Rich in Vancouver
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The V6 VCU does have a different part number and at least in pictures appears larger than the 4 cyl version so that may be worth keeping in mind re: volume.
How to recondition a VCU yourself.
- Thread starter Alibro
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Alibro
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Never seen a V6 one in the flesh so can't comment about they're size but your right about the part number. I thought that was because they don't have a damper.
Could be wrong.
Often am according to SWMBO.
Never seen a V6 one in the flesh so can't comment about they're size but your right about the part number. I thought that was because they don't have a damper.
Could be wrong.
Often am according to SWMBO.
I think the V6 VCU is identical to the 4 cylinder VCU, minus the 3 mounting holes for the damper.
I'm working on a V6 on Sunday. I'll do a quick measure up, just to satisfy myself that they are the same.
Rich in Vancouver
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That would be interesting, Less 3 Holes- Plus Four Hundred and Fifty Quid.
I would hope it's not that simple!
I would hope it's not that simple!
Alibro
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Is the shaft the same length as the four pot ones Nodge? If so then there's probably no reason to ever spend extra for the V6 version.
The distance between the bearings is the same. That is dictated by the chassis the bearings mount to.
Rich in Vancouver
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It seems too easy that the two units would be basically the same in spite of having different part numbers and a massive price difference.
I know these things often don't make sense but it does leave me wondering why.
On one hand I wonder, like Nodge does what detail differences there may be, possibly to allow for the greater power output of the V6. Differences in the discs? the fluid?
On the other hand being an MGF owner I have seen the advantage of comparing prices between parts from Land Rover and MGRover. They are often the same parts in different packaging with differing prices..
I would think the only way to detail any differences between the two units would be to dissect one of each and carefully measure the internal parts.
Fortunately this won't be something that I will ever do because as soon as I get my Hippo running again the rotten thing will be up for sale.
I know these things often don't make sense but it does leave me wondering why.
On one hand I wonder, like Nodge does what detail differences there may be, possibly to allow for the greater power output of the V6. Differences in the discs? the fluid?
On the other hand being an MGF owner I have seen the advantage of comparing prices between parts from Land Rover and MGRover. They are often the same parts in different packaging with differing prices..
I would think the only way to detail any differences between the two units would be to dissect one of each and carefully measure the internal parts.
Fortunately this won't be something that I will ever do because as soon as I get my Hippo running again the rotten thing will be up for sale.
Alibro
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Makes you wonder if a refurb shop like Bells would do anything different to them. Call me cynical but I suspect they would refurb them in exactly the same way as a 4 pot unit.It seems too easy that the two units would be basically the same in spite of having different part numbers and a massive price difference.
I know these things often don't make sense but it does leave me wondering why.
On one hand I wonder, like Nodge does what detail differences there may be, possibly to allow for the greater power output of the V6. Differences in the discs? the fluid?
On the other hand being an MGF owner I have seen the advantage of comparing prices between parts from Land Rover and MGRover. They are often the same parts in different packaging with differing prices..
I would think the only way to detail any differences between the two units would be to dissect one of each and carefully measure the internal parts.
Fortunately this won't be something that I will ever do because as soon as I get my Hippo running again the rotten thing will be up for sale.
I know I would.
Rich in Vancouver
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But what does Bells do in the way of a refurb? Is it just a drain and fill or do they open them up, inspect the plates and recondition them somehow?
For us here in the colonies it's a moot point as no-one here refurbs them anyway.
For us here in the colonies it's a moot point as no-one here refurbs them anyway.
Madmustang
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That my young padawan is what we are all trying to find out
Alibro
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The proper way is to cut the end of, take the disks out and clean the gunk off, put them back in, weld the top on and refill with the correct fluid, then seal up the fill hole. The disks don't wear from what I've seen so no need to worry about them
Rich in Vancouver
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That makes me wonder how many poor suckers have scrapped their Freelander or bought new $1000.+ VCUs not knowing that a couple of plugs, a gallon of solvent and 20 bucks worth of fluid would put their unit back into action.
Alibro
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The car would only be scrapped if the drive train has detonated so uneconomical to repair but lots of peeps spending hundreds on new or recon VCU's when they could do it themselves.
Maybe a nice wee sidline for you Rich.
andyfreelandy
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I have another thread about tyre wear, but on the basis that I was being shouted at to take the VCU off and I planned to do it 'when I got around to it' - I forced myself to do another one wheel up test and then remove it.
Here's the thing - was at 1 min 55 sec (1M and 5kg) and since covering only another 1,000 miles the tyre wear has arrived and it now measures at 2 min 30 sec. Accepting that I may be a few degrees or seconds out with my measurements, that is a 25% increase in time over 1,000 miles ! I'm seeing an exponential type degradation from here in.
The VCU is now off and car feels like it is human again - you know what I mean. Rolls back on full lock etc.
