How to recondition a VCU yourself.

try looking in the CFAQ section and search for freelander

The Mad Hat Man said:

try looking in the CFAQ section and search for freelander

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Thanks, dude. I appreciate your help.

PopRivet said:

I have a request, in relation to a Freelander's VCU.
Can anyone offer us a picture/photo or a detailed sketch of the VCU's innards and its structure? That would be extremely helpful in determining the best and most efficient method of gaining an entry into its guts.
For instance, can the outer rim be drilled through for access and the removal of the suspect liquid?

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GKN's Technical sheet enclosed:

jonaf said:

GKN's Technical sheet enclosed:

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and yu wonder why i get p1ssed orf . Did you bother to read post #133 on this thread? if you dont even read this thread, whats the purpose of posting any where else .?

jonaf said:

GKN's Technical sheet enclosed:

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That particular GKN explanation of the hump mode is the simplest clearest explanation I have seen - thankyou

dfossil said:

That particular GKN explanation of the hump mode is the simplest clearest explanation I have seen - thankyou

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but ITS THE SAME AS I HAD PREVIOUSLY POSTED!!!!!!

dfossil said:

That particular GKN explanation of the hump mode is the simplest clearest explanation I have seen - thankyou

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To make the VCU work properly the need for a correct filling grade is vital when it comes to obtaining hump mode when the shafts rotate at different speeds.
My method is to pump fluid into the VCU until it becomes solid and then let some out until an acceptable OWUT result can be obtained.

The Mad Hat Man said:

but ITS THE SAME AS I HAD PREVIOUSLY POSTED!!!!!!

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So equally thanks to you too - it is a short clear and factual description - I - like others - have followed a fair bit of these threads but don't pretend to have exhaustedly followed every one - particularly when they get flamed or the less informed blowhards join in
It's the first time I read that particular one - OK - My bad - good stuff like that from you and others is helpful - but I don't think on an informal platform like this any one person will be the only one to try to help others on a particular subject and there will always be overlaps - chill - and keep the good stuff coming.

dfossil said:

chill - and keep the good stuff coming.

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why - when yu cant be arsed to read it?

The Mad Hat Man said:

..

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You're right. I hadn't read it, but will now. Thanks.
And it isn't that I chose to ignore what you included, it's just that there has been so much written about this subject that I missed it.
To read everything in detail would probably mean doing it for the rest of the year - at least.
But it's great to learn that so many have contributed to our understanding of this VCU problem, yourself included.

I carried out the 1.2 metre / 5Kg test today, many, many times to get a good average score. The average was 35 seconds for the 45 Deg rotation.
My car is making the rubber-squeaking noise & slowing when turned at full lock, both directions, so I'm assuming the 35 sec's must be a fail.
Having read and considered a lot of test-results carried out & determined by others, the 35 sec's may not be as bad as I expected, but was still enough to persuade me to do the following.
I have bought all the parts I need from Ebay.uk having failed to locate anything in Spain. It's a desert here in many ways, it seems.

With the cost of P&P to Spain equating to the cost-price of most items I have had them dispatched to a family member's UK address instead. I will collect them when I visit in a couple of months time.
Until then, I'm removing the VCU, bearings & shafts. The drilling into the VCU housing to allow the drum to drain over a very lengthy period, accumulating & measuring all that pours out - but only after I weigh the entire VCU beforehand.
This will provide me with a 2WD car, which should be interesting. I will inform my insurance too, before anyone cares to mentions it.

The holes will be drilled to 13mm & tapped to 14mm 1.5 pitch. I have already purchased two sump-plugs to fit with copper-crush washers to suit.
So basically, I am allowing 3 months to drain & eventually flush the coupling, as long as the car handles well enough.

I've taken on-board the use of White-Spirit for flushing and have chosen to follow suit. I will complete the flushing action with alcohol, where any residue should be removed by this.
Again, the completion will take about 3 months from now and I will inform all to its success... or whatever, as it happens. I am quietly confident of a successful operation.

My sincere thanks go to all who have contributed their experiences and wisdom to helping me reach my decision on how to move forward.

And once my car is in 2WD mode, I will give a report on that too, in the hope it might assist others.
Once again, a big thanks to one-and-all.

