the hub, just removed bolts on suspension arms and swung it out of the way, the top of the drive shaft popped out with the help of a couple of hefty screwdrivers, replaced oil seal, carefully set driveshaft back in making sure I didn't nick the oil seal. job done.
 
By the looks of things, that's pretty much what the Workshop manual recommends Snaggapuss. Potentially not too difficult - but just wondering why you replaced the bolts? I'd imagine you should be able to re-use them if not damaged?
 
rob_bell said:
By the looks of things, that's pretty much what the Workshop manual recommends Snaggapuss. Potentially not too difficult - but just wondering why you replaced the bolts? I'd imagine you should be able to re-use them if not damaged?
Click to expand...
Those bolts are often RTB - rusted to buggery.
 
A drive shaft seal should be less than 2 hours work, providing everything comes apart easy. In my experience, it's less hassle to unbolt the inboard lower link bolts. This allows the whole lower assembly to be pushed out enough to get the shaft out the diff.
 
Thanks!

BTW I gather that the seal is TOC100000 (did you use OEM or aftermarket? Big price differential on Rimmer Bros website), but did you replace the circlip at the end of the drive shaft? I'm having a devil of a job trying to work out the part number for this so I can order the correct one!!!
 
I think that everywhere says to replace the circlip, but when I removed and replaced my IRD, I didn't touch it - just reused it (on front drive shaft obviously). Been OK for 4 years.

I just checked the prices for those seals on LRDirect (prices in NZD) - they have 4 after market options ranging from $3.47 to $5.42.... and then the LR one at $74.81! What a joke for a bit of rubber!
 
rob_bell said:
BTW I gather that the seal is TOC100000 (did you use OEM or aftermarket? Big price differential on Rimmer Bros website),
Click to expand...
OEM for me.;)
rob_bell said:
but did you replace the circlip at the end of the drive shaft? I'm having a devil of a job trying to work out the part number for this so I can order the correct one!
Click to expand...
I've never replaced the C clip on any drive shaft I've taken out. The original will be just fine, so there's no need to mess with it.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I think that everywhere says to replace the circlip, but when I removed and replaced my IRD, I didn't touch it - just reused it (on front drive shaft obviously). Been OK for 4 years.

I just checked the prices for those seals on LRDirect (prices in NZD) - they have 4 after market options ranging from $3.47 to $5.42.... and then the LR one at $74.81! What a joke for a bit of rubber!
Click to expand...

I know - it's a ridiculous spread of prices! But my experience with many aftermarket parts has not been universally a happy one, but one would hope that a respected retailer like Rimmers wouldn't sell duff stuff...

Nodge68 said:
OEM for me.;)
I've never replaced the C clip on any drive shaft I've taken out. The original will be just fine, so there's no need to mess with it.
Click to expand...

... but might just go OEM for peace of mind!

Thanks both - I'll leave the C-clip well alone :)
 
rob_bell said:
I know - it's a ridiculous spread of prices!
Click to expand...
They are very variable. The cheapest I've found is just over £2 plus shipping.
rob_bell said:
but might just go OEM for peace of mind!
Click to expand...
As it's only a few quid for the cheapest, I'd probably go with that, rather then spent 10 times as much on an original. You're unlikely to go though 10 cheap ones, in the same period as 1 LR jobby.
 
rob_bell said:
Go for a good aftermarket? Okay - will place the order :)
Click to expand...

I don't expect many manufacturers actually make the seal. So the price variations are likely down to greedy resellers, or small quantity resellers.

Me, I'd go with the cheap one and see how it goes.;)
 
rob_bell said:
By the looks of things, that's pretty much what the Workshop manual recommends Snaggapuss. Potentially not too difficult - but just wondering why you replaced the bolts? I'd imagine you should be able to re-use them if not damaged?
Click to expand...
It was just that when I did mine I couldn't get the bolts out on the first try, like guineafowl21 said they were rtb so had to wait for new bolts and washers and nuts to come, eventually had to cut them out, press out the bushes and replace them.
 
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