Also - we had a debate about turns at the wheel and turns at the prop. Checked this out today and as diff ratio is 2.97:1 (let's call it 3:1) it is not 3 turns per rotation of the wheel as i initially thought. Neither is it 6 turns as only one wheel is off the ground as some suggested. It is 1 turn of wheel to 1.5 turns of the propshaft with one wheel in the air. So I am thinking, and will test out, that a VCU with 150 secs on the car should be 100 seconds with the VCU on the bench?!!?
Have another VCU drilled, tapped M20 and with a solvent pump, 2 screw in M20 pipe unions I am going to fill and pressure flush the remainder of gunk whilst changing the angle and rotating the VCU. Then let the solvent dry out and fill with 100,000 ctu silicone (150ml) and have 10mm deep M20 sump plugs to seal it all off with copper washers.
Will report back when tested and fitted to car.
Thanks for encouragement to save a near-certain IRD death. So we know at 7 mins it smashes the IRD output and at 2.5 minutes it wears the tyres into a scone cutter profile. Probs need to be taking action at 1 min 30 secs to be safe and VCU removal at 2 mins which appears to be an absolute limit (if it degrades exponentially from there then there is NO margin for allowing it to exceed this). Standard timing is around 30 secs - again all with 1m bar and 5kg applied.
Views??
Here's the thing - was at 1 min 55 sec (1M and 5kg) and since covering only another 1,000 miles the tyre wear has arrived and it now measures at 2 min 30 sec. Accepting that I may be a few degrees or seconds out with my measurements, that is a 25% increase in time over 1,000 miles ! I'm seeing an exponential type degradation from here in.
The VCU is now off and car feels like it is human again - you know what I mean. Rolls back on full lock etc.
Also - we had a debate about turns at the wheel and turns at the prop. Checked this out today and as diff ratio is 2.97:1 (let's call it 3:1) it is not 3 turns per rotation of the wheel as i initially thought. Neither is it 6 turns as only one wheel is off the ground as some suggested. It is 1 turn of wheel to 1.5 turns of the propshaft with one wheel in the air. So I am thinking, and will test out, that a VCU with 150 secs on the car should be 100 seconds with the VCU on the bench?!!?
Have another VCU drilled, tapped M20 and with a solvent pump, 2 screw in M20 pipe unions I am going to fill and pressure flush the remainder of gunk whilst changing the angle and rotating the VCU. Then let the solvent dry out and fill with 100,000 ctu silicone (150ml) and have 10mm deep M20 sump plugs to seal it all off with copper washers.
Will report back when tested and fitted to car.
Thanks for encouragement to save a near-certain IRD death. So we know at 7 mins it smashes the IRD output and at 2.5 minutes it wears the tyres into a scone cutter profile. Probs need to be taking action at 1 min 30 secs to be safe and VCU removal at 2 mins which appears to be an absolute limit (if it degrades exponentially from there then there is NO margin for allowing it to exceed this). Standard timing is around 30 secs - again all with 1m bar and 5kg applied.
Views??
Alibro
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I normally use a 1.2m bar so can't really compare the timings.
I might be wrong but I feel if you can turn the wheel with a normal 1/2" ratchet without having to stand on it then it probably isn't too bad. My first Freelander I couldn't make it budge so took the prop shaft off immediately and unfortunately never got proper timings until after refitting the refurbed VCU.
Rich in Vancouver
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It's a different situation here. Freelanders are just about extinct here. V6 Freelanders are considered specialty vehicles and are being scrapped for minor reasons, cam belts, VCUs etc. There are few independent shops to work on them and as they have a reputation for grenading engines and no-one wants to touch them. We do have Land-Rover dealers but they only want to sell new $100,000.+ Range Rovers and do the warranty work. They know nothing about Freelanders and could care less. Even the Land-Rover clubs despise them.The car would only be scrapped if the drive train has detonated so uneconomical to repair but lots of peeps spending hundreds on new or recon VCU's when they could do it themselves.
Maybe a nice wee sidline for you Rich.
And....I really don't want any sidelines!
Alibro
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To be honest I don't like my Freelander because it is a good car. There are waaaaaaay to many faults, weaknesses and just poor build quality issues with them for anyone to call them a good car.
I just like it because......... errrrr,
Not really sure why but I do.
GrumpyGel
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Funny init - cos I've found mine to be a great car - and bits hardly ever wrong on it!To be honest I don't like my Freelander because it is a good car. There are waaaaaaay to many faults, weaknesses and just poor build quality issues with them for anyone to call them a good car.
I just like it because......... errrrr,
Not really sure why but I do.
I have to say though, the trip we've just done really shows how little power the L Series generates. Admittedly there were 5 of us in the car - but on the SH1 hills going into Dunners it was crawling in 3rd gear - not sure if I needed 2nd on those ones - but it would have been very close.