PopRivet said:

I carried out the 1.2 metre / 5Kg test today, many, many times to get a good average score. The average was 35 seconds for the 45 Deg rotation.
My car is making the rubber-squeaking noise & slowing when turned at full lock, both directions, so I'm assuming the 35 sec's must be a fail.
Having read and considered a lot of test-results carried out & determined by others, the 35 sec's may not be as bad as I expected, but was still enough to persuade me to do the following.
I have bought all the parts I need from Ebay.uk having failed to locate anything in Spain. It's a desert here in many ways, it seems.

With the cost of P&P to Spain equating to the cost-price of most items I have had them dispatched to a family member's UK address instead. I will collect them when I visit in a couple of months time.
Until then, I'm removing the VCU, bearings & shafts. The drilling into the VCU housing to allow the drum to drain over a very lengthy period, accumulating & measuring all that pours out - but only after I weigh the entire VCU beforehand.
This will provide me with a 2WD car, which should be interesting. I will inform my insurance too, before anyone cares to mentions it.

The holes will be drilled to 13mm & tapped to 14mm 1.5 pitch. I have already purchased two sump-plugs to fit with copper-crush washers to suit.
So basically, I am allowing 3 months to drain & eventually flush the coupling, as long as the car handles well enough.

I've taken on-board the use of White-Spirit for flushing and have chosen to follow suit. I will complete the flushing action with alcohol, where any residue should be removed by this.
Again, the completion will take about 3 months from now and I will inform all to its success... or whatever, as it happens. I am quietly confident of a successful operation.

My sincere thanks go to all who have contributed their experiences and wisdom to helping me reach my decision on how to move forward.

And once my car is in 2WD mode, I will give a report on that too, in the hope it might assist others.
Once again, a big thanks to one-and-all.

View attachment 119692 View attachment 119693

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I'd have said 35 seconds is perdy darn good and would be looking for a 2nd hand VCU from a scrap yard to butcher. Keep the 35 second one for some day when you're doing a bit of off roading and want something a bit stiffer.
My last one took almost three minutes for the 1WU test.



Edit


You do realise your meant to use the 32mm centre nut for the 1WU test? Not a wheel nut.

Jeez... it does sound good. Thanks, I'll take your advice. Why wreck something that aint all that bad, eh?
Erm, yes I suppose I did know, but noticed others do the same in other YouTube videos so thought I would follow suit.
Which now makes me wonder if the results would be different. Hmmm.

I couldn't do the maths but I'd say yes, it would make a big difference.

I'll do it again tomorrow & let you know the results.
Thanks.
In point of fact, in retrospect, the way I did it the outer-rim effect would probably assist the wheel to turn, thus making the action quicker.
I'm off for a G&T to help me ponder the physics.

a couple of points...

1) always use the centre nut - using a wheel nut will affect results and make them appear better.
2) it is recommended to use pressure to force the old fluid out, but this can be dangerous.
3) isnt it an MOT?? failure in Spain not to be "as manufactured". bear this in mind.

Using a wheel nut is fine. However the bar length needs to be altered to keep the lever length 1.2M from the centre of the hub.

Nodge68 said:

Using a wheel nut is fine. However the bar length needs to be altered to keep the lever length 1.2M from the centre of the hub.

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Good point Nodge so long as you keep the wheel brace and wheel nut inline with the centre hub. Not sure what effect it would have if you used a bottom or top nut.
Maybe less than I thought.

Alibro said:

Good point Nodge so long as you keep the wheel brace and wheel nut inline with the centre hub. Not sure what effect it would have if you used a bottom or top nut.
Maybe less than I thought.

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Yeh, so long as the bar is in line to the hub nut, the wheel nut will be starting the test at 1:30 (45 degres from upright) and presumably its exactly the same as attaching to the hub nut - so long as the bar is shortened by the relevant amount.

It may be possible to use the wheel nut... but yer need to consider the possibility of someone else copying the idea with a heavier weight and not realising the force they're applying is far greater than the nut/thread can take. Sadly this has been done and said weight hit the ground when the wheel nut's thread snapped. Best to point peeps in the direction of using the centre nut.

edit: when I said thread I meant wheel stud.